Need some wiring help

[orange150]

I started thinning down and cleaning up the hack job wiring on my Scrambler today, all was going well until I cut a small wire going to the alternator.
Here's a screen grab of the schematic:

I cut out circuits 75B&C as they are no longer needed, I wanted to clean up the ugly splice between all four wires.
So now I just need to splice circuit 78 (BROWN to alt.) to the 14 gauge red w/ trace going to the bulkhead connector. Problem is that brown wire is a solid core wire..

How do I go about splicing these back together?


Also while we're on the wiring subject; wire loom: what do you like to use?

 

[Tim C]

Hopefully you didn't cut much off. Its solid core because its a resistor basically. If you made it significantly shorter the ohms will be less, 1/2" or so wont hurt.

Proper way to fix would be solder and heatshrink, or better yet, cut the plastic off a butt conector, crimp it good, solder that and heatshrink.

Edit: without the rest of the diagram I cant say if the resistor is necessary or if it could be replace too. Most times the 15 ohm resistor wire is in parallel with the dash warning light so if the bulb burns out the alternator will still charge. If you removed the light then the resistor is less needed. Still simplest fix is solder and heatshrink.

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[orange150]

Hopefully you didn't cut much off. Its solid core because its a resistor basically. If you made it significantly shorter the ohms will be less, 1/2" or so wont hurt.

Yep. I somehow knew that much going into it with spec'd resistance wiring. I cut it right at the splice, but thinking it was a standard multi strand wire I went right at it with my auto strippers. Which is how that much is exposed in the picture above.

Proper way to fix would be solder and heatshrink, or better yet, cut the plastic off a butt conector, crimp it good, solder that and heatshrink.

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If I do the straight solder method, should I just "insert" the exposed wire core of the alternator wire into the strands of the 14 gauge wire, solder that up, and heat shrink it?
If I use a butt connector... where exactly am I crimping the solid core wire?

 

[Tim C]

Twist the solid wire around the stranded and solder. I splice wires like the pic below, tge pic I grabbed online shows both stranded wires, but to hook a solid I still use that style splice but it works out that the solid wraps around the stranded usually.

That will give the best mechanical connection before soldering. If you use the butt conector, cut the plastic off with a razor blade, insert the stranded side in one side and crimp, cut the solid slightly long and double it over in the other side and crimp, then solder the crimp for max holding power and best connection.

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[Ron]

You can also buy uninsulated butt connectors so you dont have to cut the insulation off

 

[Tim C]

You can also buy uninsulated butt connectors so you dont have to cut the insulation off

Thats what I do too, but most people have the insulated ones on hand. No need to make a run to the store for one crimp IMO.

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[shawn]

Go to Home Depot and buy a box of insulated heat shrink butt connectors. Slip over each wire, crimp, then hit it with some heat to shrink the insulation. It's all one piece and only takes a second to do.

 

[orange150]

Go to Home Depot and buy a box of insulated heat shrink butt connectors. Slip over each wire, crimp, then hit it with some heat to shrink the insulation. It's all one piece and only takes a second to do.

Those are what I typically use, and try to buy unless I'm in a hurry. I need to start going to HD more, the way it's talked about on here makes it sound better than sLowes, Lowes is super convenient though. As is Advance Auto.
I'm going to try the double it over method in a butt connector that @Tim C suggested and go from there.

 

[orange150]

Got everything for the ignition cleaned up, thinned out, and squared away.

As far as a loom goes, should I just reuse the old convoluted wire loom that I pulled off or invest in something else?

 

[Fabrik8]

Nothing wrong with convoluted split loom, but make sure to use good quality tape to overwrap it. I'd replace it with new loom, as old split loom can get brittle with age and thermal cycling.

 

[Metto]

Got everything for the ignition cleaned up, thinned out, and squared away.

As far as a loom goes, should I just reuse the old convoluted wire loom that I pulled off or invest in something else?

View attachment 263903

Screw the split loom. Seriously, it sucks major dong.

get this stuff instead McMaster-Carr

 

[orange150]

Hoping to continue with my miscellaneous electrical questions.

In an effort to continue to clean up and keep organized under the hood, I want to use a relay block for all my accessories that require one.
So far I need relays for:

• Headlight high beam
• Headlight low beam
• Front aux lights
• Rear aux light
• Fuel pump

I would like an air compressor in the future, which would mean at least one more.

So far I've found this one on amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072KJNPHJ/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1EQP448COWZL4
Anything better suited out there for what I'm wanting? Any reason to not use that one?

 

[NC-V]

I just installed that exact one in my ranger. Came with all the right terminals needed. Only complaint is the opening for the wires out the bottom is a bit small if you have it full and have some heavy gauge wires going into it.

 

[49willys]

Have you seen the spod clone on Amazon? A friend used one on his pontoon boat, it's about $50, works great for lights and accessories.

 

[orange150]

Have you seen the spod clone on Amazon? A friend used one on his pontoon boat, it's about $50, works great for lights and accessories.

I don't know that I see the point of the sPod and it's clones. It's just a prewired relay block with a switch panel.. right?

 

[49willys]

The thing I like about the spod is that it has a voltage controlled circuit board, it reaches 11.6 volts and turns itself off, all the relays, fuses, and switches are self contained. You have a hot and ground connection at the battery, one wiring harness to the switch panel. Then run all your junk to underhood box! I try to talk my customers into it if they want more than 2 sets of lights. I you take a little time you can route the wiring so it looks like factory. After seeing some "I'll save some money" jobs, it makes for a clean professional look under the hood and dash.

 

[Caver Dave]

Have you seen the spod clone on Amazon?

Link??