new engine from gm goodwrench questions

tkeaton

tkeaton

Master Velocipede Alchemist
Joined
Mar 20, 2005
Location
Chattanooga
looking at the basic 350 engine from gm, new...anyone used this engine or have any opinions on it?

what manifold should one go with, propane to be used

also, i have heard conflicting reports concerning the break in of a new engine if using propane, should it be broken in with gasoline then switched over, or can it be run with pane from the start?

thanks guys
 
Are you getting the HO or just the basic 350? The basic 350 is a bit too low on hp for me to justify spending that much money, they are something like 240~260 stock. Now the HO crate engine is something like 330hp, but double the price of the non HO. Why not rebuild a seasoned one and save some money?

You can break an engine in on propane. The rings are the only thing questionable, but if the cylinder walls are honed properly, you shouldnt have any worries. If you do run propane as the break in fuel, I would stick to a single weight oil like sae30 for the first oil change duration.
 
What.. $1300 for a brand new engine with NEW parts is unreasonable? Shoot.. that's what I'm gonna run when this one dies. Ashworth quoted around a grand for a basic rebuild top & bottom, but one of HIS basic rebuilds is what would be a "premium" setup elsewhere...

260hp, and 300+lb-ft.? works for me... if your driving style dictates more HP, than it would certainly be better to rebuild a seasoned engine... you could up the compression while you're at it...

You can run a more agressive manifold since you don't have to worry much about the fuel dropping out of the air mixture ;) Performer Rpm is fine, or just a regular Performer. I've got the regular one, so that's what I'm running.

GM sez it's "designed to run on gas, CNG, or propane", so I am not sure if you have to crack the head and change out any of the valves...
 
350

You would be hard pressed to get above 300 hp for $1300. Probably couldn't get to a quality 300hp for that.
 
Rich said:
What.. $1300 for a brand new engine with NEW parts is unreasonable?
Click to expand...


Well, my theory....for $1300, you could easily rebuild a seasoned and get what you want from it whether high hp/torque or just newly rebuilt. That to me just seems alot to spend for so little performance. Take my dinosaur AMC for example, I have a little under 1500(granted ignition components were reused) in mine and i dynoed a good bit in the upper half of 300s.


Rich said:
if your driving style dictates more HP, than it would certainly be better to rebuild a seasoned engine... you could up the compression while you're at it...
Click to expand...

You bring up a good point here. But why dump 1300 when for that price you can DIY and have it tailored your way. Plus, for the 1300, is that shortblock/longblock?...does that include the accessories, brackets, etc. With a seasoned (granted youll probably buy new wear items, but at least you have the neccasary brackets and misc items that nickel and dime you to death.

just my .02
 
after comparing some figures ive gotten to rebuild (machine, new parts, etc) and then the price of the basic 350, im strongly considering just buying new, sure it doesnt have quite the power of some others, but i think it will be plenty for my application.

thanks for all the input guys
 
StudNuts said:
for the 1300, is that shortblock/longblock?...does that include the accessories, brackets, etc.
Click to expand...

That's what I love so much... everything except the front accessories, flexplate, starter, and intake manifold.. Everything else...oil pan, pump, even the valve covers are included.

I loosely priced up a rebuild of a good but tired 350 and came to damn near that with mild performance parts, and it was still an old crank & heads, and no chance for another re-build.

Let's say you buy an engine and it turns out to need a cylinder sleeved, or there's cracks in the heads, etc..., then you're hosed.

But, Jon got great HP figures for about the same amount of cash, and then promptly blew the fawker up spinning 7 grand.. :flipoff2:

Your call! You've certainly gotten both sides.. :D
 
ridefast said:
looking at the basic 350 engine from gm, new...anyone used this engine or have any opinions on it?

thanks guys
Click to expand...
IT IS A GOOD DEAL.

I got one in mine and a friend just put one in his K5.
3 year /36000 mile warrenty.
no one that builds a motor will give you that.
Go for it.
Jon
 
Rich said:
That's what I love so much... everything except the front accessories, flexplate, starter, and intake manifold.. Everything else...oil pan, pump, even the valve covers are included.

