Lb7 duramax injectors

99tjsahara

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 12, 2010
Location
Rock Hill,SC
Anybody changed the injectors themselves without taking the truck to a shop. I'm about to get dome reman injectors for my tow rig and just wanted some pointers or a hand lol.
 
get ALL the injector seals and return line seals, don't try to reuse the old, (8 injector to return line, 2 return line to head seals, the chance for an internal leak is too great )

DRAIN the coolant before you pull any injectors, if you pull an injector cup you run the risk of filling up a cyl with coolant ( not good )

get a couple injector cup seals, you'll more than likely pull at least one ( red silicone rubber O ring seals , 2 per cup ) you'll also need some anerobic sealer for the cup to head seat.

I've got the GM tool to pull the LB7 injectors that I will sell ( $70 ) it can be done with out the tool, but it's so much easier with it ( and you don't risk messing up anything else ( the tool new sells for $90 ) if you've go some miles on the truck, more than likely there will be some carbon build up on the injector tip, which makes it harder to pull ( and more likely to pull cup and injector as a unit )

5mm ball end allen socket is your best friend on this job for the valve cover ( upper and lower ) bolts.
17MM wrench for the FICM cooler lines and injector lines,
8mm socket for the injector power wires ( be very careful tightening these, they are soft copper threads on the injector, and break easily )
10mm allen socket for the injector hold down yokes. 10mm socket for fuel return line to head bolts,

10 and 12mm for most of the junk covering valve covers and the air bleed in T-stat housing.

fuel line disconnect tool ( 2 sizes )

been 6yrs since I did an injector swap on an LB7, I'm sure I'm missing a few details
 
BLKVOODOO. you sir need to come to my garage and oversee the process lol. Yeah I bought all the seals and everything.
 
if you weren't 4 hours away I'd be inclined to be be there.

keep in mind, you're going to be down at least a day, possibly 2 depending how through and methodical you are. ( clean is good )

It's not hard, but it is easy to miss a step.

I was doing one a day for awhile ( warranty ) it got old after a few months, I was shooting for reliability not speed, 8hrs was a good turn around for me, any faster I had a tendency to miss something.

there is a copper washer under each injector in the cup, be sure to remove the old and install a new one when setting injector

I had a few come in where whoever attempted either doubled up on the washers or omitted one, the truck runs like ass and smokes like hell.

try not to have too much fun !!
 
i replaced one of mine. not very hard if your mechanically inclined. It can be done much faster than everyone says it takes though. I'm an aircraft mechanic though.

lincolndiesel is where i got mine. Had decent reviews and a pretty cheap price.
 
While I have no tech to add, I've seen a guy in our shop do it on his truck and I bet you learn new ways to string curse words together.
 
thats true. GM hooked me up by stripping 3/4 of the upper valve cover bolts when they were replaced the first time. Thanks GM.
 
I bought all the seals and washers and valve cover gaskets. I'll be starting on this Friday after work when the truck cools off. I probably won't be fringe any cold beer with this adventure lol
 
We always order fresh valve cover bolts and return line banjo bolts. DO NOT skimp on the injector lines, if they show any signs of corrosion replace or bead blast them. A cruddy line can knock large enough particles into the injector upon install to erode the ball and seat mechanism and cause a high return

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