mbalbritton
#@$%!
- Joined
- Mar 22, 2005
- Location
- Orlando, FL
Hadn’t heard one before. That’s interesting.
My first engine “build”
- Thread starter mbalbritton
- Start date
Shreddinlettuce
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2016
- Location
- Hickory
mbalbritton
#@$%!
- Joined
- Mar 22, 2005
- Location
- Orlando, FL
mbalbritton
#@$%!
- Joined
- Mar 22, 2005
- Location
- Orlando, FL
Pretty sure I found the source of my ticking. If I’m right, Thanks again China for another example of your Quality. When this thing does crap out, I’ll replace with a domestic built product.
So, I stick a screw driver to the distributor cap and the other end to my ear and the ticking was VERY LOUD. Pulled the dizzy, stuck my old dizzy shaft from the 258, that I saved, on the drill and ran the oil pump. It was smooth and quiet.
Spin the shaft on the new HEI dizzy with the drill and there was the sound! Pulled the cap and inspected, no witness marks everything looks clean, spun the shaft again and the clicking was louder and coming from under the rotor. Pulled the rotor and at first thought it was loose advance weights, I decided to stay on my current path and I removed the weights and spun the shaft again. Still there. On closer inspection I saw marks on the magnetic pick ups. One of the points on the shaft side of the pick up was contacting one of the points on the static side.
I pulled the cam shaft gear and slid the shaft up then filed the point back checking all points for clearance. Put it all back and spun it with no contacting and no noise.
I am reluctant to save solved as of yet, as I don’t like the way the advance weights seem to be loose on their mounting shafts, but we will see. Might buy new weights and lighter springs anyway.
Had to stop before getting it all back in and tested. But if it wasn’t the magnetic pick ups, then it’s the mechanical advance. That’s much easier to get to.
I had also dropped the oil pan and rear main cap to inspect the rear main seal. Seal looks good, I think I just didn’t get the corners RTV’d right or good enough.
But I also question the way the ends of the upper part of the Rear main seal sit. They push out. Thoughts? Should they sit flush? It’s the same on both sides.
So, I stick a screw driver to the distributor cap and the other end to my ear and the ticking was VERY LOUD. Pulled the dizzy, stuck my old dizzy shaft from the 258, that I saved, on the drill and ran the oil pump. It was smooth and quiet.
Spin the shaft on the new HEI dizzy with the drill and there was the sound! Pulled the cap and inspected, no witness marks everything looks clean, spun the shaft again and the clicking was louder and coming from under the rotor. Pulled the rotor and at first thought it was loose advance weights, I decided to stay on my current path and I removed the weights and spun the shaft again. Still there. On closer inspection I saw marks on the magnetic pick ups. One of the points on the shaft side of the pick up was contacting one of the points on the static side.
I pulled the cam shaft gear and slid the shaft up then filed the point back checking all points for clearance. Put it all back and spun it with no contacting and no noise.
I am reluctant to save solved as of yet, as I don’t like the way the advance weights seem to be loose on their mounting shafts, but we will see. Might buy new weights and lighter springs anyway.
Had to stop before getting it all back in and tested. But if it wasn’t the magnetic pick ups, then it’s the mechanical advance. That’s much easier to get to.
I had also dropped the oil pan and rear main cap to inspect the rear main seal. Seal looks good, I think I just didn’t get the corners RTV’d right or good enough.
But I also question the way the ends of the upper part of the Rear main seal sit. They push out. Thoughts? Should they sit flush? It’s the same on both sides.
mbalbritton
#@$%!
- Joined
- Mar 22, 2005
- Location
- Orlando, FL
Pulled rear main bearing cap again because I still didn’t like the way the tab ends of the lower rear main seal were protruding.
What I found was the rubber mold flashing around the tabs was interfering with the ends seating properly. Something I was unaware of to look for. Some online searching says it’s common to have to trim.
And after
And seated properly and flush.
Soooo, that lead to cleaning the block to reinstall the oil pan and I noticed this…
SON OF A …
I don’t recall there being that much slack in the chain. I know these will pick up slack, but that much that fast? Debating on buttoning everything up and watching the timing really close to look for spastic timing. Engine runs good and I didn’t notice it when timing the engine. Also not hearing any chain slap.
