Newbie tig welding

peewee

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 28, 2008
Location
Stokesdale
So I got a new toy. I want to learn how to tig weld so I got a scratch start tig setup. Nothing expensive but just a start. I'm going to use my miller thunderbolt to power this. I'm starting on mild steel just to get the technique down and figure out the amps. ALL ADVICE IS WELCOME! Best place to get consumables? Best tungsten to start with? I have a cheap set up are there any particular upgrades I should get like cups or diffusers? I've seen some of the work some of you have done in the welding porn thread so I know there is a wealth of knowledge here.
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To make life easier, find a flex head.

Get a red tungsten for carbon

What comes with the rig should be good for a lense.
 
Ordering red tungsten now. I looked at flex head but this set up was $45. Once I get going I'll upgrade to a flex head but I'm not sure that I'll want a cheap one with out more research.
 
Unless you tig weld everyday, the cheaper flex heads will be just fine. I used a fairly cheap one for years nearly on a daily basis and it worked just fine. I still have it to this day and it still makes X ray quality welds. I wouldn't worry about the cheaper flex heads at this point in your learning process.
 
I see one problem unless I am wrong. Isn't the thunderbolt an a.c. only output? If not DC only dry rig is a easy set up. Just be sure to get the polarity right. DCEN. If it is an a.c. machine you don't have high frequency to establish and maintain the arc.
 
I see one problem unless I am wrong. Isn't the thunderbolt an a.c. only output? If not DC only dry rig is a easy set up. Just be sure to get the polarity right. DCEN. If it is an a.c. machine you don't have high frequency to establish and maintain the arc.
Ok I did a quick search, they made both. Be sure you are trying this on dc only. Unless you invest in a high frequency box.
 
I like to get all my consumables from htp america. There ebay store is great.

Miller Tig Torches Parts, 17 Series Air Cooled Tig Torch items in welders4less store on eBay!

I like to use an actual gas lens. I especially like the stubby gas lens. It lets you get into tight places and is easier for me to make long welds. Plus it lets you have a little longer stick-out to get into those corners.

I think one of the main things on a scratch start rig is having a block of aluminum or copper (harbor freight welding spoon works great for this) to place at the end of the weld. This allows you to move the arc to the copper to continue shielding the weld before you whip out. Jody at weldingtipsandtricks did something that worked pretty neat for this.

 
Red (thoriated) tungsten is the old-school go to tungsten, but it's fallen waaay out of favor since it's quite radioactive and the dust is hard to contain when grinding. Most folks have gone to a 2% lanthanated (blue) tungsten. You can find them all over Amazon or Ebay for prices lower than most local shops. My Airgas branch doesn't even carry it. It works well on older transformer machines.

You need a tungsten grinder. I made mine out of a cheap HF die grinder and a set of diamond wheels they had. Works great, cost about $20, doesn't take up as much space as a dedicated bench grinder. A lot of folks use a fine wheel on a bench grinder, but make sure you only use that wheel for tungsten in the future. Don't want to contaminate your T. Look up videos on T sharpening and figure out which method works best for you.

As far as the flex head, you'll be fine learning with what you've got. Spend some time looking into other torches while you're learning. I just took our TIG from a water cooled WP-18 down to a CK industries WP-17 air cooled, flex head with the superflex cable. It's a huge difference in flexibility, but if you're a shitty welder, it's not going to fix that. Also, the rigid head might actually help learning scratch-start. The head can't flex while you're scratching off, allowing the T to stick.

Gas lenses are nice, but there's a lot of new options on the market, too. Learn with your #7 or 8 cup, get your gas flow right, and research lenses. Pyrex cups look like fun, I haven't tried one yet.

It won't be long before you're looking at new welders with high-freq start and AC. Look into the Eastwood TIG-200. I've got some experience with this unit and the company. It's a lot of welder for the money, and backed by a good warranty.
 
I've watched ALOT of Jody welding tips and tricks on YouTube. I have seen his pedal disconnect and like it. I'm going to do something similar.
 
Especially all metal. Tig has no cleaning ability at all. Mill scale, rust, coatings all bad medicine.
 
I use E3 tungsten. It's purple and is known for lower operating temps on air cooled setups like I have. I used to use only red for steel and pure/green for aluminum but kept melting torches on aluminum, even relatively low amperage aluminum work like long passes on fuel cells and what not. When I switched to E3 there was a noticeable gain in welding time before the torch even got warm. My best TIG advice; learn about mill scale, then remove it ALL, and remove some more to be safe, practice, sharpen, practice, sharpen, practice and sharpen more. 1 amp per thousandth of material thickness as a basic starting point ie. .125" or 1/8" material you want to start at around 125 amps. I personally usually weld a bit colder than that but its a good starting point. learn how to look at the weld after the fact and diagnose your settings from there. If the weld is gray and looks crystallized you're more than likely too hot, if you can catch your fingernail on the sides of the weld where it meets the base metal you probably aren't adding enough filler or your torch isn't at the right angle to the two pieces being welded. TIG welding is an art that I've yet to get great at and it takes more patience than my 3 daughters and wife all put together into one pile of bitchyness could ever come close to.
 
I will look in to the e3 tungston. I've just received my blue lanthinated 1/8" tungston yesterday. I actually intended to order 3/32" but whatever. Next on my check list is gas. I've got a 20cf nitrogen tank I can spare and airgas said they would trade it for free to a argon tank. I know that won't last long though so I'm looking in to bigger tanks. I'd like a 150cf I think.
 
90 or 150 is a good size for starting out. Try to get on somebody's account. The price breaks at Airgas can be HUGE! I've used the E3, and it works, but I've never been particularly impressed with the arc restarts and tip life. I've heard it's better on inverter machines, whereas ours is a big 'ol transformer Syncrowave, so I'm going to give the 2% lanth a try. I got 1.5% lanth (gold) from Airgas, but it wasn't hitting on much, especially with aluminum. It would double-ball and split. 1/8" will work for most things, I used it a lot at my old job. Almost exclusively. We typically use 3/32 at the shop now, though, as we're usually under 200 amps, and there's no use in spending the extra money for that 1/32.
 
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