Need TPI help quick!

When you had the comp. flashed did you account for EGR disruption!!!!!

I am not sure if you have it blocked off/ Removed alltogether but My TBI setup did the same think and I had a running EGR system!!!! I had to re-shim the New EGR and it got that fixed..

My truck was running Excellent at idle but in Reverse and on the throttle past 1800 it would die out like lack of fuel and run real foul!!!! Replaced everything Sensor, TPS, IAC etc..., Engine Coolant, O2, Coil, Wires, Plugs, Distributor, EGr Solenoid and EGR Sensor Fixed it... And on my first spin aroumnd the block the New EGR Solenoid Blew the Caps off the manifold( This showed the Sustem wasn't making enough Pressure, Shift improved greatly and I could turnt the modulator down ont he tranny!!)

I concluded that since I was swapping from the 700-r4 to a TH-350 running Vaccum that it exagerated the issue!!!

Worth lookig into but I am not a TPI genius just the basics!!! Maybe the Comp. is laying over since its getting up to 2000 and after that its confused with insufficent flow readings???

:confused: SHOT IN THE DARK!!!

Good Luck
WILL
 
are all four wires hooked to the coil? 2 pink and 2 white? are you running a msd or any other aftermarket ignition?
 
4 wires to the coil?I believe theres only 2.One from the ecm and one from the distributor...............

As far as the egr system,I told them when they reflashed my prom that I deleted it.I made a blockoff plate and sealed it down.Could this still be an issue?Man keep the ideas coming cause im stumped......I swear its gettin fuel but the timing doesnt seem to be coming in with the rpm.I havent had a light on it yet but thats first thing in the morning.....thanks......
 
nope 4 wires on mine.
i run a 91 tpi out of a camaro in my jeep. do you have the coil that has 2 plugs on it that snap together to make one big one?
2 hots (pink)
2 grounds (white)
i think the computer and the distributor read off the grounds. pick up a msd installation manual it will outline this type of ignition with a good diagram. if you cant find one let me know i will scan one in tonight for you. i think the guy on pirate is right about your computer not seeing the tach signal.
 
coil should have 4 wires 2 in / 2 out to dist.

Make sure your ECM to dist. timing connector hooked up... Its the 1 wire connector you unhook to set timing.. tan/blk wire (i think)..

Also many cars are set in the prom to 0 degs base timing, some aftermarket chips are set to that also.. (check with your chip burner)

EGR really shouldnt matter with this issue, cause more drivability problem.. VSS would only cause stalling at stops or other low speed stuff. Some dont claim to have a problem with it...
 
Ok i screwed the pooch on that one.I DO have 2 whites and 2 pinks.The white wire going into the coil has a disconnect on it.It also has 12 volts on the white wire while the ignition is on......where is the white wire going into the coil originating from?Ive got the big pink wire going into the coil wires up to ignition.Is this correct?Where does the ECM get its tach reference signal from?
This is a harness and ECM out of a 1991 camaro with the 7730 ecm.
Thanks guys I sure hope its a simple problem with the coil or a ground.......
AM I supposed to have 12 volts on the input wire to the coil on the white wire?
 
msd says that one white is the for the factory tach and the other is for the coil negative. i dont think you should have 12v + on the white wire. i can run you off the diagram from a 91 camaro gm service manual in the a.m., this is the bible i used to wire mine up.
 
from the gm service manual
1 pink goes from key on 12v+ igniton to the coil
1 pink and 1 white go to the distributor
1 white goes to tach

hope this helps, if you need more info i have the book open now, let me know

if all else fails just paint them all purple!! :flipoff2:
 
Thanks for the help guys...im still working on it but hopefully some info youve given will help me figure this crap out.......
 
OK set timing and I think all the coil wires are connected properly.......started it up again and it idles better.Drove it around the yard and same problem,anything over 1/4 throttle and it spits and sputters......then as it got to 180 degrees it got to the point where if I even touched the throttle it would die like someone flipped a switch......if I let out of the throttle it would run again after some spitting and coughing........what kind of symptoms do these sound like?Cam the igntion coil be bad?I am pulling my hair out at this point.....thanks for the help[ guys.....
 
