Lean-to construction

ghost said:
I’ve been thinking about welding a tube on top that I can slide something in to push down with.
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That’s what I did on mine. Then stick a “pinch bar” in the tube so that one or more people can provide downforce.

 
skyhighZJ said:
Until it catches and starts trying to find china. Then you’ve got a big corkscrew in that clay that won’t come out just like it don’t want to go in right now.
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That is a really good point. But it only happened to me once or twice. You just have to be careful to back off (push in the clutch) as soon as the auger catches.
 
ghost said:
So I hope I’m doing this right. Staked out the six post points and checked square by measuring the diagonal from the far post. Hooked up the post auger between rain storms and started 4 holes. One hole went in 24” the depth of the post. The others didn’t. Hard packed clay sucks with no down force.

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Does you digger have a hinge like this? I put a steel rod in mine and have someone put weight on it
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Nope. I’ll add something in the future.
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Ok so since I’m only spanning 10’ between post do the headers need to be double 2x6 or will a single 2x8 be fine? I can’t make out that chart that was posted. I plan to run 2x6 24” apart then 1x4 or similar to screw the tin to.
 
I’m no engine-eeeeer but I’d span 10’ w/ a 2x6 no issue. Given your massive snow load it should still hold up. I’d notch the 2x6 into the top of the 4x4 post though.


See also: don’t follow me for advice lol
 
I'm (probably) just a hack but have built a few equipment sheds with tin roofs and the 2x8 seem very adequate to me over a 10' span. 2x6's every 24" seems very adequate for a relatively light weight roof also. I'm sure the sites engineers will disagree, but I feel like ya'll are overthinking it.
 
Got the 6x6 post braced and called it a day. I’ll plumb them tomorrow. I’ll run a string line on the faces to make sure they are all in the same plane and check square on the tops before I mix and pour concrete. Went up to Historic Camden this am and was given some “adhesive flashing” to wrap the post.

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Welp I messed up somewhere when I staked out the holes. One side is 10” wider. Oh well. All poles are plumb and staked in. It’s not perfect and it’s probably not perfectly square either. I guess I could measure the diagonal at the pole bases? I know one thing I’m not going to quit trucking to become a builder.

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ghost said:
I’ve been thinking about welding a tube on top that I can slide something in to push down with.
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Just watch your nuts doing that. I've got a cousin that lost his to an auger. Granted, he was hanging on the hook on the gear box.
 
JSJJ388 said:
Just watch your nuts doing that. I've got a cousin that lost his to an auger. Granted, he was hanging on the hook on the gear box.
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That’s why I like using a 5-foot bar or something long like that. Keeps you away from the auger itself. And if the person helping you is smaller, they are able to put more force on it if needed, without really trying hard
 
So over the last few days after work I poured concrete in the holes. A lesson learned here. Figure out a way to make your new bigger holes smaller. I think one hole took 3+ 60 lb bags. Most took about 3. All in there are 20 bags in and around the holes.... Considering I have never done anything like this ever I feel pretty good. LOL! Going to let it set up the net two days and hopefully work on headers on Sunday.
 
ghost said:
So over the last few days after work I poured concrete in the holes. A lesson learned here. Figure out a way to make your new bigger holes smaller. I think one hole took 3+ 60 lb bags. Most took about 3. All in there are 20 bags in and around the holes.... Considering I have never done anything like this ever I feel pretty good. LOL! Going to let it set up the net two days and hopefully work on headers on Sunday.
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I had to fight my gut of wanting to do 12" holes for the chicken coop when I knew 8" would be plenty (honestly 6" would be plenty, but that doesn't give enough room for pole adjustment when the auger walks or I measured wrong). The 8" holes with a 4x4 in em took one bag each. A 12" hole would have been 2-3 bags.
 
jeepinmatt said:
I had to fight my gut of wanting to do 12" holes for the chicken coop when I knew 8" would be plenty (honestly 6" would be plenty, but that doesn't give enough room for pole adjustment when the auger walks or I measured wrong). The 8" holes with a 4x4 in em took one bag each. A 12" hole would have been 2-3 bags.
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So I'm not that far off with a 12"+ hole one way and a 6x6 in it.
 
ghost said:
So I'm not that far off with a 12"+ hole one way and a 6x6 in it.
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A 6x6 in an 8" hole would mean you have to shoot the hole dead perfect and theres no room for adjustment since a 6x6 is a little over 8" diagonally. A 10" hole would only give you an inch of adjustment. So yes, for a 6x6 I'd do a 12" hole. And probably about 18" deep. But if you plan to run into the post with the tractor a lot and need the extra strength, 24" might be a good idea :flipoff2:
 
ghost said:
So I'm not that far off with a 12"+ hole one way and a 6x6 in it.
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I built a roof over my patio with 6x6 posts in 2020, Had it engineered, the hole for the footing was 18" in diameter and 3-6" deep. My engineer said this is standard for uplift, your post width on each side plus the post for the hole diameter. He also wanted a 1/2" bolt 3" above the bottom of the post embedded in the concrete.
4x4 would be 12" hole according to him.
This is all for uplift not for weight of the structure.
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No fries said:
I built a roof over my patio with 6x6 posts in 2020, Had it engineered, the hole for the footing was 18" in diameter and 3-6" deep. My engineer said this is standard for uplift, your post width on each side plus the post for the hole diameter. He also wanted a 1/2" bolt 3" above the bottom of the post embedded in the concrete.
4x4 would be 12" hole according to him.
This is all for uplift not for weight of the structure.
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Interesting thing here is I thought about putting something threw the post but have not seen that in any of the video's I've watched. Wish I would have listened to my gut on that. I also set all the post on some brick or block so they were not on dirt. My holes are all 24" deep. For a first time building something like this I still feel good. Mistakes made are lessons learned. Thanks for posting that information. does the depth of the post in the hole matter with the height of the post? How tall are your poles?
 
ghost said:
Interesting thing here is I thought about putting something threw the post but have not seen that in any of the video's I've watched. Wish I would have listened to my gut on that. I also set all the post on some brick or block so they were not on dirt. My holes are all 24" deep. For a first time building something like this I still feel good. Mistakes made are lessons learned. Thanks for posting that information. does the depth of the post in the hole matter with the height of the post? How tall are your poles?
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I'm assuming @No fries patio roof was either attached to the house, or had enough structure up top to assist with racking (parallelogram effect). Same reason a standard house doesn't need any embedded framing, the structure is self supporting for sideloads. On a simple shed, there is basically no structure to handle such loads, so it all transmits to the posts, and the posts control that load in a cantilever fashion (basically bending and trying to break it off and ground level. With 18-24" of concrete embedment, you have sufficient depth to control the cantilever loads, and that depth also provides enough friction and binding on the concrete so that uplift is not a concern.
 


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