Leaking freeze plug in a TJ 4.0

hscrugby

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2005
Location
Raleigh, NC
OK, the back "freeze plug" (I'm fairly sure that's what it's called?) has decided it really doesn't want to hold coolant anymore. It leaked a little once before, I stuck some stop leak in it, cause I was lazy, and not near home.
It held for almost a year.

Anyone on here ever replace one of these stupid little things?
The round indentures that look like a tin cap or something. $2.50 part or so, that according to most places is going to require me to drop at least the transmission, maybe more.
It's the one facing the firewall, at the back of the block.

Any hints or tips? Is there a special tool for getting these things in and out?

Thanks for any help/advice. I'll try and stick a picture up later tonight of what I'm talking about.
 
Screwdriver to get it out, hammer to get it in. They're easy to do, just usually a bitch to get to. (As you know by pulling the trans.)
 
Ill peplace for it for $275 if you want bring it to me. Otherwise yank tranny knock it out drive it back in with installer or a socket. I usually put hightack on them as well.
 
Cperry said:
Ill peplace for it for $275 if you want bring it to me. Otherwise yank tranny knock it out drive it back in with installer or a socket. I usually put hightack on them as well.
Click to expand...

Where in Durham are you?

And when can you do it?
If it's not to far, I'm tempted. If it is, well I can't drive it far. :(
might be able to talk my neighbor into towing it over there. (Can use it as an excuse to get his tractor off, so I can borrow that to dig a ditch. :D yea, I'm that neighbor that wants to borrow all his cool toys.)

So what other seals should I be replacing when doing this?
Dealership said you had to take the head completely off to get to it? (NFC about that one? wouldn't that be harder? and more trouble?)

Thanks for the advice so far.

*Currently cursing profusely at the damn jeep*
Of course I could just drive it with no coolant, blow the shit out of it, then drop a 350 in it. :bounce:
Unless my wife reads this, then I'd get beaten.
 
ai2.photobucket.com_albums_y24_SPyKOSshow_100_0611.jpg


Is the one on top the one you're talking about? Yeah, thats a major pain to change.
 
OK, so I got the transmission out, etc etc.
I can "basically" get to the #(@@#(* thing, but I still can't get it to go just past flush into the block.
Anyone ever used the "rubber" plugs for these?
I'd have to imagine they are easier to get into the engine than the normal metal ones?

Or if I loosen the motor mounts, would it cause any additional problems "pivoting" the engine more? (assuming everything has enough play hoses, cables etc etc)
 
Never seen the rubber ones before. I just put new metal ones in my Mustang motor. Used a socket and they went right in. Probably not much room for a socket and BFH to fit.
 
Nah, no room at all.
if you look at spykossshow's pic up above,
you can see the 2 that are behind the bellhousing etc.
It's the one above those.
that you can kind of half way see.
:(
Maybe with the engine mounts loosened, I can angle it enough to get to those.
I really don't want to have to pull the engine out.

I hate cars.
 
Correct term is expansion plug. But we all know here in the south, we call them freeze plugs. As stated above the one(s) in the bell housing area are hardest to get to. If it has pushed out just replace. If it has corroded, you had best check them all, since all about the same thickness, and all made of the same material, usually steel. IF you can get enough room to drive the new one straight in, then it's no big issue. If not a little more complicated. Snap on makes a tool kit for installing them at an angle. Maybe auto Zone or Advance has a similar kit to install. And yes use a sealer. Just swab a little on the block( seal surface, and drive in the new one. Make sure it goes in square, not cocked at all. You don't want to use one of the rubber ones. Rubber ones are just a temp fix. Old antifreeze that has broken down and become an acid is usually the cause. After install a good flush is recommended. There is a drain plug on the side of your block( I think) to aid in getting all the old fluid out. Flushing may also produce more leaks since you have put stop leak in it. May as well make sure you don't have any more leaks while you are at it. Easier to fix while at home than it is out on the trail.
 
Might be able to loosen the body mounts and raise the body up for more room. As if you were going to add a body lift. I see which one you are talking about now that I looked closer.
 
upnover said:
Correct term is expansion plug. But we all know here in the south, we call them freeze plugs. As stated above the one(s) in the bell housing area are hardest to get to. If it has pushed out just replace. If it has corroded, you had best check them all, since all about the same thickness, and all made of the same material, usually steel. IF you can get enough room to drive the new one straight in, then it's no big issue. If not a little more complicated. Snap on makes a tool kit for installing them at an angle. Maybe auto Zone or Advance has a similar kit to install. And yes use a sealer. Just swab a little on the block( seal surface, and drive in the new one. Make sure it goes in square, not cocked at all. You don't want to use one of the rubber ones. Rubber ones are just a temp fix. Old antifreeze that has broken down and become an acid is usually the cause. After install a good flush is recommended. There is a drain plug on the side of your block( I think) to aid in getting all the old fluid out. Flushing may also produce more leaks since you have put stop leak in it. May as well make sure you don't have any more leaks while you are at it. Easier to fix while at home than it is out on the trail.
Click to expand...
So what you're saying is wait till I go out on a trail ride with you, and you'll help me fix them all?:bounce:

For some reason I foresee a large breaker bar upside my head.
It was corroded, and I need to do a proper coolant flush.
the 5-9 gallons of coolant through it on the way home, isn't exactly the same thing. :D

Maybe I can talk the wife into this being when I do the 1" BL and MML anyway?
since I have everything out.
hehe
doubt it though. She's already confused enough by how it's saving money versus the dealership doing it when I go out and buy random tools every time I need to fix something.
 
hscrugby said:
She's already confused enough by how it's saving money versus the dealership doing it when I go out and buy random tools every time I need to fix something.
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Just show her what the dealer charges per hour. That will definitely change her mind and have her add up your hours trying to get it done. My wife now understands after 14 years.
 
family xj said:
Just show her what the dealer charges per hour. That will definitely change her mind and have her add up your hours trying to get it done. My wife now understands after 14 years.
Click to expand...
hehe
of course I did get it all put back together, went to hook the last things up, (wires, speedo, etc,) and then reattach the tcase linkage, realized OOPS.
That bundle of wires was loose because I forgot to attach my breather hose that ran up the firewall, so that and the whole bundle was sitting on the exhaust. :rolleyes:
Have to take the shifter off again.

But, going for the truly ghetto "block" lift, (sticking a 2x4 under the body) made it MUCH easier to pop the plug in.
Gave me a clear shot, and no worries.
So I finally found the reason people run 3" body lifts on TJs.
Ermm, maybe not.


Now tomorrow to just take the shifter back off, run the wires where they belong, buy a bolt for the front driveshaft to replace the one I rounded off, (see, thinking ahead to next time I have to take it off) and I should be able to drive myself to work on Wednesday.
Which is good, since in the Jeep, I go speed limit or so. In the wife's TT, ermm, :burnout:
 
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