My ultimate DD/Tow Rig

Engine Possibilities, Just Wondering

  • 377 LS1 Stroker with LS6 intake, Ported Heads, All Forged Shortblock, cam swap

    Votes: 8 47.1%

  • 5.3L(327) LS1 Forged Pistons with a Supercharger

    Votes: 1 5.9%

  • Bore the 5.3 to 5.7 and AFR "Mongoose Heads", cam swap

    Votes: 1 5.9%

  • Stock 5.3L, cam swap, ported heads,

    Votes: 2 11.8%

  • Any of the above with Blower

    Votes: 1 5.9%

  • Any of the above with Blower and/OR Nitrous

    Votes: 4 23.5%
  • Total voters
    17
  • Poll closed .
everyone has already told you to junk the 5.3 for a number of legitimate reasons, but you keep defending it.

it sounds like you've already made up your mind to me.

besides the technical aspects, keep in mind just because you got something cheap doesn't mean you have to use it OR that it's your best option.
 
I would put a Cummins in it from all the benefits youd have with a diesel. And while your at it make it run of veggie oil.
 
i dont have my mind made up completely, its about 75% sure, i would swap a cummins, but to get the cummins, tranny, and transfer case, in my mind, i worked it out to be about, if not more, 3 grand...while i can have the 5.3 stroked and running for about 1200, weve ran a stroked 5.7L ls1 with stock heads and cam, on the dyno, and it made 355 hp, and 480 ftlbs, all below 6000 rpms. As for a big block, i would definitely want to run aluminum heads and they run around 1200 to start with, then to get the motor, rebuild it, and get fuel injection for it, the costs would continue to add. I am only defending my point of view on the 5.3L b/c it was, and has been my first intentions, and after evaluating other options, it has continued to be the most cost effective choice.

I know that there are legitimate reasons to junk the 5.3, but does that mean that the reasons to keep the 5.3 are not legitimate?
 
a stock vortec 8100 would make at least that 355 & 480 with a decent exhaust and intake... no further work required - AND, at a MUCH lower RPM than a wound-up small block.

Sell what you have, and you'll offset sthe cost of the 8100.
 
To add to the 8100 idea,

If you happen to know a GM tech that might run across a core, they are pretty well dressed out as a crate replacement.

Last one I delt with came with coil packs and plugs installed, even had a few sensors inplace as well.

Been over a year since I messed with them so some things may have changed. If I remember right core was in the $750 range. It's somewhere to start, new crate is $6k plus.
 
You already said you're willing to spend $$$ building a small block.. get a core big block.. I think your estimate of $1200 to get any engine rebuilt and running is low as hell anyway, but that's just me.

It's becoming pretty clear that you've made up your mind and although you state you welcome criticism, you use it to try and find a way, however far-fetched it may be, to justify your original idea.

So go ahead and drop that hot-rod small block in there, but don't be surprised when a bone-stock 2500HD *without* that nifty Duramax badge smokes your ass on any hill, and especially away from a stoplight.

You should ride in a 8100-equipped truck.. that's a STRONG engine, from right off idle on up.
 
ok, well my mind is now made up completely, i am going to use the engine that i choose, the title of this thread is "MY ultimate DD/tow rig". I am tired of hearing negative criticism while i have had this thread up. If yall do not like my choice to do anything on this build/thread just dont look at the thread, it as simple as that.

I also work part time at an engine machine shop, so i can easily do a complete rebuild for around 1200.

I am not worried about smoking a 30,000 dollar plus truck from any stoplight, thats not what im building this truck for, i am building it to suit me, and i am confident i will have enough power for everthing that i want to do with it.
 
Mac5005 said:
P.S. Note to All, i love the objective criticism, it makes me look at other options, so keep the responses coming.
Click to expand...

You asked for criticism..

And you didn't mention you work at a machine shop.. that would make a big difference in the cost..

Should be an interesting buildup though..
 
Rich, i do love the criticism, but everyone making the same points over and over is no way to do so. Argueing the negative side of one engine against the positives of another is like comparing apples to oranges. I do think the 8.1 would be an awesome engine in this suburban, however I cant drop 6k in one chunk for the motor, plus spending money on everything else. Seriously, i do appreciate yall's input, b/c how would i catch any potential problems when i am the only one looking at the build all the time.

I do have a question for you guys that know more about tcases than I do. I know that Chevy used 205's behind 400's/700r4's/and 465's after 1985, but does the later bolt pattern (like on one that came off of a 700r4) match to a 93 4l80E, or is there a factory adapter i can use?
 
uh, that's because there really are no positives for what you want to do with it. you keep listing ones that are nice for a race car, but not a tow rig.

go for it though. it'll be the slowest, highest powered puller on the road.:flipoff2:
 
Mac, I'm not trying to beat a dead horse, but you totally missed the $750 core part if you get an 8100 that was pulled.

Since you are at the machine shop, doing the rebuild to stock specs should be no more expensive than the hi-po small block you were considering as well.

That was my point, not trying to make you go from a $1200 engine to a $6000 one! (I'm good at spending other people's money, but damn!)
 
Rich, haha, now i got your point...yeh im going to give that buddy of mine that works at the dealer a call to give him the heads up as well as a guy i know that works at Penske truck leasing as a tech, i know he picked up a core from one of their trucks for his z71, that i completely forgot about until today.

RufusTheRam said:
uh, that's because there really are no positives for what you want to do with it. you keep listing ones that are nice for a race car, but not a tow rig.
go for it though. it'll be the slowest, highest powered puller on the road.:flipoff2:
Click to expand...

I may be missing all of this, but stroking a motor lowers the powerband; as well as increasing lift, but keeping duration minimal on a cam, along with a lightweight valvetrain, are all proven ways to make torque under the curve, low in the RPM range. I dont care about HP, you dont have anything without torque, and without holding it for several thousand RPMS. I understand that a 8.1 would be, and is a great engine especially for towing, and is an option that i am looking into, but a cummins, as well as the cummins drivetrain swap is out of my price range.
 
Tcase question

I do have a question for you guys that know more about tcases than I do. I know that Chevy used 205's behind 400's/700r4's/and 465's after 1985, but does the later bolt pattern (like on one that came off of a 700r4) match to a 93 4l80E, or is there a factory adapter i can use?
 
Ricky, thats what i need to know...i think i have one located already, and now knowing that it will bolt up, preciate it man.
Ordered my crank and rods today, i dont have to use them, i ordered them through the shop, but if i do it takes my 5.3L(325 cid) to 6.0L (364 cid), however it will have a smaller bore, but longer stroke than a conventional 6.0L (LQ4).
 
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