Metal Garage pros vs cons?

jovibuilt

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 1, 2006
Location
spruce pine nc
I am in the market for a garage and I thought I would do metal vs pole barn or stick built. I know some on here have metal buildings or are very knowledgeable on them. I mainly plan on using it for storage of cars motorcycles. I do plan on insulating it later. Size 24 x 30 x 10. I am not sold on versa tube because of to many bad stories on YouTube. Anyone heard of Triad carports and metal structures from Lexington? They offer concrete and setup. Example a
24x40x10
2-9x8 RUD
1 Walk In Door
4” Concrete Pad
is $13000 plus tax. Please give me some advice. I want a decent building but I do have a budget I need to stick too. Thank you.
 
With concrete? That sounds insanely good. I need a 30x50 or 60 and I need site prep done first. I can't get any good info about total cost. I'm probably going to settle for a container now and building later.
 
Insulating metal is a different approach than stick built. Be prepared for that.
Also, you may or may not get a cell signal inside (Faraday cage effect). Which... may or may not be a good thing depending on your lifestyle.
 
My dad paid to have his new metal building “insulated” it’s just the foil looking bubble wrap. I laughed at it for the cost. But it’s seems to work very well. I can tell his building is much more regulated and air tight than many others I have seen.
 
I am in the market for a garage and I thought I would do metal vs pole barn or stick built. I know some on here have metal buildings or are very knowledgeable on them. I mainly plan on using it for storage of cars motorcycles. I do plan on insulating it later. Size 24 x 30 x 10. I am not sold on versa tube because of to many bad stories on YouTube. Anyone heard of Triad carports and metal structures from Lexington? They offer concrete and setup. Example a
24x40x10
2-9x8 RUD
1 Walk In Door
4” Concrete Pad
is $13000 plus tax. Please give me some advice. I want a decent building but I do have a budget I need to stick too. Thank you.

Appreciate the referrals fellas. Jesse and Triad are good people (considered buying them at one point). They get their metal from me. He’s even built a few carports for me when my crew is too busy. If you want additional quotes…I’d definitely see what the best price I could do through me, for you. But you can see some of triads orders on my shelf…

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The green carports are the ones he put up for me about 6 months ago…

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Also, you may or may not get a cell signal inside (Faraday cage effect). Which... may or may not be a good thing depending on your lifestyle
I had this problem in my metal building for years. I installed a wifi 6 mesh system in my house and shop and enabled wifi calling on my cell phones and it has solved my problems. I have an iPhone and android and both work great now in my shop.
 
The cheap bubble wrap style insulation they offer is worth getting on the ceiling if you're not going to have it spray foamed. The bubble wrap style insulation will keep the condensation from raining down all over the inside of the building. My Dad has a 30x45x10 that has the bubble wrap insulation on the ceiling. It's crazy the price difference from 2018 when he got his building to now. His 30x45x10 with bubble wrap on the ceiling, installed with concrete was $11,300 in 2018. I priced the same building last year and it was $28,000 from the same company.

I'm building a 50x60x12 pole barn style shop soon, waiting for the county to approve my permit. Going to build it as an open pole barn with gravel floor then next Spring I'll have the concrete poured and then hopefully get it closed in during the summer. Doing all the work myself (minus the concrete) and building it in phases so that I can spread out the expense.
 
Not trying to hijack the post, just following along... This has me SERIOUSLY thinking about doing this exact same thing for just car storage to free up space in my shop. This would allow me to park 2 vehicles plus the golf cart and 4-wheeler in there and get them out of my shop. Ben, I'd be interested in getting a quote from you as well if the offer is open to any of us. I'm not dead set on it having to be those exact dimensions, but would like to keep it at least 24 wide so that I could back my CCSB (roughly 21ft) in and close the door.

Not sure what provides the most useable space, RUD separated by big space and WID in the center like pictured in Triads post, or the two RUD on one side and all the open space on other side of the building with the WID.
 