I loosely priced up a rebuild of a good but tired 350 and came to damn near that with mild performance parts, and it was still an old crank & heads, and no chance for another re-build.

Let's say you buy an engine and it turns out to need a cylinder sleeved, or there's cracks in the heads, etc..., then you're hosed.
Click to expand...

Well, then I guess its a good call if its assembled already. Im a poor ass bitch so my though process is always on my pocket book. Another thing to think about with the basic 350(stock 260hp) is hp/weigth ratio. You could build up a 4.3 to 260hp and save half the weight. I dont know, dont take my advice, I run a neanderthall AMC engine :flipoff2:



Rich said:
But, Jon got great HP figures for about the same amount of cash, and then promptly blew the fawker up spinning 7 grand.. :flipoff2:
Click to expand...

nah, those figures are with the engine i just rebuilt and am now running. hopefully this one dont blow cause I will be pissed $$$.
 
between the warranty and the completeness, as rich said, are my main arguments for this route, plus im not tryin to outdo anyone on the virgin build

maybe the second project will have the 572 in it :flipoff2:

again, thanks guys for all the help and input, for both sides

oh...i can also pick up one of the new ones this afternoon, if i needed it, chevy here in town keeps them in stock :D
 
where are you people getting your rebuild parts? i've never spent any more than 700-800 bucks on a basic, stock DIY rebuild. that's including new water pump, all machine work, etc. hell, my trooper motor only ran me 550 for the whole deal, including a clutch. 1300-1500 should net you a much better motor than going crate, you have to consider the time factor though... honestly, if i wasn't pinching pennys or had the cash on hand, i'd just buy a crate motor. it's a pita to rebuild a motor really, with lugging the block to the machine shop, finding the time to do the build, and all that. just keep in mind you're looking at money on top of the 1300 to trim it out (accesories, etc.).
 
MR. GADGET said:
IT IS A GOOD DEAL.

I got one in mine and a friend just put one in his K5.
3 year /36000 mile warrenty.
no one that builds a motor will give you that.
Go for it.
Jon
Click to expand...


I agree!!! I used to work a for a Chevy Dealer and have install many Goodwrench engines. I've never had a come back or heard of any trouble out of them. Not to mention the time you save running to the machine shop and parts house. As for the manifold I'd stick with a Performer or RPM like Rich suggested. Back in the early '90's you could get a c/k truck that was duel fuel. It had all the throttle body injection like a stock vehicle, but also had the vaporizer and 2 fiberglass tanks under the bed from the factory. A local gas company used to buy their trucks from us like that. I believe it would be all right to run propane from the start.
 
Why don't you go with a good used Vortec 350 from a wrecker. you can save alot of money and get a better engine. Shoot I have a 180k 350 TBI and it runs great.
Unless you are in need of a lot of HP a stock engine will last a lot longer. For off Road you do not need a lot of HP
 
a stock engine will last longer? you mean a new, in stock engine from the dealer? or a stock engine out of a wrecker? the main thing that is pushing me towards the crate is the warranty/availability.
 
ridefast said:
a stock engine will last longer? you mean a new, in stock engine from the dealer? or a stock engine out of a wrecker? the main thing that is pushing me towards the crate is the warranty/availability.
Click to expand...

There is nothing wrong with a crate motor but if cost is the issue the a good used motor from a wrecking yard would work good just get one with low miles. and make sure they tell you the milage on the engine not just the compression. a lot of wreaking yard only tell you the compression becuse they can not warenty the milage. since all newer trucks have 100k odometers they have to know what the milage is on the truck it came out of.
and yes a stock engine will last longer than a HP modified one.

I used a crate trans from gm and they gave me a 3 year 50k warenty on it. and I have been very happy
 
Ridgerunner said:
I used a crate trans from gm and they gave me a 3 year 50k warenty on it. and I have been very happy
Click to expand...

Now that I think of it it may be 3y 50k mile warr. on the motor.
Jon
 
read the fine print on the warranty card, some applications do not apply on the warranty.

Stock replacement applications are usually worry free, it's when you get into "special use" and "off road" applications that things get crazy.

