motor oil

TRC&P25

TRC&P25

New Member
Joined
Jul 6, 2008
Location
kannapolis
putting my 22r back togther from a full rebuild, pistons, rings, crawler cam etc, whats the best oil to run. I ran havoline in it before but i wanted see what yall run in your motors, thanks!
 
As a professional technician, I vote you run what you want. Just change it every so often, though it doesn't need to be anywhere near as often as 3000 miles. That's a waste of money. Every 5 or so on conventional and closer to 10 on synthetic. BMW runs 15-18k on Castrol Syntec and we have very few engine problems due to oiling issues. On your rebuild I'd change it at the first 1500 or so after initial break in.
 
in my opinion, if you are going to beat it, use a heavier weight oil, the added viscosity will be more of a 'cushion' when lugging the engine at low RPM's I ran 20w50 Castrol in my Runner after I rebuilt the enigne, beat it pretty hard for over 100k after the rebuild, never had issue, did loose a bit of gas mileage though with the heavier oil.
 
Rotella is what I run in my 22r, but I'm also turboed and propane... I run that stuff in all my vechiles though. Walmart has the best price on it at 10.50 a gallon..
 
I run Amsoil in all my vehicles. I run the 25K mile stuff and love it. Pricey initially, but I only have to change every 25K miles
 
I also run rotella in everything. It does not however have the zinc additive any more. If you want something that has zinc you will have to run chevron dello.
 
Depends on what I am driving and the purpose of the vehicle.
Only thing I am really picky on is the bike.
I run Mobil1 full synthetic 4T (motorcycle oil) in the bike.
And I always do that myself.

In cages, I prefer Castrol or Mobil 1, but honestly I have found whatever crap they serve out of the 50 gal barrel works fine.
And I usually have that done for me due to time and price is almost as cheap as doing it yourself (sometimes cheaper).
 
Oil is oil. The only differences are additives some put in .
Regardless of the name on the label, most comes from the same few distributors and put in their own bottle.

Just fer instance, when I worked on circle track race cars we ran Kendall 1 ..... because they gave us the best sponser deal.

If yer picky, use Havoline for the first couple of changes , then use whatever is the cheapest.


Matt
 
on horsepower tv today they said people run rotella to do break ins but that you shouldnt keep runnin it cause it will sludge up but never gave a reason.
if it was me personally id just run valvoline or the like in the weight that is recommended for the engine.
 
Rotella. It wont build up the sludge, thats why it's recomended for diesel engines. Like Voodoo said for hammering it on the trails you need a heavier oil.
 
I'll put in another .02

Particularly for flat tappet cams... Royal Purple and Red Line make a "break in" oil. - Has extra Zinc, Phosphorus ?? like said after that run what you want.
 
i run 15-40 in all my race bikes and truck bc u can over heat the crap out of ur truck and that oil dose not brake down like most oils do my crawler is a toyota with a 20r and last year at ure i stuck a branch thur my radator and drove it like that all day when she would git stiming to were i wasint aboul to see then stop agaen but i can go out and ture the key and it will fire right up and per like a kittin thats 15-40 and wedsday motor lol
 
Jeff B said:
Rotella. It wont build up the sludge, thats why it's recomended for diesel engines. Like Voodoo said for hammering it on the trails you need a heavier oil.
Click to expand...

I was just sayin thats what they said and was wonderin if there was an answer but was never given one.
I had never heard of that until yesterday and I kinda scratched my head at it.
 
rattlecanpaint said:
As a professional technician, I vote you run what you want. Just change it every so often, though it doesn't need to be anywhere near as often as 3000 miles. That's a waste of money. Every 5 or so on conventional and closer to 10 on synthetic. BMW runs 15-18k on Castrol Syntec and we have very few engine problems due to oiling issues. On your rebuild I'd change it at the first 1500 or so after initial break in.
Click to expand...
I've worked on mercedes and BMWs since the late 80's. The cars that had the oil changed religiously at 5k or less will keep going and going. The cars I see that have followed the 10k-15k oil change intervals look like total shit under the valve cover (@100k plus miles) and usually have oil consumption problems much sooner than the 5k and below serviced cars. The crankcase vent valves on the V8 BMWs like to stop up around 100k with longer service intervals. I've had the benefit of servicing cars from the time they were close to new until they had 300-500k on them and have seen the differences in service schedules and the effect in the long run. But to answer your question:...I run 50 wieght Valvoline XRC race oil in mine and change it after 3-4 weekends of riding. I know it's overkill ,but changing oil is cheap in the long run. It also gets beat every time it's taken out.
 
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