More help needed Please!

ShimShim

ShimShim

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 21, 2005
Location
Charlotte, NC
See new post and pics for new help needed with my little project that is becoming more than I can complete. Maybe I shoulda just paid someone.


Anyone have a right angle drill they'd be willing to let me borrow. I need it to extract two manifold bolts and really don't want to buy something I'm going to use for an hour. I can find attachments, but they're more suited for screwing things as they've got a magnetic hex head receiver. I need something with an actual chuck that'll let me use drill bits. If you're in the Charlotte area and have something I can borrow, please help a brotha out.

Something like this:

Drill.jpg
 
Last edited:
If the west or southwest side of town is easier for you, I have a Milwaukee one.
 
Well, the right angle drill helped with one of the bolts. Would have helped with the next if I got the hole centered. But I didn't. And before I do any damage to the block, I think I'm gonna need to weld a nut to the stud to back it out. But I don't have a welder.

Anyone local to Charlotte, that has a welder they could bring to me and feels comfortable helping me with this? I do not have any welding skills or a welder.

I'm attaching a few pics to show what we're dealing with an the amount of room available. Obviously I'm willing to pay for someone's time and materials.

IMG_1447 copy.jpg


IMG_1448 copy.jpg


IMG_1449.jpg


IMG_1450.jpg
 
Question? Most manifold bolts I came across broke do to seizing in the exhaust manifold. Broken flush they come out after you get a hold of them. So in an aluminum head what is the culprit?

Reason being is a lot of broken bolts I get out are under little tension after the part being retained is removed (unless seated in the bottom of the bore depth. I often weld a washer if its bellow flush a hair then a nut. If its deep I do the through a tube/pipe stick rod trick. Saves the thread this way and keeps you from welding to the side wall done correctly.
 
WARRIORWELDING said:
Question? Most manifold bolts I came across broke do to seizing in the exhaust manifold. Broken flush they come out after you get a hold of them. So in an aluminum head what is the culprit?

Reason being is a lot of broken bolts I get out are under little tension after the part being retained is removed (unless seated in the bottom of the bore depth. I often weld a washer if its bellow flush a hair then a nut. If its deep I do the through a tube/pipe stick rod trick. Saves the thread this way and keeps you from welding to the side wall done correctly.
Click to expand...
There’s no tension on it. I’ve gotten it to turn just a tiny bit with left handed drill bits. But I got the hole off center drilling for the left handed bit to bite. And now I’m worried I’ll damage the threads in the head. That’s the reason for abandoning that method and looking to go the welded but route.
In short, can’t get anything to grip and worried I’m gonna cause super expensive damage.
 
I can't find the video, you can Google broken taps dissolved in alum. People make a damn out of putty and heat the solution, the bolt gets eaten away (goes into solution) and can be pulled out of the hole.
 




These will get you started, the videos are awful, but this is the basics. Build a damn out of playdough and hold the solution up against the bolt for a while (a couple hours/a day).
 
you can also try to start a new center with a center punch. If you start with a small enough bit, it will stick to your new punch location instead of following your pre-existing off center drill point.

You can also just run at your off center point with a significantly undersized drill. You would be surprised how little the through hole has to be to allow a bolt to collapse enough to walk out.
 
For flush broken bolts mig welder and a washer or nut, 5 minute job. For bolts studs broken below the surface or deep in the hole."X-Tractalloy™ rods never fails me.
 
You need a guy with a welder and that'll be a quick deal. Don't fuck it up more.
I'd help but I'm kinda far from Charlotte...
 
kaiser715 said:
I've had luck using a grinding point on a dremel to fix the 'oops' of an off-centered drilling attempt. Get a dip back in the center, then go back to the drill (preferably a left-handed bit, and as it comes loose, it will spin it out as you drill).
Click to expand...

shelby27604 said:
you can also try to start a new center with a center punch. If you start with a small enough bit, it will stick to your new punch location instead of following your pre-existing off center drill point.

You can also just run at your off center point with a significantly undersized drill. You would be surprised how little the through hole has to be to allow a bolt to collapse enough to walk out.
Click to expand...
Been there, tried that, my oops is too far gone.
Futbalfantic said:
I’m going to throw the simplest answer out there… Buy a new engine.
Click to expand...
Haha, are we talking Hemi swap the Hemi? Or LS? Think a cummins would fit in there?
Brud720 said:
For flush broken bolts mig welder and a washer or nut, 5 minute job. For bolts studs broken below the surface or deep in the hole."X-Tractalloy™ rods never fails me.
Click to expand...
This is the route I'll end up going.
DSM Turbos said:
No need to go that extreme, just buy a new car.
Click to expand...
I'm pretty sure a Cummins swap would be cheaper. Anyone know when the cybertruck will be available?
CarolinaHD said:
I got a welder i just have 0 time in the near future to get down there unfortunately
Click to expand...
Thanks for the offer. Oh and I'll be returning your right angle drill tomorrow. Worked wonders on the passenger side.
 
Thanks everyone for all the suggestions. It's been a frustrating task. I'm going the welder route tomorrow. Got a guy coming to tackle it for what I think is a fair price. I'll update with results.
 
Back
Top