lets talk rv's

RufusTheRam

New Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2005
Location
Raleigh
in my quest to top yager for the most campers, motorhomes, and otherwise odd toterhomes, i am back on the hunt for something else. i thought i was close to my "perfect" rig with the bus and the toterhome. i believe one final tweak will make me perfectly happy.

i really hate to sell the toter i just bought, but medical reasons are going to prevent me from driving it for a while. plus, it's really just TOO much truck (is that possible?). not only is it a behemoth in and of itself, once you get my 32ft. trailer behind it it's an 18 wheeler and then some. it's also ridiculously over powered for my loads. which is nice, but not needed. nice accommodations on the inside, but still a little much of a vehicle to wield around camp for non trailering trips.

the bus was nice for space and general concept, but was lacking in refinement and power to really be suitable for a long term rig. it was livealbe as a tow rig, but for just recreational vacation trips it really had no upsides.

SO... i am settling somewhere in between to diesel pusher rv's. i'm talking about the decent stuff, not some stick and staple nightmare on a 1 ton chassis that blows apart in a stiff cross wind. dedicated medium duty chassis, air brakes, etc. etc. i've been very curious about converted motor coaches, but the two stroke diesels most have turned me off.

with that, i'm mostly lost in the dark. i can look at things and see what looks quality, but i'm not familiar with the THOUSANDS of brands out there. any suggestions? advice? commone motors i'm seeing in my price rang: cummin 5.9/8.3 cat 3208.

i thought this might be a good thread for those of us that look for a little more in a recreational vehicle.
 
What about the older Wanderlodges? Well built rigs. Still maybe too long for what you want.
 
yeah, they would work well. i see two problems with them though. one, they have such a cult following they command a premium. two, they "only" have a 3208cat/allison 4 speed combo. adequate, but not impressive. definitely cool rv's though. there is a guy on pirate that tows with one.

i guess i should clarifiy that wheelbase is is the real killer, not so much length.
 
good point. i believe those are are chassis/frame limitations though. a lot of the nicer ones are on a bus or bread truck/step van type chassis (like the above mentioned wanderlodge of for example), and should be able to safely handle more.
 
I've seen plenty of Class A's with limitations, but haven't seen the pushers with that, butit makes sense...
 
Ivan, I know I don't need to tell you this, but stay away from gassers. I've used my parent's 34' class A a few times to tow my rig to Tellico and the pull over black mountain was torturous. I had the poor "little" V10 singing the whole way up the hill. I was able to manage around 50mph but my foot was about 3" past the floorboard. That said, you may consider it a stick and staple since it's not a diesel pusher, but it sure beats a tent. Here's a pic with the jeep loaded just for the sake of doing so.
ai31.photobucket.com_albums_c391_willness33_TJ_20PICS_Apr30_08.jpg

Edit: Paying for gas really brings the suck when you're only able to manage around 8 mpg at best.
 
50 up black is bad ? 8mpg is terrible ? that little v10 can take that all day long. Your comparing large V8 gasser operation and performance to how a diesel would do it..

Ivan, I want my damn steak dinner !!!!

You have touched on the big issues with them. Capacity, performance tow rating, chassis strength. I think the new ones that are available on MDT chassis, address all of those with a price tag...

U want that without the pricetag...

Seriously have you looked into really building one yourself ? I thought you were sorta on the right track with the last one. Find the base truck you like (auto/engine etc)

Then step back and think about what it needs to be a good camper/toter for you.. Possibly lower the roof line some, open the back end up (like that one on PBB) Blow some firring inside, insulate, panel and bam, new interior. Then its exactly the way you want it..

and... yes it is possible to have too much truck :) I know what you mean. BUT if you find one with the right GVRW it wont feel that way..
 
I reread your post...

Sounds like you want to pull your 32' trailer and have the tow rig be more camper ish..?

So pull 15k tag trailer ?
how much camper length you want ?
Large plush master bed room type feel ?
Or a more functional setup with good accommodation for 4-6 ?

is 16' enough or 20/22/24' etc ?

Did you like the sleeper on the truck or was that not a big deal ? or would a 4 door crew-cab model be better
 
Sounds like you want to pull your 32' trailer and have the tow rig be more camper ish..?
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bingo. i do a lot of traveling/trips that aren't related to 4 wheeling as well as drag racing, so something geared a little more towards that i'm thinking might be for me. ultimately, like i said i want something in between my bus and the toter.

i definitely don't have the time, ability, or resources to build something right now. besides, no matter what you do to something like a bus, mdt, etc. there are still inherent mechanical things that aren't going to change without wasting more money than it's worth.

15k is the very max i ever pull and that's rare. realistically, it's usually closer to 12k and sometimes not even if i've just got one car/truck on.

maneuverability is an issue also. even though the bus+trailer was probably close to 65-70ft. in total length, i could still swing through normal gas stations, fast food parking lots, city streets, etc. with relative ease. that is NOT happening with the toter. it's truck stops only, or other very carefully evaluated parking lots. fueling, stopping for meals, and where to camp all become much bigger challenges than i really want to deal with.

so, basically i think i can sacrifice a little bit of power in return for getting some practicality back yet still retain all of the creature comforts.
 
