Metal Fab Question:

Pacfanweb

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Oct 6, 2006
Location
Wake Forest
Didn't know what forum might be more "proper" than this one, so feel free to move if it should be elsewhere.

Working on my old CJ project. Been sitting a LOOOONG time, due to health issues that started not long after I got going on it. (joint issues, nothing internal. 2 shoulder surgeries, 2 knees, neck)

So I'm better and want to get this thing done.
My hood looks like this
20170914_190001.jpg


Other than that place, and some to the left of it, it's very solid, and it's the one that's been on it since I bought it in 1986.
So I figured I could probably fix it. If not, I'll get another one, but just for the heck of it, why not?

Cut that bad section out:
20170914_192511.jpg

Here's the piece:
20170914_192709.jpg

Now, I can riggedy-rig up a piece of sheet metal with that same fold in it, but how in the world can I do that AND get that arc in it? I've tried a couple of things so far and it hasn't worked.

Any suggestions?

The other little sections that are cut out, no prob. I can handle them. But that curved part is baffling.

What's really weird is that hood sat outside for a good long time. The part that's rusted was up in the air, and the other end was sitting on the ground. In the dirt. And it's solid as a rock. But the part that did NOT sit in the moist dirt rusted through. Go figure.
 
Bending a radius stretches the outside and compresses the inside. In simple sheet and real good tube benders this inner stress doesn't translate visually. In your piece it shows when a gradual increasing radius is needed in two planes. What you have. Curvature off the hood and curvature back upon its self to make a rounded nose. This is the job of a shrinker and stretcher. Compound curves are achievable but for really gradual work and smooth longer sheet work a planishing hammer with dies for putting a dome a cross a sheet and another for shrinking along a face work rather well. Topped off with rolling work on an English wheel for a truely flowing consistent panel.
All of what your doing could be done rather cheaply with a shot bag and shapping hammers. Certain faces offer the action of shrinking and stretching if used correctly on the right sufaces.

Check into Metal working text and videos by Ron Covell. The work can be time consuming but very rewarding.
 
Also your going to have to make sections rather than trying to reproduce the stamped section. If you do manage to make it in one piece.....I'm coming over for lessons.
 
I personally would form the outer radius. Shrink and form the rolled edge until it starts to tuck. Then form the under side to match. Put my seem low and underneath. I would also make the outer cut high enough to properly dolly the finished weld for a better flowing panel and repair. Heat is going to pull it some. Work slow or your going to have a greatly distorted curvature and a sunk in corner.
 
I'd just weld build up the whole thing solid, then grind it down to shape. That's why I don't do body work.
 
Mac5005 said:
If you want an alternative down and dirty fix for trail use

Fill the back side with great stuff foam.

Once cured scrape/cut away excess.

Instead of bondo, get some "all metal". It works like aluminum filled bondo. Fill areas on front with it, using the cured foam as support for it.

Grind down smooth and primer/paint
Click to expand...
That was going to be my suggestion. Used that method on rockers of my old explorer.

But at the time I didn't have a welder or know how to weld. If I did, probably would have done it differently.
 
This Jeep is going to be more of a "drive around to shows and in parades" than on trails. I'll probably take it down some light trails and maybe a little mud, but not building it to scrape over every rock pile I can find. I wouldn't even bother painting it if that was the case. Did enough wheeling with it 30 years ago. It's time for it to look good and just be driven, more than anything else.
Plus, it's going to be painted black, so any repair has to be right or it'll look like crap.
 
Pacfanweb said:
This Jeep is going to be more of a "drive around to shows and in parades" than on trails. I'll probably take it down some light trails and maybe a little mud, but not building it to scrape over every rock pile I can find. I wouldn't even bother painting it if that was the case. Did enough wheeling with it 30 years ago. It's time for it to look good and just be driven, more than anything else.
Plus, it's going to be painted black, so any repair has to be right or it'll look like crap.
Click to expand...
New Hood.
 
I fixed it. Ended up repairing the piece I cut out. Couldn't figure a way to bend and make that turn as the same time.

Is roughed in now, need to weld another few plugs of metal into it a grind it down, and then some final body work, but it's in there and
came out okay, I think.
 
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