The cheap bubble wrap style insulation they offer is worth getting on the ceiling if you're not going to have it spray foamed. The bubble wrap style insulation will keep the condensation from raining down all over the inside of the building. My Dad has a 30x45x10 that has the bubble wrap insulation on the ceiling. It's crazy the price difference from 2018 when he got his building to now. His 30x45x10 with bubble wrap on the ceiling, installed with concrete was $11,300 in 2018. I priced the same building last year and it was $28,000 from the same company.

I'm building a 50x60x12 pole barn style shop soon, waiting for the county to approve my permit. Going to build it as an open pole barn with gravel floor then next Spring I'll have the concrete poured and then hopefully get it closed in during the summer. Doing all the work myself (minus the concrete) and building it in phases so that I can spread out the expense.
This is what I'm leaning towards doing too. Only difference is I plan to have the poles on the concrete or concrete footers.
 
Ben, I'd be interested in getting a quote from you as well if the offer is open to any of us. I'm not dead set on it having to be those exact dimensions, but would like to keep it at least 24 wide so that I could back my CCSB (roughly 21ft) in and close the door.

Absolutely...shoot me a note with some specs and I'll get anyone in contact with one of my sales folks.
 
My Shop is also 24X30 with 12' walls.
Pros:
Other than some leaks at first(I think the guy on the roof either had his impact gun set wrong, or, it was just worn out). They come back on twisted the screws in better, since then, no leaks)
No condensation issues at all
I have a woodstove for heat in the winter, aided by ceiling fans it keeps it decent in very cold weather.(Un-insulated)
With the concrete poured, 3 Mexican guys rolled in at 6:30 am, one break due to rain(15 mins or so) and they were packing up tools before 2:00pm. These buildings go up FAST
Conduit for electric is easy, as is plumbing for air.
Cons:
Un-insulated, it really sucks in hot weather, 95 outside, with two ceiling fans lifting hot air, an exhaust fan at eve pushing hot air out, three floor fans, and a small fan at the top of my walk through door, as said 95 outside, it'll be 105 and above inside, with all those fans running!!
heavy rain, no leaks but, loud as hell, forget listening to the radio or having a conversation.
I have roll up doors, supossed to be 10', but only measure when up to be like 9'6" To d it again, I'd get the track type.
When doors closed, drum gets smaller, so 4-5" gap to loose heat in the winter.
Don't pour concrete on a hot or windy day, my concrete cracked before I could do the relief cuts, Also fought leaves and spriggly things while trying to finish the concrete. (Several fossils in my concrete).
With a lift, and shelves or tool boxes and roll around things, only one bay is open for anything(as said, mine is a shop, not just to store in. My son Josh and Jason built a 24X36, and that extra 6' is a game changer for welding tables, jacks, tables and so on.
the 24' part, you can fit a crew cab short bed in, barely, a crew cab long bed, won't happen, at least with bay doors closed
As said, so far, I do not have insulation, but in figuring out costs and how much it'll take using anything other than spray foam, lot of waist since the wall studs are more than 48"
Lowes foam board is outrageous as far as cost, Market place 5 yrs ago was about $10 for 2" 4X8 sheets, now, most is $24 and up! Lowes is about double that. (My plan is eventually 2" on ceilings and 1" on the walls. (I'd really love to hear real experience in the foil faced bubble stuff, as seems Spray on is way out of my budget. )
Cell service sucks inside. As does radio reception I had to put up a external antenna.

If I were to do it again, knowing what I know now, it's be at least 30X 36 or larger
I would have it insulated as it was built or before I put ANYTHING inside. as now, with every wall covered with shelves, it's gonna be a pain in the ass to insulate
I would have gone with a lighter covered roof, as mine is dark gray, almost black, and sucks the heat in. a reflective material would have been much better.
Pests were mentioned. I've seen boring bees and termites mentioned, I've seen one mouse(Sketch, my dog took care of it) my only pest is spiders, wolf spiders love nesting in the ribs, some the size of tarantulas!!
I think with the insulation, a mini split would work great!
 
