Need advice on shop floor

thecj3man said:
It seems like the ritzy side moves around. When I was younger, all the town big wigs lived down by the river in Ridgefields, then for a while Boone’s Creek was the hot place. Now, it seems like most of the movers and shakers are moving to the Orebank side of town.
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That's me. The mover and shaker

:lol:
 
I Know Paint comes up. Not that familiar with epoxy, but I can see it getting scratched up too. When I moved in with a full basement, the concrete floor was nice & seemed clean. I consulted with a friend that was in Paints & Stains. First, we determined the floor had Not been sealed.{Water will soak through}. Then I cleaned twice with Muratic Acid. Then after a few days of drying, I coated it Twice, with a Red Clay colored Stain. It soaks in some, so that's a good reason for the second coat. It will also Seal the floor. It Will scratch, if you drag steel across it, but it wont Peel or or pop off! Looks Good & wasn't that expensive. I got a picture in today's "Random Picture", that shows some of the floor.
 
13bullets said:
So, I've got a 20'x25' concrete pad freshly poured, about 6 weeks ago now. I'm about to put a metal building on it and was then going to epoxy the floor. I will likely be working on vehicles in it and that may include welding. Would it suffice to cover the floor with fire blankets or should I use a different floor coating?
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Dude, where are the pics?!?!

shawn said:
I wouldn't do shit to it. I would have had it trowled smooth, then nothing. If it's not smooth, I'd have it ground smooth.
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Agreed. My garage and shop are both just smooth finished and I really don't see the need for anything else unless you just want to fit in on garage journal.com
 
@McCracken how flat is the floor? How thick? Any significant cracks? The answers to those questions will dictate whether or not you're going to want to grind it out. If you've got an inch gap under an 8ft board, I think you're going to have a hard time getting that smooth. Likewise if it's marginal condition to begin with.

Is the slab floating inside concrete or CMU walls, or does it extend under the walls? If it's floating, it would be easy to bust it up and have a new one poured.
 
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I put an epoxy on my shop floor when it was new. Should have just left it raw. Sweeps easy, but I weld and paint stuff in here. Rustoleum overspray is tough.....
 
shawn said:
@McCracken how flat is the floor? How thick? Any significant cracks? The answers to those questions will dictate whether or not you're going to want to grind it out. If you've got an inch gap under an 8ft board, I think you're going to have a hard time getting that smooth. Likewise if it's marginal condition to begin with.

Is the slab floating inside concrete or CMU walls, or does it extend under the walls? If it's floating, it would be easy to bust it up and have a new one poured.
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It looks like it was poured after construction and poorly at that. It appears about 4" thick. No cracks that I saw.
 
Not sure how it compares to more modern concrete sealers, but we used boiled linseed oil on our shop floor. It holds up well and doesn't let spills soak in. Mix it 50/50 with mineral spirits to get deeper penetration. Probably the least expensive option for sealing concrete. It'll take several days to dry/harden up. Maybe add a little japan drier to speed curing. Old school option. And to the original post. Grinding seems like the best option. Screw pouring more concrete. Might be able to find a concrete sub that'll knock it out pretty quickly.


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I could recommend people for the grinding if you wanted to pay someone.
A few keep mentioning putting nothing on the floor, but a densifier like Euco Diamond Hard is super easy, and last forever. It is chemically changing the top layer of the concrete. It is not a topping that requires a bond.
It’s cheap and easy to put on too.
 
77GreenMachine said:
I could recommend people for the grinding if you wanted to pay someone.
A few keep mentioning putting nothing on the floor, but a densifier like Euco Diamond Hard is super easy, and last forever. It is chemically changing the top layer of the concrete. It is not a topping that requires a bond.
It’s cheap and easy to put on too.
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Need to talk to you about my shop floor sometime Phillip. Maybe at Potts
 
Concrete pays for my house and my hobbies, and keeps me fed. I love to talk Concrete! Let’s link up next weekend.
 
With pouring over it there are ways to do it so it wont come up. I would personally pour a thinner pad on top about 1 to 2 inches and look into addmixes that could be used to help it bind. You will be surprised at the number of precast panels that are called cold joints because you pour on side of the L then pour the other side a few days later. That way both sides can get a form finish.

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Keith Odom said:
With pouring over it there are ways to do it so it wont come up. I would personally pour a thinner pad on top about 1 to 2 inches and look into addmixes that could be used to help it bind. You will be surprised at the number of precast panels that are called cold joints because you pour on side of the L then pour the other side a few days later. That way both sides can get a form finish.

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This is what I suggested but it already has a let than 8’ ceiling height and he doesn’t want to loose any more height than he has to.


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That was my concern looking at pics.

I'd grind it to where it was smooth, even if it's not level.

Then plan to build another building, in the future, with taller roof for buggy stuff and use this one for storage.
 
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