Lean-to construction

We had a 16" auger available so that's what I used. The main reason I had it engineered was I wanted a 17' span between posts. (required a triple 2x12 Girder) Roof size is 22x22 with 4 posts.
Plus I have a good relationship through work so he did it for a minimal fee.
Top of the post above grade is 10' 6" at the highest point. Depth probably has some formula but I don't remember.
I don't see your posts coming out of the concrete.
 
jeepinmatt said:
I'm assuming @No fries patio roof was either attached to the house, or had enough structure up top to assist with racking (parallelogram effect). Same reason a standard house doesn't need any embedded framing, the structure is self supporting for sideloads. On a simple shed, there is basically no structure to handle such loads, so it all transmits to the posts, and the posts control that load in a cantilever fashion (basically bending and trying to break it off and ground level. With 18-24" of concrete embedment, you have sufficient depth to control the cantilever loads, and that depth also provides enough friction and binding on the concrete so that uplift is not a concern.
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It is free standing other than the flashing so we don't get water between the house and roof. When we were framing my roof it was a bit concerning to walk on until all the plywood was nailed down. It really stiffened it up once we had. Helps with shear in plane.
 
So this weekend has been filled. Work up at Historic Camden on Saturday morning. After that came home ate hooked up the trailer and went and got a wood lathe. Since the trailer was backed in the shop I went ahead and added the second winch point on the tilt deck. Today I spent all day doing electrical for the kitchen update so the guy can start putting up the rock boards for the tile. After I cut the grass I put the rear headers together and set them in the post. Man I’m tired.
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Ok so things are where I could check levels this morning. All post were set to 2’ so the header sitting on top would be 6’. I made another mistake. I didn’t check or level the site. Ops. So one post is 3” below the tallest and the other is 7”. FML. I’m definitely not Glenn the Builder… Nothing is permanent atm but I’m toying with two 2x6’s stacked and screwed into the top of one post and a 7” section on 6x6 I cut off a 12’ post to make it 10’. I know I should cut the tops of the post but I really don’t want to loose that height.

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Still mulling over my mistake and a way to tie the 7” extension to the post. So today I did the front header. Far post is notched about 6” after I cut 2” off the top. Middle post is notched about an inch.
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Going to go forward with the 2x'6 screwed to the middle post and I will cut a new 6x6 extension 2.5" long and notch it. I'll notch the post to match and screw them together. I will then put a 3/4" hole and dowel or peg in to secure them vertically. I think this is the best way to do it. Thoughts?
 
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So remember when I said I wasn’t “Glenn the Builder?” So my cut was not too great. Used some PL3 construction adhesive and clamped and shimmed it to a somewhat good position. Put header to post tie ins on today. Tomorrow once I get the short post screwed and pegged I’ll start on cross braces from front to back with 2x6’s and purloins. Eventually I’m add rough sawn boards as siding.

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I am not a carpenter either, but screws in the end grain of a board have proven worthless, in my experience. I would likely want to build a larger version of the bracket, that extends down to the actual post.
 
paradisePWoffrd said:
I am not a carpenter either, but screws in the end grain of a board have proven worthless, in my experience. I would likely want to build a larger version of the bracket, that extends down to the actual post.
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I probably could rotate the blocks as to avoid that bracket into end grain. However I was under the impression that drilling pilot holes was the best solution if you did screw into end grain.
 


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