link question

pcole0920

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 23, 2009
Location
Lexington NC
Ok I may be just thinking out loud but i know a 3 link will out flex a 4 link front like the clayton kit (radius arm) because of the binding that comes from the 2 top arms. My question is what would be the down fall from leaving one top arm out? Would it take to much away from the strength?
 
leaving one arm out of the 4link? or off the radius arm?

i used to run a R.C. kit and left the pass side upper off. the diff upper is stronger. the only down fall was that when id get wheel hop it chattered bad.
 
Yea leave out one top arm. I'm thinking the style kit that the upper arms are attached to the lower arms. Would it hurt anything to leave one out?
 
pcole0920 said:
I was looking at going to 5/8th bolts for uppers same as lower
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That's fine as long as you weld a truss over the diff. I dont think there is a bushing/joint that fits in the stock, cast-in hole in the center section that will accommodate a 5/8" bolt. Pretty sure the stock UCA bushing sleeve is too thin to drill to 5/8".
 
Jody Treadway said:
That's fine as long as you weld a truss over the diff. I dont think there is a bushing/joint that fits in the stock, cast-in hole in the center section that will accommodate a 5/8" bolt. Pretty sure the stock UCA bushing sleeve is too thin to drill to 5/8".
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Yea ther is.

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Personally , I would think so. Novacayne's bushing would allow you to use a 5/8" fastener, which would be stronger. I guess it comes down to if you want a bushing or a joint.
 
To start with, a radius arm suspension is not a 4 link, it's a "radius arm 3 link". Wristing the passenger arm used to be common for early broncos, then people realized that all it did was make the suspension act shitty when climbing, put twice as much stress on the driver side axle tube welds, and lose the swaybar effect that in my opinion is one of the upsides of a radius arm suspension. I had an xj with a rustys longarm and it had no problem using every bit of shock travel up front...what more are you trying to gain?
 
Another approach...
I recently did a three link on a TJ and used the Clayton bridge with the mount on it. It really fit nice. Very simple and you dont have to cut the casting off. Also allows you to use johnny joints or heims in double shear. And not they're not expensive.
aclaytonoffroad.com_images_tj3lk5.jpg
 
braxton357 said:
To start with, a radius arm suspension is not a 4 link, it's a "radius arm 3 link". Wristing the passenger arm used to be common for early broncos, then people realized that all it did was make the suspension act shitty when climbing, put twice as much stress on the driver side axle tube welds, and lose the swaybar effect that in my opinion is one of the upsides of a radius arm suspension. I had an xj with a rustys longarm and it had no problem using every bit of shock travel up front...what more are you trying to gain?
Click to expand...
I agree. I ran a clayton radius on my tj for years and never found the "bind" problem. I know in theory it's real but in real world practice, Ive never seen it.
 
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