@UTfball68 does your company do/contract the concrete work if needed? Is there a span distance where things start to get significantly more expensive? Any dos or don'ts you would recommend? A metal building is high on my list after my transplant.

Duane
 
@UTfball68 does your company do/contract the concrete work if needed? Is there a span distance where things start to get significantly more expensive? Any dos or don'ts you would recommend? A metal building is high on my list after my transplant.

Duane

Yes...we'll do the concrete work (or at least sub it out). I'd say right now today, things are relatively linear, with the caveat of smaller jobs will cost you more on a per foot basis, just because there are enough 'big jobs' most guys aren't wanting to leave money on the table. The only real 'don't' I personally have in my business, is when the customer tries to start playing the GC/super intendent with 'he knows a guy' or 'will do X part himself'...just creates too much headache and then usually more expense.
 
If you plan on insulation do it now if you can afford, batting seemed to be the best among my research. To make it look nice it needs to be put up as it's being built. It is however pricey. Skip the roll up doors and put for real, insulated, garage doors. I put in side mount lift motors on my garage doors so I would not have a third track hanging in the center, again pricey but worth doing if insulating. I have 3 ton mini split that will heat and cool without issue. I spent extra $$$ to avoid having mine look and feel like a big metal box in the back yard. So 1500sq',12' walls, floor coating, concrete, HVAC ,rear drive way, wired, plumbed turn key was in the 50k neighborhood. That was with me doing nothing but making phone calls to sub contractors. I only tell you the total expense because I couldn't get that answer out of anyone I asked before having it built.
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If you plan on insulation do it now if you can afford, batting seemed to be the best among my research. To make it look nice it needs to be put up as it's being built. It is however pricey. Skip the roll up doors and put for real, insulated, garage doors. I put in side mount lift motors on my garage doors so I would not have a third track hanging in the center, again pricey but worth doing if insulating. I have 3 ton mini split that will heat and cool without issue. I spent extra $$$ to avoid having mine look and feel like a big metal box in the back yard. So 1500sq',12' walls, floor coating, concrete, HVAC ,rear drive way, wired, plumbed turn key was in the 50k neighborhood. That was with me doing nothing but making phone calls to sub contractors. I only tell you the total expense because I couldn't get that answer out of anyone I asked before having i
Projector included? Nice mancave!
 
If you plan on insulation do it now if you can afford, batting seemed to be the best among my research. To make it look nice it needs to be put up as it's being built. It is however pricey. Skip the roll up doors and put for real, insulated, garage doors. I put in side mount lift motors on my garage doors so I would not have a third track hanging in the center, again pricey but worth doing if insulating. I have 3 ton mini split that will heat and cool without issue. I spent extra $$$ to avoid having mine look and feel like a big metal box in the back yard. So 1500sq',12' walls, floor coating, concrete, HVAC ,rear drive way, wired, plumbed turn key was in the 50k neighborhood. That was with me doing nothing but making phone calls to sub contractors. I only tell you the total expense because I couldn't get that answer out of anyone I asked before having it built.View attachment 422523View attachment 422524View attachment 422528
24x60? Happy with the mini split it sounds like? I’m insulating my 1400sqft with 13ft walls next week and am contemplating what size mini split. I was considering a dual zone 3 ton, and it sounds like we have similar sized buildings.
 
Y'all big money folks can do what you want, but we slapped a $900, 2 ton window unit in my dad's shop and it walks the dog. 1200sqft, stick built, insulated ceiling, 13ft uninsulated walls, 2 insulated garage doors. The opening for the unit is framed up nice and hangs out the back where no one sees it. He put it up high so it distributes well across the area. He doesn't leave it on all the time either. If he's going to be piddling around in there, he'll walk down and turn it on 30mins earlier and it will be nice when hes ready to work. It has plenty of run time so it dehumidifiers well. To hell with spending 5g on a minisplit
 
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