Need some T-case info

$Smokin_Duradog$

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Joined
Jan 26, 2009
Location
Goshen
Hey guys looking for some info:) I have a 2005 Duramax going to straight axle it. After posting in the axle/ suspension area I have a really good idea of what I want to do.

I have been in formed that when I switch to a live axle from ifs I will need to change the output shaft on my T-case since my front drive shaft slides into the T-case on splines. I was tld that this setup isnt designed to handle the constant slidding in and out that a solid axle would cause compared to my IFS where there is no in and out slidding motion. SO if anyone knows of any company that is making an aftermarket output shaft that would go in my T-case and would have like a flange at the end where the drive shaft would bolt on to it it let me know please:) AS always thank you for reading this post and or replying with any info you have!:driver:
 
Check and see if anyone is offering a SYE kit (Slip Yoke Eliminator). That would probably be more cost effective, and do the exact same thing.
 
In some cases you can actually make it a fixed yoke. You can drill a hole into the end of the output shaft and tap it. Then drill a hole in the yoke for a bolt to permanently fix it to the shaft. basically you are just locking it so it cant slide anymore. After you do this you will have to get a slip front driveshaft. You can find more out on this by searching google for hack and tap. Alot of guys do this on the rear output shaft of their jeeps. Usually on the np231.
 
Sweet thanks for that trick tip MarsFab:) ZUKIMON this is what I found that ORU sells I think this is what you are talking about.

http://www.offroadunlimited.com/orustore/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=19554

This looks like the perfect fix but a little pricey :( I was hoping to find one that had a flange type connection instead of just a yoke for a u-joint and straps :( Ive found with the power the Dmax puts out and running the 38"x15.50X20" atm it seems to be really hard on the straps and yoke in the rear.
 
You may be able to find some machine steel straps for the yoke. I think maybe moser makes some that are like a big block machined to shape instead of little straps. IM not sure it would be much better but its could be worth a try. Does your case have a male shaft that sticks out and a female yoke, and does the male shaft stick out past the shaft housing of the case. If it does you could have a machine shop or driveshaft shop turn or cut the actual yoke off the female tube. Then make a flange weld it to the tube and bolt it to the output shaft like I said before. The machine work in that would probably be cheaper than that freakin part. Thats crazy i hope that kit actually comes with the shaft too.
 
That is high. From the looks of it, they sell the new yoke with the output shaft. I don't think I would go that route, but if you have the funds......

Marsfab has it right, you could drill and tap the output shaft and then have a fixed yoke machined/made from factory pieces A LOT cheaper than that kit. Heck, get a pinion flange from the rear and have it mated to your factory slip yoke and drill and tap. ;)
 
Hehe:) U guys rock! Thanks for the info! I think they are a couple options really I can go with to save money. I really haven't had my front drive shaft apart to see exactly whats what as far as male or female. I do have access to a machine shop I can get the cutting and drilling and stuff like that done for free so I think I will try to make something work from the stock parts!

Thanks again for the info!!:Rockon: My post wasn't even up 12 hours and sounds like I should be able to cut the cost in half! Excellent work guys!
 
I was thinking. Count the splines and measure the diameter of your front output shaft. Theres a chance that its the same size as some popular rear axle or transfer case drive flanges. It could slide right on and all you would have to do is drill and tap the shaft. Let me know if you figure out what size it is and I'll see if I can cross it to something else.
 
Duradog...these guys may not have caught the other post about your truck. lol......


if your going to be dropping money, don't just band aid what you have, go ahead and upgrade. find a good stout Tcase that is set up for what you need. You dont want to have to worry about drilled and tapped pins or metal straps breaking on you in the middle of a pull. It works fine for a jeep with 90 horse power.....but a smoke breathing diesel built for bumper to bumper grunt contests ....i might have some concerns.


guys, he us doing an SAS because he is snapping parts on his IFS during truck pulls. :driver: keep that in mind as you offer advice. :beer:
 
guys, he us doing an SAS because he is snapping parts on his IFS during truck pulls. keep that in mind as you offer advice.


Yes but he also doesn't want to spent 500 dollars on a stronger output yoke so I doubt he would be willing to spent the money to get a t-case and an adapter to bolt it to his transmission. I am well aware of the power that a duramax has. He came across as trying to find a way to do it cheap. Thats what I was trying to help him with.
 
BigRedB2 said:
guys, he us doing an SAS because he is snapping parts on his IFS during truck pulls. :driver: keep that in mind as you offer advice. :beer:
Click to expand...
:eek: Daayyyyum! I had no idea that he was doing something like that with the truck! Well, you have reached the extent of my knowledge on what you have.......you know need to listen to someone else or just build it mean as hell. :D :gitrdun:
 
i know you're tryin to keep things on the cheap, but for what u are wanting to do with it, i'd call or look up CRANKITUPDIESEL.com and find some info on their CLIMAX truck. they still run a stock case with a straight front axle, and are consistenly 1st,2nd,or 3rd in 3.0 pro stock diesel classes.
 
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