Lockright locker install

Zebbie

Zebbie

Active Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2009
Location
Rock Hill SC
I have 4.88 gears and I am about to put a lockright in it. I have heard the cross pin will not come out so I will have to take out whole carrier. Since I am not changing ring gear I am thinking I should be able to put it back just like it came out and ring and pinion should still be set right. Is this right?
I have stock dana30 open now.
 
Keep the shims on the right sides, mark the bearing caps and have at it. If its to tight to go back in put all the shims in except the very largest. Put it in last. It'll "purswade easier with a brass hammer or a shim driver. I made one years ago that is out of 1/4 thick steel machined with a contour that fits most shims so it doesn't glance off and has a 1 1/4 diameter handle to hold and strike the end. May need a heafty pry bar to get the carrier out if its super preloaded on the carrier. Had a few like that, and an extra set of hands to catch it if your on a lift or higher up. Some let go and roll out all at once if your not ready.
 
Awesome. Thanks guys! That really helps a lot. I think I can do it myself then.
 
Or you could shave the gears down where the pin would slide out. I've done it to a few different rigs without issue. Makes like MUCH easier when tearing down the diff.
 
I hit the 4.56s in my K30 with a grinder on the tip of one tooth. There was no way I was going to tear down the whole front axle just to put in a Lock Right.
 
You have to be careful with the shims, if it is real tight you can brake the shims when you hit them! In regards to the above^^^^^^^^ go to auto zone and buy some "presion blue (sp)" apply to the ring gear and give it 5 or 6 turns, this will allow you to see how much of the tooth you can grind off with out affecting anything, if your worried about it. Just my .02
 
to each his own, but I prefer the chunck out on the table to install any lunchbox locker. Making sparks and or grinding debris inside a loaded housing just to save a little wrenching never jived with me. You can be carful but some of that mess is going places your not going to get it flushed out. And just to clarify about driving shims, get the biggest BFH you can swing and pound the hell out of em. :shaking: Seriously dude were not talking square peg in round hole stuff here. Your not going to get them in with your fingers. If so you done cut them to shreds on the thin ones, or the carrier bearings are already toast and have insufficient preload. Drive the largest in , use a driver or brass drift ect. DON't mar the edges. If your swinging like pounding nails your doing it wrong and something isn't right. Back up, square it up, and check your alignment. Don't pull it home with the bearing caps. Ideally you
d have a carrier spreader, I've never needed one on this light duty of an axle.
 
It took me about 30 seconds with a grinder, probably less than .040", but I did tape/wrap up everything except the area of the ring gear I needed to get to. Then I sprayed everything out with brake cleaner. I didn't just have at it and launch grinding dust in to the carrier :D

It'd be quite a bit easier to disassemble a Dana 30 than a Dana 60 though, so I'd just take that jewel apart.
 
Update: I got the carrier back in now it was really tough to get it out. It was in there tight with no shims. It went back in easier than I expected I just have to make sure that it is lined up right. It looks like it is.
I am amazed on how hard it is to find the paint for the ring gear. I went to o'reilly and advance. They both had no idea what I was talking about. My mother has some craft paint hopefully will work.
I took the ring gear off the carrier because the cross shaft was about halfway covered by teeth so I would have had to grind 2 or 3 teeth completely off to get it out.
Everything is looking good so far keep your fingers crossed thank you guys very much for your advice
 
I was surprised to see that there is no oil going down the axle tubes. There is no outer seal on the drivers side to stop mud from getting down the tubes. Does anyone know where I can get one? or if it is possible to put one on? or is it really needed?
 
Outer axle seals aren't really necessary, that's why they are none there. If you want, the aftermarket will gladly take your $50, Google 'd30 axle tube seals' and have you credit card handy.
 
Wow. Too much for me for that!! Not really necessary works for me
 
Yeah that's what I was referring to. That plastic disk is only on passenger side. Is it possible to get one for the drivers side? Seems like it is going to be a only at dealer item. Then it will probably be $50 just for that disk.
 
Not sure I broke mine and put outer axle seals after grit got down the tube and helped wear out the inner seal, that being said I have a spare set of shafts that have the disks on them, it wouldn't bother me to swap a shaft that has it for
Yours that doesn't. I'll be at the open ride at the flats.
 
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