Ls drivetrain price

justjeepin86

justjeepin86

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 9, 2005
Location
Winston-Salem, NC
2007
6.0 trans and tcase.
Harness and computer.
170k miles
Hypothetically in ready to run condition
What's it worth?

Want to swap in a 71 Chevy 4x4. Planning super duty axles and suspension.

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If you believe the innernet $20/ton plus $1000 worth of JEGS goodies and you’ll be laying down 700+ hp. But I digress, several other guys on the board much more in tune with the LS world than I am.
 
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Let them throw out the first number. I try to stay 1500 or less. I've been working on an LS swap here lately. If you cant get away with it....leave it as stock as possible. IE stock intake and pulley set up. The little stuff is going to add up real quick
 
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1stgenxxx said:
The little stuff is going to add up real quick
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I got a spreadsheet for mine that took my $500 junkyard special to damn near $4K. I’m probably overthinking the whole thing, but I went car intake for hood clearance and moved all the accessories up high to make clearance for link bars. #buggylife
 
BigSouth said:
I got a spreadsheet for mine that took my $500 junkyard special to damn near $4K. I’m probably overthinking the whole thing, but I went car intake for hood clearance and moved all the accessories up high to make clearance for link bars. #buggylife
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Make sure to add your new baller Nitrous kit :D
 
Fluctuates pretty wildly depending on who you are dealing with. If its known to run and drive and can be proven, a 6.0/4L80 with all the accessories and an uncut harness/ECU will go for as high as $2500 with low miles. Start at $1500 and try and get it for around that. All of the random accessories and pulleys add up fast. Any higher than that and the way my mind works is telling me to buy a work truck, pull what I need and part/scrap the rest to offset the cost as best as possible.
 
$1000 to $1600
I know battleground wrecker in Burlington sells motors complete for like $325? iirc I’ve seen a couple 6.0’s, but high mileage.
 
Ultimately, I want a running and driving truck to buy. The one I'm looking at just happens to be that. He wants the front clip and bed, so that should lessen the blow. We'll see what he says. I should talk with him today. I plan on all stock and probably even gonna use the fuel tank if I can fit it in there. That will eliminate the cost of that part of it. I should have everything I need for the whole swap buying a truck. Just have to make sure it's in good shape.
 
Smart idea. It's hard to believe how much the little shit you forgot to grab at the JY, when pulling an engine, will add up to.
 
BigSouth said:
I got a spreadsheet for mine that took my $500 junkyard special to damn near $4K. I’m probably overthinking the whole thing, but I went car intake for hood clearance and moved all the accessories up high to make clearance for link bars. #buggylife
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This is why I always chuckle when the innernet wants to LS swap the world...My Jy Ls WiTh EbAy TuRbOs Is JiS aS gUd.
 
UTfball68 said:
This is why I always chuckle when the innernet wants to LS swap the world...My Jy Ls WiTh EbAy TuRbOs Is JiS aS gUd.
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I honestly think it can be done fairly economically in certain conditions. This guy is swapping into a big body Chevy and probably keeping the leaf springs. If you buy the junkyard special complete, you’ll be ok. If you plan to alter things to make it fit around other parameters (hood/links) get out your checkbook.
 
BigSouth said:
I honestly think it can be done fairly economically in certain conditions. This guy is swapping into a big body Chevy and probably keeping the leaf springs. If you buy the junkyard special complete, you’ll be ok. If you plan to alter things to make it fit around other parameters (hood/links) get out your checkbook.
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Agreed...drop in, tough to beat hp:$, assuming unknown JY/high mile engine is good enough. Personally, you start talking 200,000 miles on a gas engine, I start thinking it's living on borrowed time. That said, LEB did quite a few LS swaps in a few different style builds...you crack one open, and the cost of an engine build is the cost of an engine build. And to your point, that one ton swapped square bodied dually we did was probably the biggest pain in the ass out of all of them.
 