Kevin
 
I have experience installing quite a few crate and new motors. In my experience if you are changing V-6 to V-8 or jeep to chevy for example, it is hard to beat the deal offered at the dealership simply because like Rich mentioned all the tin (vc,oil pan, dipstick, front cover , etc.) is there already and that makes less to round up plus eliminates any confusion between year and variation differences (these are much more prevalent on fords than gm but even the SBC has been tweaked here and there)

For replacing a tired powerplant I am a big fan of the reman companies out there, with a little home work you can select a company that uses quality parts (sorry, but not the big box stores... no matter how good the price) and will stand behind there motor almost as long as the dealership for about 2/3rds or less of the price.

But homework is the key here, some will only use OEM suppliers and high quality assembly supplies (fasteners,lube, etc.) while others will throw anythng together. A friend got a 302 with 6 pistons .030 and 2 @ .060 this is obvious garbage.

Realistically the warrannty is mute for most of us, because most dealerships want to see the motor in vehicle so that they can ensure "proper installation" at which time most will refuse to warranty do to "off highway" or "non street" usesSorry so long, just my .02(and a half) worth
 
Blkvoodoo said:
read the fine print on the warranty card, some applications do not apply on the warranty.

Stock replacement applications are usually worry free, it's when you get into "special use" and "off road" applications that things get crazy.

Kevin
Click to expand...

I was told buy the dealer that is did not matter whet vehicle or who installed it they gave me the warrenty card and I filled it out and sent it in
 
At our shop, for a SBC 350
Block bored and honed $118.00
Deck the block $76.00
Instal Cam Bearings and freeze plugs $35.00
For the heads:
Valve Job on 2 heads $118.00
New Springs $48.00
New guuides(if needed)Installed $97.00
Surface (2) heads $76.00
Press old pistons off and new ones on $32.00
Resize Rods $80.00
New push Rods $40.00
Balance Job:
Crank, Pistons, Rods, Balancer, Fly wheel
or flex plate $150.00
Complete kit including Crank and Choice of Cam:
$395.00

Total $1265.00

If you don't spring for the balance job, You don't need guides, Rods do not need re-sized, That'll save you $322.00 SO that brings the cost down to $943.

Just to give you an idea of machine shop prices
 
thanks for that chip, those prices are definitely lower than the shop im familiar with around here.....if i do decide to rebuild instead of buying new, ill be coming up there
 
upnover said:
At our shop, for a SBC 350
Block bored and honed $118.00
Deck the block $76.00
Instal Cam Bearings and freeze plugs $35.00
For the heads:
Valve Job on 2 heads $118.00
New Springs $48.00
New guuides(if needed)Installed $97.00
Surface (2) heads $76.00
Press old pistons off and new ones on $32.00
Resize Rods $80.00
New push Rods $40.00
Balance Job:
Crank, Pistons, Rods, Balancer, Fly wheel
or flex plate $150.00
Complete kit including Crank and Choice of Cam:
$395.00

Total $1265.00

If you don't spring for the balance job, You don't need guides, Rods do not need re-sized, That'll save you $322.00 SO that brings the cost down to $943.

Just to give you an idea of machine shop prices
Click to expand...

So just so that I understand.
I have a motor that was running fine but was smoking a little and needed a valve job.
I can drop this to you and pick up rebuilt for 950 or so ready to drop in?
That sounds like a real good deal.
JOn
 
Ridgerunner said:
I was told buy the dealer that is did not matter whet vehicle or who installed it they gave me the warrenty card and I filled it out and sent it in
Click to expand...

I was told the same thing.
All they look at is what broke.
Something covered and not from neglect = new motor.
JOn
 
the problem with a wrecking yard engine is you have no clue how it was maintained. and even a low milage engine if it isn't well maintained will be junk.

my brother bought a v6 from a local yard for like 400.00
he had to replace it several times which meant he had to remove it and take it back. not once but three twice to get one that didn't smoke like carp when you cranked it. that engine lasted as long as he kept the car though once he got a good one.

they told him when he got it if it smoked bring it by and let them see it. and they would replace it. but he would have to pull it and bring it back.

it was a lot of extra work but he got a good one and it lasted a good fifty or sixty thousand till he sold it.
 
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