Never Ending TJ Steering Issues

Cory Taylor

Member
Joined
May 22, 2013
Location
Raleigh, NC
Hey Guys,

I can't figure out my TJ's steering issues so I need some help. But before you stop reading because this topic is so over discussed and repetitive that it's a waste of time, I've already checked the regular issues.

-track bar: geometry correct and tight
-steering linkages: brand new currielink steering system...definitely not that
-all ends are greased and in tact
-wheel hubs in good shape
-aligned and balanced front

I'm running a 6" short arm w/ 35" Toyo AT's.

I cannot get the steering to tighten up. It floats left and right wayyyyyy more than it should and I'm lost as to where to go next. Plus my brand new 35's are wearing twice as fast on the front and it's becoming noticeable (which sucks) so I won't even drive it often here lately. I've got a few inches of play in the wheel so I'm constantly trac steering to keep it straight on the road.

What do I need to look into next?

Thanks in advance!
 
I read a little on the preload, but how do I know when I'm over adjusting? I really would like to avoid over wear of my steering box, because that would just be way too good of an excuse to go buy a ported hydro assist box that I don't need.
 
There is a "right" way to do it. But if I were you, just take baby steps, around 1/4 -1/2 turn at a time, until the steering feels ok, but without drag. When you lose your return to center, it's too tight.
 
Cory Taylor said:
Hey Guys,

I can't figure out my TJ's steering issues so I need some help. But before you stop reading because this topic is so over discussed and repetitive that it's a waste of time, I've already checked the regular issues.

-track bar: geometry correct and tight
-steering linkages: brand new currielink steering system...definitely not that
-all ends are greased and in tact
-wheel hubs in good shape
-aligned and balanced front

I'm running a 6" short arm w/ 35" Toyo AT's.

I cannot get the steering to tighten up. It floats left and right wayyyyyy more than it should and I'm lost as to where to go next. Plus my brand new 35's are wearing twice as fast on the front and it's becoming noticeable (which sucks) so I won't even drive it often here lately. I've got a few inches of play in the wheel so I'm constantly trac steering to keep it straight on the road.

What do I need to look into next?

Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...
Who did the alignment? More than likely, they just set the toe, and did nothing about caster. With 6" of lift, you will either have driveshaft vibes or poor steering, or maybe some nice balance of the two. Because of the lift, the pinion needs to be pointed at the transfercase front output, and when you rotate the axle that way, it screws up your caster angle. If you get your caster right, you get driveshaft vibration because of the angle the u-joint has to operate at. In my TJ, I solved it by putting a high pinion D60 with locking hubs in mine. That allows you to unlock the hubs, so you aren't always spinning the driveshaft, and the high pinion moves the pinion up about 2-3 inches so that the angles are better anyway.
 
Cory Taylor said:
Was yours tracking left and right floating all over the road as a result of the caster angle?
Click to expand...
castor angle is what keeps you centered in the road.
you know when your turning and let go of the steering and it naturally returns to center thats due to castor angle.
a 6" short arm lift never works out well on or off road so I would suggest drop it down to 4" springs and 1" body lift then if if you have adjustable lower arms adjust them out until you have around 5 deg castor. and the way to measure that is place a angle finder on top of the upper ball joint and it should be tilted back.
check that out and then post up your results.

Buckeye Performance Inc.
828-779-2242
 
Cory Taylor said:
Was yours tracking left and right floating all over the road as a result of the caster angle?
Click to expand...
I only had 4.5" springs, but I don't particularly remember any wandering problems beyond normal 94"-wheelbase-on-35's-and-a-lift wandering.
 
Nobody said anything about ball joints. Are the fronts cupping?
 
Wasn't any cupping. Sorry it's been so long for an update but I can gladly say that adjusting my gearbox took a ton of the play out of steering and has made the jeep significantly easier to drive. Thanks for all the help guys.
 
Caster angle is very important but what track bar and pitman arm are you running?? Does it dart when you hit the brakes or accelerate after gear changes??
 
Ok so you have a RE track bar that bolts into the stock bracket. What is the pitman arm? With a RE track bar it really needs to be a stock arm not a drop.
 
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