Link Threading

mcconnell

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2007
Location
Apex, NC
I’m about to 3/4 link my TJ and I’m curious on everyone’s opinion on joint threading. RH/LH vs. RH/RH links. Normal threaded bungs, d60s, 37-39s. I plan to drive it to the trail and to work occasionally.

I don’t want to chase jamb nuts and I figure it’s not something to adjust regularly so I bought 8 RH enduro joints for the rear. If the consensus is RH/LH I’ll move some of those to the front and get some LH joints/bungs.
 
I’m running RH/LH on my buggy. Go to make one adjustment with all RH threads and you’ll cuss yourself.
 
Exactly...much nicer to be able to adjust links without removing them!
 
I feel the same way about this as seeing hydro assist tabs welded straight to a tie rod and not a tube clamp. I wouldn't do that to myself.
 
I like to run all rights personally. It does suck setting everything up, but like @braxton357 said how often are you really doing that. By running all rights you don't have to worry about the links unthreading when tires touch them, jam nut loosening, and it gives the ability to carry one as spare and it fit anywhere. Another bonus is right hand taps are a fraction of the cost as left hand taps. That only matters if your a dumbass like me who cant seem to weld bungs in without having to chase the treads EVERY DAMN TIME!
 
As someone who is constantly tinkering and adjusting things, RH/LH on every link.

I know someone's going to ask so I'll go ahead and put it out there. I like to adjust ride height, link separation, and slight increments in wheelbase just to see how the rig reacts differently on and off road. I'm trying to grasp the concepts of how every change affects the rig on and off road because I like trial/error and learning why.
 
Thanks for the replies. Alot of stuff I had already thought about, but its good to hear it from others. I'm going to stick with the RH/RH and fight it once during setup and hopefully not touch it for a long time.
 
mcconnell said:
I’m about to 3/4 link my TJ and I’m curious on everyone’s opinion on joint threading. RH/LH vs. RH/RH links. Normal threaded bungs, d60s, 37-39s. I plan to drive it to the trail and to work occasionally.

I don’t want to chase jamb nuts and I figure it’s not something to adjust regularly so I bought 8 RH enduro joints for the rear. If the consensus is RH/LH I’ll move some of those to the front and get some LH joints/bungs.
Click to expand...

I'd do RH/LH and check the jam nuts tightness as a part of regular maintenance.
It's impossible to adjust the RH/RH links on an alignment machine without major cussing.

mcconnell said:
Thanks for the replies. Alot of stuff I had already thought about, but its good to hear it from others. I'm going to stick with the RH/RH and fight it once during setup and hopefully not touch it for a long time.
Click to expand...

Hope you don't wheel hard. Shit moves and I like to have the ability to adjust things.

Croatan_Kid said:
I feel the same way about this as seeing hydro assist tabs welded straight to a tie rod and not a tube clamp. I wouldn't do that to myself.
Click to expand...

If you're actually wheeling hard, clamps with slide. It's not a matter of if, but when.
Low buck solution is to weld it and it does fine if you weld the tab in the right location. PSC and Howe rams have a heim that's adjustable on the ends and you can use it to fine tune the location of the mounting point after adjusting your toe.
Best solution if you're scared about welding on your tie-rod is to get a groove machined so that your clamp can fall in and not move out.

NCJeeplover said:
I like to run all rights personally. It does suck setting everything up, but like @braxton357 said how often are you really doing that. By running all rights you don't have to worry about the links unthreading when tires touch them, jam nut loosening, and it gives the ability to carry one as spare and it fit anywhere. Another bonus is right hand taps are a fraction of the cost as left hand taps. That only matters if your a dumbass like me who cant seem to weld bungs in without having to chase the treads EVERY DAMN TIME!
Click to expand...

NCJeeplover said:
I tried that once and it didnt work out well. I also don't have any heims around I want to cook. Now I just weld them empty and chase the treads.
Click to expand...

I do the same thing. Burn it deep and hot, let it cool down and case the threads. Note that no high level fab shop builds links with the heims in. Cause if you fuck up, at least you're not trashing the heims with the link.
 
NickMaul said:
Every time with a healthy amount of anti-seize. Buy some cheapie Barnes heims that are dedicated for welding!
Click to expand...
That is what I did with the steering on my YJ. I put some anti-seize on old heims just for welding. A bolt could be used too.
 
Bebop said:
Cause if you fuck up, at least you're not trashing the heims with the link.
Click to expand...
That's why you use an old joint. :shaking:

I plug weld them in two spots and weld the butt joint with an old joint threaded in the hole. The joint backs out by hand when I'm done.
 
I’m gonna skip all that nonsense and just order aluminum links, threaded, with a wrench flat machined into it.
 
@Bebop I'm not scared to weld to a tie rod, I just don't want it to be limited to a full turn one way or the other when it gets adjusted. I've done one with an undercut and I've gotten a few that had serrations inside the clamp. If it moves, I can always move it back and throw a couple of tacks on it.

I can definitely see carrying one (type of) spare if they're all RH. Lock Tite 680 works wonders for things that you never want to move...like jam nuts :D

I do wish the upper links of the radius arms on my HD had adjusters in them. They're just a threaded bung and a jam nut. It would certainly make changing the caster easier, but that's really not something you need to change often, or at all, after the first time. Hopefully.
 
@mcconnell regardless of which way you go, I have a big lathe and both 7/8 and 1-1/4" LH and RH taps just down the road from you between Alexis and Dallas ;)
 
NickMaul said:
Heims are a cheaper tool :D couldn’t find a good link for LH 1 1/4x12 taps. McMaster has them for >$100.
Click to expand...

LH
www.homedepot.com

Drill America 1 in. -14 High Speed Steel Left Hand 4-Flute Plug Tap (1-Piece) DWT60910 - The Home Depot

Drill America Hand Taps. Hand Taps are the most versatile taps for hand use, or for tapping under power. Hand threading tap is popular for use in general machine tapping or CNC tapping. Appropriate for
www.homedepot.com

RH
www.homedepot.com

Drill America 1-1/4 in. -12 Carbon Steel Taper Hand Tap DWTT1-1/4-12 - The Home Depot

Drill America Hand Taps. Hand Taps are the most versatile taps for hand use or for tapping under power. Hand threading tap is popular for use in general machine tapping or CNC tapping. This is also appropriate
www.homedepot.com

Having taps lets you save a fucked up bung. Using heims lets you trash everything if you made a mistake.
 
Bebop said:
LH
www.homedepot.com

Drill America 1 in. -14 High Speed Steel Left Hand 4-Flute Plug Tap (1-Piece) DWT60910 - The Home Depot

Drill America Hand Taps. Hand Taps are the most versatile taps for hand use, or for tapping under power. Hand threading tap is popular for use in general machine tapping or CNC tapping. Appropriate for
www.homedepot.com

RH
www.homedepot.com

Drill America 1-1/4 in. -12 Carbon Steel Taper Hand Tap DWTT1-1/4-12 - The Home Depot

Drill America Hand Taps. Hand Taps are the most versatile taps for hand use or for tapping under power. Hand threading tap is popular for use in general machine tapping or CNC tapping. This is also appropriate
www.homedepot.com

Having taps lets you save a fucked up bung. Using heims lets you trash everything if you made a mistake.
Click to expand...
How exactly do you go about trashing a threaded bung insert? :cool:

It is possible to cut out a threaded insert without losing any significant tube material. I did it when I accidentally put in two RH inserts in one of my tie rods.

I agree taps are convenient in the case that a few of the threads deformed. Still don’t see a cheap 1 1/4-12 LH tap :flipoff2:
 
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