LandCruiser axle compared to Dana 60s

Reid

Reid

Hasnt Seen Dirt in Years
Joined
Dec 30, 2005
Location
Winston Salem
Not that i would be swapping any time soon. But i was wondering how they compared strength wise. I see alot of guys on IH8Mud.com running 38's on stock axles. I figured this was a better place to ask....no bias towards FJ axles.
 
If it was me, I would build your yota axles with all the usuall stuff, Longfields, hub studs, drive flanges, etc etc. But If you want to run tires over 39's, I still think a properly built yota axle will hold up, but even though I am a die hard yota man, I would weigh the cost difference between all the upgrades your cruise axles would need to hold up verses the cost of building a Dana 60. Personally if it was me I would stick with tires 39 inchs or smaller and build your yota axles. Just my opinion. Hope it helps.
Jon
 
thanks for the input. I dont ever really plan on running anything over 38-39"s. Infact, i dont plan on using anything but my toy axles. I just didnt know how they compared and wasnt sure how hard i should be wheeling them. In stock for or not. If i ever did an axle upgrade it would be for rockwells.

So far i am happy with my stock axles. just need a rebuild.
 
Your stock axles will hold 36's all day long. Just don't turn all of the way to lock and romp the skinny pedal if your locked in the front. A set of LONGFIELDS will make it stronger than a D60. Your rear axle shafts will hold 38-40's all day long stock.
 
BigRedB2 said:
thanks for the input. I dont ever really plan on running anything over 38-39"s. Infact, i dont plan on using anything but my toy axles..
Click to expand...

Yeah, that's what I said too...


and no, rear FJ shafts will NOT hold 38's-40's.. especially on a heavy pig like a 62. Minitruck shafts might.. but the cruiser shafts are quite a bit different.
 
Rich said:
Yeah, that's what I said too...


and no, rear FJ shafts will NOT hold 38's-40's.. especially on a heavy pig like a 62. Minitruck shafts might.. but the cruiser shafts are quite a bit different.
Click to expand...
Really? I thought cruiser shafts would be better because they are still 30 spline but they are full floaters. What makes you think that cruiser shafts aren't as good?

As for holding up, I run 37" tires and my longfields have been amazing but the rest of the axle has been suspect. I've had to buy ARP studs for the wheelhub after all of them sheared off. I've broken two front low pinion R&Ps and one 8" rear R&P. I broke an IFS rear axle and I put a really slight twist in an FJ80 rear alxe. That really slight twist seems to be the reason the e-locker didn't engage/disengage well.

I haven't given up on my toy axles yet. I'm hoping the FJ80 rear with cromo shafts and FJ80 front with a hi-pinion R&P will do the trick but so far I've been breaking stuff too regularly. I think part of the reason that toy axles have their legendary reputation is that they are normally pushed by 22Rs. If dana 44s would normally pushed by sub 100 horsepower motors they would probably have a better reputation too. Having said that, I'm always amazed at where those solid axle toyotas can go. On the last ncttora trip I heard a bunch of guys walked pull cable like it was an easy trail. You can't argue with results.
 
vanguard said:
Really? I thought cruiser shafts would be better because they are still 30 spline but they are full floaters. What makes you think that cruiser shafts aren't as good?
Click to expand...

We're talking FJ62 here.. the axle shaft has a horrible taper, and is really thick all the way to the splines and then suddenly tapers down.. they break there.

In our applications, FF vs. semi-float can be debated all day long, but they're not that much stronger, i.e. I'd take a SF35 spline over a FF30 any day. The shafts can be made better for twisting in the FF applications, but in practice, they aren't very much so, from what I've seen.
 
Never really thought of the taper that way. The shafts on my FJ-40 rear axle are HUGE, until they get down to the splines and it is pretty small there. Toyota had a good thing going and cut it down to nothing at the end...

I guess what makes the mini-truck shafts better is they will twist more over the full length of the shaft. The LC shafts only twist in the small section at the splines making them break. Kind of dumb for Toy to upgrade the R+P to larger stuff, make huge axleshafts, then make the splines on the shafts the same size as the mini-trucks. I guess they didn't plan for hardcore rockcrawling though.
 
Guess i could have been more clear.


but, on the other hand, it is good to know that i can swap to the 80 FF axle (even though its coil sprung) and gain some strength
 
vanguard said:
On the last ncttora trip I heard a bunch of guys walked pull cable like it was an easy trail
Click to expand...

No vids = it did NOT happen! :flipoff2:

Now to complete the hijack, where's the "break" on strength among the Toy ratios? For instance, I hear folks say that going above say 4.56 in a D44 reduces contact surface (fewer pinion teeth) and strength decreases drastically over a set of 4.27...
 
Rich said:
We're talking FJ62 here.. the axle shaft has a horrible taper, and is really thick all the way to the splines and then suddenly tapers down.. they break there.

In our applications, FF vs. semi-float can be debated all day long, but they're not that much stronger, i.e. I'd take a SF35 spline over a FF30 any day. The shafts can be made better for twisting in the FF applications, but in practice, they aren't very much so, from what I've seen.
Click to expand...
Gotcha, to tell the truth I still don't fully understand the metallurgy and stress flow as it applies to a few different sections of our sport. I read billavista's axle shaft tech article but I could use a few more readings before I really get it.

This pic seems easy to understand but the "stress flow theory" behind it only partly makes sense to me so far.

apirate4x4.com_tech_billavista_PR_BV60_Materials_cs6.jpg


The rest of the article starts here just in case people are interested in this stuff.
http://pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-BV60/index1a.html
 
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