Lifting a ifs Toyota

JNO

JNO

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 3, 2019
Location
Shelby NC
I recently bought a great running 2nd gen Toyota but the bed and some of the cab is crap, not really wanting to put a lot of money into it, so a SAS is not happening but I want to make enough room for a set of spare 35’s I have behind my shop. I’m just wanting something to have a little fun with and let my wife have something to wheel when she wants to. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated
 
2nd gen yotas have torsion bars, turn them up all the way, it will ride like shit, but give you around 3" lift. For the rear, either blocks or shackles. For 35's you'll probably have to get the sawzall out and do some cutting.
 
I don’t mind cutting it, thanks for the info, anybody got any good parts to make it a little better on the trail I’m interested, even some decent bucket seats, branch seat is about toast
 
What is the width on those 35s? What is the wheel offset?

Here's the honest truth. Your options are limited. There is no way you will get 3" of lift from just cranking the t-bars. Maybe 1.5". And it will have NO flex and be even worse offroad than if you just left it w/ stock tires.

The "right" thing to do is get a bracket lift kit, but they are $$$.
The alternative is to get balljoint spacers, and trim the fenders and beat the back corner of the fender seams in as flat as you can w/ a BFH. May even need to cut/grind it there to get clearance.
Be warned, the BJ spacers throw your tierods and everything else out of whack, and makes it easy to break tie rods and other stuff. CV joints will break b/c they are at unnatural angles that puts them in stress. BJ spacers are a cheap quick solution that has many long term problems.

If it really is a beater and you don't want to spend $$ and don't care what it looks like, then leave everything as is and cut the crap out of thenders or just remove them alltogether, and leave the T-bars alone so that it can flex and wobble as much as possible.
IF you can get skinny (10") 35s and have just the right wheel offset it can be done w/o the trimming being too bad.
 
Problem with lifting them at all is the CV angles. Increase angle Increase breakage. If its a true beater, hammer the pinch weld on the firewall and cut your way to fitting the 35s.

I ran 33s on a stock height 4runner with no rubbing and maintained factory CV angles... before solid axle swapping.
 
I appreciate the info, it’s pretty much a true beater, if it wasn’t so bad I wouldn’t mind throwing a solid axle under the front but this was just a cheap truck with a good drivetrain
 
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