07 was a split year, Lq4/80e cost way different then LY6/6L80e. As far as fitting in a that chassis; engine mounts, headers, radiator hoses, are the main things. Fancy accessory drive stuff is $300+, stock access drive stuff should clear with the appropriate engine mounts, and you should be able to reuse your PS pump, if not jus adapt the lines. The truck pan should clear, again with the appropriate engine mounts. Fuel system will be a few hundo, you can tap into the gauges or throw a fancy $1000+ dash in it. Setting up the harness ECU can be a cut down stock harness, few companies sell kits to convert your harness ($200ish + tune/vats delete), or full blown harness/pcm setups ($700ish+ 1000). You’re gonna have to do something about driveshafts, factory stuff will be a few inches off with either combo. It’s a stupid simple swap and they fit those engine bays without much issues.

They can be cheap, mine cost probably $2500 because I bought a lot of new shit. Probably could have done it for well under a grand going the junkyard route and doing my own harness, $750 for harness and computer but it fired right up. I started with a long block and eBay used intake manifold assembly. Also the 6.0 gets used a lot in fleet vehicles that routinely last 300-400k miles.
 
iwaxmyjimmy said:
07 was a split year, Lq4/80e cost way different then LY6/6L80e. As far as fitting in a that chassis; engine mounts, headers, radiator hoses, are the main things. Fancy accessory drive stuff is $300+, stock access drive stuff should clear with the appropriate engine mounts, and you should be able to reuse your PS pump, if not jus adapt the lines. The truck pan should clear, again with the appropriate engine mounts. Fuel system will be a few hundo, you can tap into the gauges or throw a fancy $1000+ dash in it. Setting up the harness ECU can be a cut down stock harness, few companies sell kits to convert your harness ($200ish + tune/vats delete), or full blown harness/pcm setups ($700ish+ 1000). You’re gonna have to do something about driveshafts, factory stuff will be a few inches off with either combo. It’s a stupid simple swap and they fit those engine bays without much issues.

They can be cheap, mine cost probably $2500 because I bought a lot of new shit. Probably could have done it for well under a grand going the junkyard route and doing my own harness, $750 for harness and computer but it fired right up. I started with a long block and eBay used intake manifold assembly. Also the 6.0 gets used a lot in fleet vehicles that routinely last 300-400k miles.
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BigSouth said:
I honestly think it can be done fairly economically in certain conditions. This guy is swapping into a big body Chevy and probably keeping the leaf springs. If you buy the junkyard special complete, you’ll be ok. If you plan to alter things to make it fit around other parameters (hood/links) get out your checkbook.
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FYI 71 4wd it isnt just motor mounts.
You have to replace the front cross member.
Use the dirty dingo : Chevrolet GMC LS 1967-72 4X4 LS1 Conversion Swap Cross Member

Its a bolt together design and works perfect.

2wd its just diff mounts 4wd adds a curveball
 
Ron said:
FYI 71 4wd it isnt just motor mounts.
You have to replace the front cross member.
Use the dirty dingo : Chevrolet GMC LS 1967-72 4X4 LS1 Conversion Swap Cross Member

Its a bolt together design and works perfect.

2wd its just diff mounts 4wd adds a curveball
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I wasn’t sure if that was just because a lot of the engine mounts move the drivetrain forward, but if they sat the engine back to keep the bell housing in the factory location the oil pans cleared better.
 
iwaxmyjimmy said:
I wasn’t sure if that was just because a lot of the engine mounts move the drivetrain forward, but if they sat the engine back to keep the bell housing in the factory location the oil pans cleared better.
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You can’t clear the stock cross member and the hog head and drive shaft without a crazy notch/channel in the oil pan.
 
justjeepin86 said:
That's the case even with a stock 4x4 truck?

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Yes with an LS. They dont make motor mounts to bolt it in...a few companies sell them and then in the comments it will say "may require oil pan modification" or similar.
If you put 2.5" of lift under the front then you can clear....that .5 is critical 2" springs wont clear and the oil pan contacting the hoghead at highway speeds will knock a hole in it...been there done that got the t shirt...
 
justjeepin86 said:
That's good info. If I axle swap, it will change that too, likely. Just have to play it as it comes.
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If you are keeping it "stock" and want to swap to a DSD front...spend a lot of design time around the steering box measurements.
I didnt ever seriously try it but did look at it for 5 minutes and I think it would have to be addressed.
 
Aren't there any aftermarket oil pan that would clear the crossmember ? Like the Holley Muscle car one (it's very low profile).
 
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