new engine from gm goodwrench questions

MR. GADGET said:
So just so that I understand.
I have a motor that was running fine but was smoking a little and needed a valve job.
I can drop this to you and pick up rebuilt for 950 or so ready to drop in?
That sounds like a real good deal.
JOn
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No, this is all you need to put it together. All the machine work. Parts ect Heads are complete though. He charges $500 to assemble over and above the cost of what I quoted. If you were to go this route you would receive:
Block with cam bearings and freeze plugs installed.
Your two heads
All your sheet metal cleaned.
Crank
Cam
Pistons and rods assembled
Kit with all gaskets, seals, rod and main bearings, push rods, lifters, assembly lube.
In other words the whole engine just not assembled. Sorry if it appeared to be otherwise
 
upnover said:
No, this is all you need to put it together. All the machine work. Parts ect Heads are complete though. He charges $500 to assemble over and above the cost of what I quoted. If you were to go this route you would receive:
Block with cam bearings and freeze plugs installed.
Your two heads
All your sheet metal cleaned.
Crank
Cam
Pistons and rods assembled
Kit with all gaskets, seals, rod and main bearings, push rods, lifters, assembly lube.
In other words the whole engine just not assembled. Sorry if it appeared to be otherwise
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That sounds more like it just wanted to make sure. Thats a fair price.

But
Gm crate motor is around 1300 to 1500 depends where you get them and it has the 3y 50 k warr.

I may get up with you and have you check out the motor and see what you think maybe just something to play with a little at a time.

It would make a good motor for my generator. :D .
Yes that is a thought but more of a joke. :lol: for those that know me.
J
 
MR. GADGET said:
I was told the same thing.
All they look at is what broke.
Something covered and not from neglect = new motor.
JOn
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The issue isn't that it is in an off brand ( non GM) vehicle, the warranty on the engine/trans will still apply, but there maybe issue if all "t's" are not crossed and "i's" dotted.

The issue is in a purpose built offroad vehicle, even if it is a Jeep that is morfed into Truggy.

>>>>>Vehicle MUST have a WORKING odometer<<<,

alternative fuels may cause issue as well.

FiLL OUT ALL PAPER WORK AND DOCUMENT EVERY NUMBER STAMPED ON THE ENGINE INCLUDING LOCATION OF NUMBER < YOU WILL BE ASKED FOR THIS INFO

There is also the dealership you are dealing with, they'll tell you most anything you want to hear to make the sale, till it is time to actually warranty something, then it is in the service managers hands, if the area rep says no, you got problems.

Smaller dealerships will be glad to sell you the engin/trans, but may ask you to go to a larger one for warranty work.

Best thing I can tell you, don't buy until you are absolutely ready to install and run.

A week or month from the date of sale, and the engine has issue, ( knocking on first start up, etc.... ) you have a fighting chance, on a specialty vehicle, if the engine/vehicle is covered in mud or what have you, good luck.

It is their game, played by their rules using your $$$$, know what you are getting into.

There are other caveats that I do not recall at this time, and there are pluses as well. READ THE WARRANTY INFO, If they don't hand it to you, ASK FOR IT !!!

Kevin
 
Doesnt propane like higher compression to make the same HP as gasoline? I would not break the engine in with gas at all. Propane runs cleaner and the oil stays cleaner
 
jdubb said:
Doesnt propane like higher compression to make the same HP as gasoline? I would not break the engine in with gas at all. Propane runs cleaner and the oil stays cleaner
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Its not hp ratings. Propane has a much higher equivalent octane rating than pump gas, therefore takes a higher compression to efficiently combust. Its the reverse of running a high compression engine, you cant shove 87 octane gas into a 11:1 ratio race engine and expect 400 hp - with propane somewhere in the 115 octane rating, you cant shove into a 9:1 compression engine and expect massive hp.
Now on to seating rings....Propane has minimal lube agents compared to gas, so most would argue its not good to break an engine in on propane. However, this lies into the quality of the cylinder honing and the quality of the rings used in the ring belt. If the cylinder walls were honed properly, propane is absolutely fine to use. Most importantly is the oil used and frequent oil changes, use a single weight oil when breaking an engine in on pane, a hd30 works great.
 
I put a GM crate motor in my car a few years ago. I got the "6 pack and an afternoon" deal which included the 260hp motor, edelbrock intake and 670 carb, headers, serpentine belt assembly, water pump, HEI distributor, everything basically except an alternator and of course the ps parts. I am completely happy with it, I've put about 25K miles on it and have had zero problems. The kit is very complete and well thought out. It ran me about 2500 for everything, but it was well worth not having to run around and find every nut and bolt (it came with ALL fasteners from ARP). I would do it again in a heartbeat, especially if its going in something that was not originally chevy powered
 
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