low castle nut on tie rod end

RenegadeT

RenegadeT

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Is it legit to use a hardened washer between the steering knuckle arm and castle nut for TRE's? When I torque the nut top spec (65ft-lb), the cotter pin hole is above the castle nut.
 
Did you get the castle nut mixed with another? I had the same problem couple weeks ago. I had the tre and ball joint nut mixed up. Ball joint was fine. But tre had the same problem.
 
Ya.. have to ask, why would this happen?

But to answer the question - as long as it's tight, and you can pin it in place while nice and snug, I can't think of any reason the washer would be bad. Normally the risk would be the extra likelihood of loosening, but the pin should prevent that...
 
Is it a new TRE with old castle nut? Is it a good TRE rather than a cheap import?


I'd think if it were a cheap import, the shank and hole may not be in the right position or maybe the nut is not right.

Pick up a new, taller nut and be done.

I don't think the washer would hurt, but its an extra part to wear our and cause premature loose TREs
 
new front axle but...same knuckles, same old TREs, same nuts (99.9% sure...I take the nut off, knock the ends off, replace nut, reinstall weeks later). I replaced the balljoints, maybe I can snag the old bj nuts, see if they are taller.
 
You are over thinking it. Stick a grade 8 washer in there and roll out.
 
The washer will be perfectly fine. I have had people taper a TRE or knuckle just a touch too deep and have the same issue. As long as the body of the TRE is not bottoming out during the joint's cycle it will not be a problem at all.
 
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joshua1086 said:
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most useful reply here
 
A washer is no big deal. Some of the aftermarket JK tie rods require the use of a washer to keep the nut on the threads and not bottoming out on to the taper.
 
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