Still need to do the tc as well.
I really had no business installing this thing myself. I put the resistor in as per instructions. Did everything, but it looks like something is wrong, according to the chrysler service manual and th shopkey it may be a govenor problem or a stuck plunger for 3rd gear. Dunrite will for sure get a call for help on monday but since I didn't get the vb in till last night around 9 it was to late to call for help.Did you add a resistor to the governer/ecm wire to keep the computer from seeing the higher pressures? I've only heard of it affecting 1st gear--but could be? Have you called dunrite?
Fwiw, installed my dtt valve body a few days ago and have had no problems at all.
to you and your damn good luck.I'm getting the scanner out tomorrow since I got a buddy to help, I may work in the shop but have no idea what toys the mechanics have but he says it will scan the codes and everything else the system records. I can't manually shift into 3rd or 4th. According to the service manual it won't go into OD if it can't first shift into 3rd so I believe it safe to assume it is related to 3rd. When you drive it shifts 2nd and tachs till you let out of it around 3200, let out of the throttle then seems to jump into neutral and once the rpms and spd go down it shifts into 1rst and tachs at around1900-2000 and throughs you into the dash in the process.
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Uhh, Yep. What else do you call going from 2100 rpms at 65 to 1900-1950rpms at 65? Besides the master chrysler tech buddy of mine wasn't suprised to hear it , and Tony at dunrite told me to expect it, you know the daddy of valve body's for RE trans and the father of triple disc converters. I'm not going to argue with you though, cause it is what it is wheather you think you know otherwise and the bottom line is it is the best mod I've done so far and recommend it to anyone. I did service it and adjust the bands and replace some solinods. I wouldn't write that off. I say it was bunch of things.
Now on to the nightmare of the TC install.
Your right, I spoke to Tony for clarafication before I put my foot in my mouth and he said since I described the lock/unlock over and over in overdrive then like most 02's my line pressure was just to low and that was wearing the engage solinod out from excessive use so he suggested I replace it while the pan was off. Since my pressure is up to a reasonable level thanks to the vb and the TV cable is now adjusted I was able to lower the operating rpm in OD thanks to the lock up now working properly. So braxton your right to, my OD was never really working or at least correctly.
Yeah, find a trans shop to do it
We had a four post ramp lift so the truck was up high enough to walk under, a nice trans jack they use on the medium duty truck trans, a 5 ton port-a-power to spread the frame back out when we removed the trans crossmember, and my buddy's 30-40 grand in snap-on and mac tools. It still took 4 and half to 5 hours, granted we had never done one of these but it was still a royal pain in the ass, the worst parts were 1) the hard steel lines of the cooler are always in the way, just completely unhook them trust me 2) the tc line up and slip in to the two sets of splines and then getting the pump to engage, mark the drive on the tc and turn the pump teeth up and down and take your time 3) the frame closing together over an inch when we removed/drove the trans crossmember out, then having to port-a-pwr it back apart to put the crossmember back in. Everything is 14mm, 15mm, 16mm, 18mm, 19mm and have at least 2 ft of locking extensions just to get the tc bolts out. There is no way I'd try this without a lift and trans jack and some way to spread the frame, my buddy said the frame thing is worse on fords.
I think they all run around 450 plus a 100 dollar core. The best depends on who you talk to. I went with dunrite cause he is the daddy of the dodge valve body rebuild/upgrade. He has been doing it the longest and builds the vb to your specs when you order it not pulling it off a shelf. He made a good point none of the others made to. If your not making 600+ hp while you drag race or sled pull you don't need a 4 grand tranny or billet this chrommoly that, or new billet flywheel or any of the other crap they all want to sell you. All you need to tow with is 350 hp on the ground and a vb and tc built to your specs and change the fluid on a realistic interval. Shop around and realisticly decide what your goal with the truck is. Then get it, cause it really is the best upgrade I've made, far better than a chip, plus now that I have the TC in, it is unreal the difference the two made, it pull like a manual but no clutch in traffic or headaches on hills.
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