more 22re troubles

92illpony

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2005
Location
Dalton, Ga
So i had most of the parts to do a tune up but i decided to change the cap and rotor yesterday. Popped old cap off, pulled rotor. Put new rotor on. Installed new cap. Hooked old plug wires back up. Fire truck up and idles great. Go to work this morning and under any throttle it has what feels like a major misfire. Just stumbles and stutters. Has very little power. Came back home and replaced the cap/rotor with the old stuff. Same problems. Put new plugs and wires on and same problems.

Truck will idle great but upon any throttle application it misses. I did notice that while driving and you down shift and roll it doesn't miss but once throttle is applied it misses. I also unplugged the Throttle sensor and see if it changed anything and it didn't.
 
Sounds like an advance problem to me. Did you maybe crack one of the vacuum lines that go to the distributor?
 
thousand percent sure on the firing order. quadruple checked. I pulled the throttle body and adjusted the TPS and technically it checks good but i'm still throwing the TPS code. I pulled the battery cable and the codes were still stored. I'm running out of things to check.
 
Did you check to see if you cracked a spark plug?? Pull all of your plugs back out, run your fingernail across the porcelin see if there are any cracks if so replace that plug as the spark is escaping and grounding.
 
I dont understand how you are having so many problems with the runner. It always fired right up and ran great for me. I think someone put some voodoo on you.
 
i replaced the plugs after the original cap/rotor didn't fix it. So it has new plugs, new wires, and currently on the old cap/rotor. I didn't put the new ones back on when it didn't change anything. I'm over the tedious headaches with this thing.
 
Get a timing light and see if the spark advance is working.
 
Timing was 5 degrees off. Tested tps again and it failed. One pin appears to broken free. You can pull it out an 1/8th inch or so. Also noticed the case was broken and someone previously put some sealant on it. Just need to find another and hopefully it will run smoothly again.
 
Did you check to see if the spark advance works? I.E. with the timing light shining on the balancer at idle, you should be +or- a few degrees. (Probably retarded 3-4 or so) Snap the throttle. The timing mark should move + a bunch. Maybe as much as 30 degrees. It's been a long time since I've done this so I can't remember exactly how many but it should NOT stay at the same place it is at idle.
 
we played with it some tonight. swapped computers. no change. swapped AFM with no change. Pulled valve cover and checked to make sure timing was lined up. Pulled distributor out and adjusted it slightly. We got the truck to run different and now it runs crazy rich. Gonna attempt an o2 sensor tomorrow and see if it does anything. Everything seems to be working as it should minus the o2 sensor. Now the truck has a consistant sound although its not a nice running smooth sound it stopped the intermittent sputter. Hoping an o2 will clear it up. Seems like its over fueling now.
 
Still working on this thing. Did figure out a way to get it to idle without a stumble. If i pull the 2 lines off the charcoal canister and hook them together it will idle great. Also noticed that if i pull the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator that nothing changes. Not sure if it should.
 
you prolly found the reason for the skip but when you were timing it did you put a jumper in the diagnostic plug? if not timing is not right. the (base) timing is supposed to be set at 5 deg. thats with the jumper in it. the computer will advance it where it wants it but it is programmed to work from 5 deg base timing.
 
timing is with it jumper in place. The spark advance deal works also. I need to check fuel pressure. I need to look into how to do this.
 
The other thing it could be is a plugged exhaust. Does it still have a cat on it?
 
going to buy fuel filter and fuel screen for the tank tomorrow. Also gonna pick up a fuel pressure gauge and vacuum gauge. I'm super stumped along with everyone else so far.
 
With your terminals jumpered in the diagnostic port you "should" notice the engine idle speed slow down. If not your tps is not functioning as it should. Base timing should be set to 5* btdc (before top dead center) with the jumper in and idle speed set to 700 rpms. Thats a good place to start your process of elimination. If you don't have a good base line just throwing new parts on it without direction will hurt your piggy bank. . . hit me back if i can help you once youve knocked that out.
 
thanks for the help but timing was one of the first things we checked. Timing is perfect. Daughter has cheerleading tonight but once i get home the fuel filter is going on. If that doesn't fix it going to pick up some vacuum and fuel pressure gauges.
 
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