Could it possibly be the pickup inside the dizzy? what do they call 'em.. "HEI module" ?
 
buggybuilder said:
OK set timing and I think all the coil wires are connected properly.......started it up again and it idles better.Drove it around the yard and same problem,anything over 1/4 throttle and it spits and sputters......then as it got to 180 degrees it got to the point where if I even touched the throttle it would die like someone flipped a switch......if I let out of the throttle it would run again after some spitting and coughing........what kind of symptoms do these sound like?Cam the igntion coil be bad?I am pulling my hair out at this point.....thanks for the help[ guys.....
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You shouldn't have bashed euro-cars soooo much...but seriously, usually when a coil goes bad it gets hot and won't run at all. I would really take a good long look at all of the grounds, they can cause all these ignition problems too. Have you tried another ignition module?
 
it sounds like an ignition module, or a pickup coil.
to test the pickup connect an ohmeter between the 2 pickup coil leads in the distributor. you should see between 500-1500 ohms as the leads are flexed by hand, if not the pickup is defective. also check between one lead and the distributor base,it should read infinite at all times.
the manual says to check the ignition module use an "approved module tester"???????
just asking but have you verified you have about 45 psi of fuel pressure. this can cause the same problems you are describing. make sure you dont have the feed and return line backwards and that you are flowing thru the fuel filter in the right direction. the gm fuel rail has a schrader valve on it to check pressure.

again i will be coming thru greensboro on my way to URE TODAY at about 5:30 and i do have a spare computer and this 91 camaro gm service manual. you can borrow them for the weekend if needed, just let me know and ill bring em with me!!!
 
What Are you use using for a fuel pump you might not have enough Gas or pressure regulater?

It sound like you might be starved for fuel
 
Ridgerunner said:
What Are you use using for a fuel pump you might not have enough Gas or pressure regulater?

It sound like you might be starved for fuel
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OK after troubleshooting all day i can safely say I checked all my electrical stuff.I checked the pickup coil,swapped igntion coils,took the ignition module to vatozone for them to check it(kept it hott for the ride there),everything checks great.I timed it at exactly6 degrees btdc with the bypass unhooked and with the bypass hooked up it jumps to 19 degrees btdc.perfect......I called a couple TPI places and they had questions about the fuel pressure also.We checked the pressure at 180 degrees and with ignition on it was like 43lbs.Then as it ran and got hotter the pressure would drop to like 20lbs and if you mashed the gas the pressure dropped to almost 0 and the motor died.SO we checked the pressure at the pump and it jumped to 90 psi.Then we jumped the Fuel pump test wire and it seemed like it was bypassing the regulator.without building pressure at the rail??
Can the regulator cause low fuel pressure and symptoms like this?Why only when its hot?Coincidence only...............maybe.I ordered another regulator and will get that tommorow.what do ya think?
Euro- cars rule.....now hopefully my junk will run!
 
Sure.. if the regulator allows all fuel to bypass the rail, you'd see no pressure at the rail. Ragulators can and do go bad... Not sure if that's a common problem with TPI - I've got that poor guy's EFI.

Does your regulator have a vaccum line on it? if so, does applying vacuum change anything? (using the fuel pump test wire and a hand held vacuum pump)

I thought you said it does it anytime you rev above 2000, not just when the engine is hot? At any rate, it could be the cold enrichment map is helping to keep it alive just that little bit.

Anyway, hope the regulator fixes it for ya.. it sucks to keep throwing parts at something!
 
Ya know what removing the vacuum line didnt change anything....It makes alot of sense that the cold enrichment map could be helping it out before it hits closed loop......good point.I really think its that regulator but it seems like there would be something visably wrong with it ya know???? Thanks for your input Rich.........makes me feel a little better about the regulator fixing this!
 
yager said:
how are your fuel lines routed ? are the fuel lines getting hot and causing vapor lock ?
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We thought about that but if the pump is capable of 90 psi it doesnt seem hardly possible........is it possible with EFI?
 
spanki maybe its that hydro line you ahve as fuel line? just a thought.... did you drive the buggy to the parts store>? now that ive thought about iot it seems like it is running rich all the time. maybe every onme is right and the comp isnt burned right. id get on the horn with the company that burned your chip and see if they did it right
 
Something that came to mind from what you said, you said before it gets warmed up (open loop) it does not run as bad as when warmed up (closed loop). You said you have tested all your electrical and sensors and they are good, have you tested everything after they have warmed up? I had a vehicle I was workin on awhile back that I chased a similar problem on it forever. all the sensors tested out good and it ran great before it went into closed loop, as soon as it went to closed loop it would spit sputter and bareley wanna run. After testing everything hot/cold I finnaly figured out it was the MAP sensor that had caused all the problems. Only was able to figure it after it was warm with a dwell meter. (tachometer) on the MAP.
Couple of other things to check, make sure you have good grounds, engine to frame, battery to frame, ect.
also check your temp sensor to computer wiring and the sensor itself, this plays a major role in your A/F ratio.
Of course this is all if the fuel pressure regulator does not cure the problem.
 
Good point,I will definitley check everything once the new regulator is in.
Thanks guys for the help.......Mr.Metty why do you ask if I drove the buggy to the parts store? I believe the prom is done right as I get the prorper voltages and perfect Electronic spark tiiming.I know its a fuel pressure problem,I am hoping its not a leaking injector or 8............
 
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