What about something like this? about 26' and 8' inside 6'6"+ Tall it would depend on your rig you built and what you did.
I built this up for my shooting comps and that is all I use it for now. We can put cannons and mortars in the back it has doors on both sides small windows on both sides 2 vents on top, power from batterys and inverters, bunks, shower, and other junk... and set up for 10K+ I could easy load a jeep in place of the cannons if I wanted.

ai256.photobucket.com_albums_hh172_biggadget_camper.jpg

ai256.photobucket.com_albums_hh172_biggadget_camper1.jpg
 
wouldn't make any sense for about half of trips i take. i do a lot of non automotive related traveling also where i have no need for anything but living quarters.
 
RufusTheRam said:
wouldn't make any sense for about half of trips i take. i do a lot of non automotive related traveling also where i have no need for anything but living quarters.
Click to expand...

Was that to me?
If so I only load the cannons on some trips. The full trailer is living quarters. Its just that most toy haulers are made to put a few bikes or ATVs in the back and when I went looking at toy haulers and told them I wanted to put two cannons in the back and one is 3000+- and the other about 1500 +- and mortars they told me no one makes a toy hauler for stuff like that, those are not toys......:rolleyes: Toy haulers or for bikes a ATV's.....:shaking: I would need to get a Race car trailer.
So got a trailer that could do both and built it up. The bunks move and fold up.. I have used it for a camper several times, works good. Looking at putting AC in it this year.
 
yager said:
50 up black is bad ? 8mpg is terrible ? that little v10 can take that all day long. Your comparing large V8 gasser operation and performance to how a diesel would do it..
Click to expand...
Actually, I'm comparing the Triton V10 gasser to a Diesel. The Triton aint bad, but it's no oil burner.

Ivan, just for s and g's, head to one of those huge rv dealers and just take a look around and see what suits your fancy. THen you can look at pricing and options. Tom JOhnsons usually has a poopload of used RVs as well.
 
willness33 said:
I had the poor "little" V10 singing the whole way up the hill. I was able to manage around 50mph but my foot was about 3" past the floorboard.
Edit: Paying for gas really brings the suck when you're only able to manage around 8 mpg at best.
Click to expand...


8MPG is pretty damn good, when the guys with the diesels get maybe 10? Compare fuel cost and availability differences along with maintenance costs, and that v10 is looking not so bad.

Honestly, I never thought the gassers could get out of their own way, but it's always the q-tips I see driving them..never someone actually DRIVING it. Would it maintain traffic speed on the rest of the highway?

I will say that from what i've seen though, the diesel coaches are typically built for the long haul, heavier duty everything throughout, which explains alot of the cost.
 
ivan - hell even with a normal truck as a tow rig and a long trailer picking stops can be a chore.
I fully understand what your looking for. You want to be able to live out of the 'truck' and pull your existing magic carpet :D trailer..
You have a tall order to fill.
Not sure if you've seen this on ebay. And not saying this truck truck is good or not. BUT the box on the back definitely looks to be aftermarket. I'd think youd be so much further ahead to find the right size truck/chassis. Possibly one of the newer 4door FL60s and get a box like this one..
While not the best'est RV I think it would give you better mobility vs a full on RV (unless thats the part you want most. Other wise its RV land for you...

pics from the ad...
110d_3.JPG

056b_3.JPG
 
Rich said:
Would it maintain traffic speed on the rest of the highway?
Click to expand...
Absolutely. It'll run with traffic all day long. The only time it starts to breathe a little heavy is on long hills. Even towing one jeep, it'll run flats and slight grades with no problem.
 
as the time gets closer that i can drive my toter again, i've been scheming a bit on ways to downsize it that might make it bearable to maneuver in smaller areas. i don't "need" the 5x8 storage area at the rear. it could be cut off from there, losing 5ft. in over all length. shove the rear axle up 5ft. as well. thoughts on the effort, cost, etc. that would be involved here? i would think a 60" change in wheelbase would make a significant difference. i could go ahead and do air ride while i'm at it as well. i sure would love to figure out an economical way to keep this monster of a drivetrain.
 
Id looking to finding a rear frame cut that has air ride at a big truck junk yard.. Find the same model/type that will reduce the complexity. See how/where its attached, make sure your frame can accomdate being shortened and that you can (re)move middle crossmembers without issue. THEN figure out exactly how much to chop off. Bring it up to a good spot keeping in mind roof struts/bracing etc.. Might consider removing the box rear door track assembly and bring that forward. The metal provides a lot of structure. Even if you left only a little room before the camper area it would be good storage etc.. Or just frame it in and reuse the walls you cut away to close in the back completely with the FRP. I think it will improve turning a lot more than you'd expect...
 
Question, what is the tow rating on a 32 foot class A with 460FI motor?I found a smokin deal on one. Load consists of a 1k lb trailer and 3500 lb POS.Did i mention smokin deal? :beer:
 
redneckcj5guy said:
Question, what is the tow rating on a 32 foot class A with 460FI motor?I found a smokin deal on one. Load consists of a 1k lb trailer and 3500 lb POS.Did i mention smokin deal? :beer:
Click to expand...
No telling.
you'd have to look at the specific rv. It really depends. A lot of them have so much distance behind that rear axle, they can't handle crap for tongue weight.
 
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