Ugh…
What I found was the rubber mold flashing around the tabs was interfering with the ends seating properly. Something I was unaware of to look for. Some online searching says it’s common to have to trim.
And after
And seated properly and flush.
Soooo, that lead to cleaning the block to reinstall the oil pan and I noticed this…
SON OF A …
I don’t recall there being that much slack in the chain. I know these will pick up slack, but that much that fast? Debating on buttoning everything up and watching the timing really close to look for spastic timing. Engine runs good and I didn’t notice it when timing the engine. Also not hearing any chain slap.
Ugh…
mbalbritton
#@$%!
- Joined
- Mar 22, 2005
- Location
- Orlando, FL
Looking at the chain, it looks like the front half is rubbing on the housing.
No bueno.
I don’t recall if I used the chain that was in the engine (possibly OE) or if I used the fairly new replacement from my 258. I have heard factory are better than replacement quality, so I’m not sure how that might calculate into this.
Found an old pict from the tear down for comparison:
Either way, I’m really thinking about swapping over to a double roller. They’re not to pricey, soooo… thoughts on double roller or a suggestion on a quality silent chain replacement?
No bueno.
I don’t recall if I used the chain that was in the engine (possibly OE) or if I used the fairly new replacement from my 258. I have heard factory are better than replacement quality, so I’m not sure how that might calculate into this.
Found an old pict from the tear down for comparison:
Either way, I’m really thinking about swapping over to a double roller. They’re not to pricey, soooo… thoughts on double roller or a suggestion on a quality silent chain replacement?
Last edited:
Shreddinlettuce
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2016
- Location
- Hickory
There’s a urethane damper on the timing cover that tensions the chain 14 in the diagram, newer engines have chains that have plastic pieces with springs of oil pressure that hold them tight
mbalbritton
#@$%!
- Joined
- Mar 22, 2005
- Location
- Orlando, FL
Ya, I do recall it being there on assembly, but I did question myself on that today looking at this slack. We shall see!
Shreddinlettuce
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2016
- Location
- Hickory
They have slack when running the slack on the tight drive side is taken up by torque, the other side runs on that snubber. Should be in spec for the link separation if new. Chains don’t stretch so much as the pins and interfaces to the pins get worn and allow the plates to slide further
mbalbritton
#@$%!
- Joined
- Mar 22, 2005
- Location
- Orlando, FL
Got the dizzy back in, oil pan reinstalled, and all buttoned back up.
Found I had a misfire. WTF! Checked and chased all wires, pulled cap, inspected… tried again, misfire! Pulled plugs, and #2 was wet. WTF!
Checked it all again…
.
.
.
Note to self dumb ass, this is twice I’ve done this now. 1-5-3-6-2-4 NOT 1-5-3-6-4-2!!! DAMN IT MAN!
Fire it up and now there’s a whistle and it runs like shit at idle. FUCK! Looking everywhere for a vac leak. And on bottom side a rubber nipple fell off a vac source, how I still don’t understand.
Plug it and she’s running great. Dizzy is quiet and all. As things warm up a loud tick comes back. Chase it to the back of the engine, crawl under and find its an exhaust leak in the cobbled together exhaust. Cool!
Not cool is the rear main seal leak that is worse than before…
Fuck it, going inside for a scotch. Good night.
Found I had a misfire. WTF! Checked and chased all wires, pulled cap, inspected… tried again, misfire! Pulled plugs, and #2 was wet. WTF!
Checked it all again…
.
.
.
Note to self dumb ass, this is twice I’ve done this now. 1-5-3-6-2-4 NOT 1-5-3-6-4-2!!! DAMN IT MAN!
Fire it up and now there’s a whistle and it runs like shit at idle. FUCK! Looking everywhere for a vac leak. And on bottom side a rubber nipple fell off a vac source, how I still don’t understand.
Plug it and she’s running great. Dizzy is quiet and all. As things warm up a loud tick comes back. Chase it to the back of the engine, crawl under and find its an exhaust leak in the cobbled together exhaust. Cool!
Not cool is the rear main seal leak that is worse than before…
Fuck it, going inside for a scotch. Good night.