Lean to design, strength, spacing help?

SHINTON

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 17, 2005
Location
Triad area of NC
Ok I wanted to get the collective help of the group here on the design of my upcoming Lean To project! I will try to post up a few pictures to show the current building(s) but there is an existing stand alone "lean to" building that is next to my RV barn. I suspect maybe it was the older structure and then they built the RV barn, otherwise I cannot imagine why they did not tie the two together and create a "Lean to" instead of stand alone building.

The current Lean/to/stand alone building roof is shot, it will need all new plywood roof, and then shingles and/or tear off the roof and replace with metal roof afterwards but essentially LOTS of work to rescue it, walls are really old (good) woot that is rotted on bottom from touching ground, etc.

So my plan is this, to tear down this old structure and then build a new LEAN TO that will hook directly into the taller RV barn. The height on the RV barn side should be approx 12' high (height on the door on front) and the plan was to put a board across the barn for the joists to tie into / butt up against. There is an official word for this you will probably know and use in your comments. I assume I will be using joist hanger brackets to support those, and as we design, that will answer the question am I using 2x6 joists, 2x8, 2x10, etc?

So upper end at 12' and I want to come out from the barn approx 16' and end up at 9' in height so I can clear 8' or so of enclosed trailer (assuming 2x8 or 2x10 at this end so 8' and change. I believe this gives me a pitch of 2.29 to 1 (36" rise, 16' rafter length is about 15.7' of length from barn to end of this.

The RV barn is about 41-42' long, so this structure, goal is 40' long approx with 4, 10' wide bays so I can back in my enclosed trailer, tractor, etc. in each bay.

So with that in mind the "span" for each bay will be 10' wide. How far apart should my joists be? 16" wide, 24", 12" With metal roof, to make sure it is strong enough for that roof pitch and NC snow, etc.


For those joists, should I use 2x6, 2x8, 2x10? I am assuming on the low end I will have say 4x6 or 6x6 posts with a 2x8 (or 2x10) going from post to post for my joists to sit on. I am also assuming I will have another 4x6 or 6x6 post half way down the 16' span of the joists and again a 2x8 or 2x10 to support those joists. (So they are support at the barn itself via joist hanger, and then every 8' approx.


Going from side to side across the bays, I am assuming 2x4s on top of the joists and then I will be nailing the metal roof directly to those 2x4s? (If I should use something different here let me know) How often should I space out those 2x4s to support the roof / any snow and in theory for me or someone that needs to get up on the roof to walk around safely?

In summary, how far apart are the joists and what size board would you recommend? How far apart are the roof cross / boards that the metal roof will be nailed to?

I appreciate your help, I have done SOME googling on this but a lot of it has to do with building a traditional roof on a home / trusses. I tend to OVERBUILD and would rather use 25%, 50% extra wood to make sure this is strong and will last DECADES!
IMG_5882.jpg
Lean To roof pitch.png
 
24” on center for the rafters with 1x4 purlins for metal will be more than enough. It’s what I just did with my 28x16 shed off the side of my shop. My pitch is 7* and snow load calcs were more than adequate. This is with rough sawn so a little more meat than dimensional lumber.

93D7908A-67EA-407D-90AE-7D879202D8AD.jpeg
 
24” on center for the rafters with 1x4 purlins for metal will be more than enough. It’s what I just did with my 28x16 shed off the side of my shop. My pitch is 7* and snow load calcs were more than adequate. This is with rough sawn so a little more meat than dimensional lumber.
Is those joists 2"x8"x16' ?

No need for brace at 8' (half way)?

24" between joists and 24" between purloins is what I am hearing and those purloins can be just 1x4 instead of 2x4?

It looks like your "bays" are 12-13' wide approx since that is 28' long?
 
The rafters are rough cut 2x6 SYP, true measurements 2”x6” instead of dimensional lumber which is smaller. They are on 24” center, 16’ long (15’ span to outside 2x10 band). The fly rafters on each end are only about 12” from next rafter.

Purlins are true 1x4 SYP and spaced at 24” on center.

Yes, no brace needed. With asphalt shingles and sheeting I would probably do 2x8 because of the weight difference.
 
Back
Top