Next toyota mod

cumminsdzl

cumminsdzl

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2005
Location
Wake Forest
Well as you can see from my signature, my toyota is very lightly built. The rear is welded and im running 33inch tsls. I have the stock 4.10s. I have been trying to figure out what my next mod should be. Its down to 3 things--aussie lock the front, get 4.7 t-case gears, or regear both ends to 5.29s. Im really having a hard time deciding so i was wanting some input from people that have been in my situation before.

Things to consider....i am not aggressive at all with the throttle when on the trail so that cuts down on carnage. The truck is street driven maybe once a week for the heck of it. I wish it had more power (gearing) but it doesn't bother me enough to help me make up my mind. I'm not wanting to upgrade birfs or shafts right now so what will work best with the stock stuff?

So whats the best bang for the buck? I know these things all have there pluses but what would you do in my situation?
 
You really kinda need all of them in my opinion. I would go with the locker first though. Gears(diff or t-case) are of no use if you cant get power to the ground through all 4 wheels first. A front locker makes all the difference in the world wheeling.....its like night and day.

Josh
 
Toy

front locker, 4:70 gear set, 5:29 r&p, in that order. If you intend to saty with the 33's and never go bigger, go with 4:88's.
 
:lol: I've never met the person who "never wants to go bigger" I think that always go back to what that person has in their wallet.
I just started building mine from stock this spring and I love what I have done so far(note sig.) but my first and foremost mod would have been the powersteering if I hadn't been in such a hurry to get on the trail-that only took one trip in the rocks and "I'm not doin that again until I get PS" ran out of my mouth! anyone else ever tried that???? Good advice on the Lockers Yall.
 
GONOVRIT said:
:lol: I've never met the person who "never wants to go bigger" I think that always go back to what that person has in their wallet.
I just started building mine from stock this spring and I love what I have done so far(note sig.) but my first and foremost mod would have been the powersteering if I hadn't been in such a hurry to get on the trail-that only took one trip in the rocks and "I'm not doin that again until I get PS" ran out of my mouth! anyone else ever tried that???? Good advice on the Lockers Yall.
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Never tried it. Bought a p/s setup before I ever off roaded it for that very reason! That was my first off road mod. I would go with the front locker too. My next mod is to reseal the front axle since it leaks in 4wd.
 
hell..... I'll be different and say go with the gears.
then weld the front diff and do a hydro assist.

then save up for a doubler ;)

I would not regear the R and P for reliability sake (this will be argued) :flipoff2:
 
welded front diffs blow - I don't care if you have full hydro.. even with the steering against the stops, it'll still just want to plow straight ahead.

Lock the front, 4.7's, a pair of Longfields/Newfields (just the birfs), then re-gear.
 
krehel24 said:
well what has stoped you from a trail??
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Well, to tell you the truth, not much. So far this truck has been to uwharrie, brown mountain, richlands road, and wheeled some private land with permission. I'm not saying i have taken the most difficult lines, but i havent been stopped from going where i want but once. I guess im not trying hard enough. The one time i was stuck was playing in some waist high ruts and basically bottomed out when the left and right side fell in ruts and was high centered in the middle.

I hadn't really thought about it until you said this, but one front wheel was very close to getting traction but wasnt turning. The locker would have saved me. Guess i just answered my question. Aussie locker here i come.
 
I wheeled with a guy a couple weeks ago at the Dixie Run, driving a yota, with locker rear, and limited grip up front, on 35's. He had a doubler, but said he wasn't using it, not sure of his axle gearing. He went on School bus, Slickrock, Guard rail and Hellicopter, winched once on school bus, so did the rest of us, winched on the upper ledge obove slick rock, and that was it. I was really impressed. He had skills yes, but until that trip URE was his only experience.

I too would still recomend a front locker and Newfields. Unless you don't already have a winch and I would go there first.
 
I'd do transfer gears and a selectable front locker. The problem with the lunchbox lockers is they will blow if you lose a birf or a inner. The stock e-locker or a arb will hold when that happens. The nice thing about the selectables is you can actually turn the damn thing.

I'd look at a regear to 5:29's, too much for 33's? Yes, but odds are you'll end up on 36's anyway. :D Doublers are cool but low gears sets are cooler IMO because you still run stock configured drivelines and have fewer things to burnup~break~fry~hang up etcccccc. You can always upshift and instead of running 1st or 2nd, stick that thing in 4th. Less stress on the tranny that way.

More or less the hot setup would be 5:29's, 5:0.1 transfer, spool rear, selectable front (HP if you can get it), longs, pig inners, rotated knuckles (3 to 5 degrees), as flat of a belly as you can get by raising the driveline, electric fan, high steer, move the front foward 1.5 to 3 inches, tub the firewall, rears up front, 56 to 63" rears, boomerang shackles and raise the gas tank 1~2 inches. You can go as much as the bodylift is. Neat thing is, most of this stuff is pretty easy to make.


I'll have the tube shop running in the next month or so and live right around the corner from youngsville. Let me know if your wanting to start tubing it out too. :huggy:
 
Ratman said:
The problem with the lunchbox lockers is they will blow if you lose a birf or a inner.
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FALSE.... i have seen several longs break without taking out a LOCKRITE

Ratman said:
odds are you'll end up on 36's anyway.
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TRUE



best bang for your buck is gonna be the front locker no matter how you look at it
 
Rich said:
welded front diffs blow - I don't care if you have full hydro.. even with the steering against the stops, it'll still just want to plow straight ahead.

Lock the front, 4.7's, a pair of Longfields/Newfields (just the birfs), then re-gear.
Click to expand...

rearsteer :flipoff2: :flipoff2:
 
91yota said:
FALSE.... i have seen several longs break without taking out a LOCKRITE
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Want some lockrite parts? :flipoff2: It's all about how bound it is when you pop that birf. Without chrome inners, odds are the inner would let go first tho'. Dollar for dollar you get better performance out of a selectable anyway and the upfront cost difference aint that great. I guess if you like wierd noises in your front go for it. :beer:
 
With only 33s on my truck for now even with the front locked, I don't really think that i will be stressing the birfs too bad.....but im no expert.

Honestly im looking for something that probably doesnt exist, a stock, locked, front end that doesnt break, and is cheap. For my setup, the stock toy axle is probably as close as im gonna get.
 
cumminsdzl said:
With only 33s on my truck for now even with the front locked, I don't really think that i will be stressing the birfs too bad.....but im no expert.

Honestly im looking for something that probably doesnt exist, a stock, locked, front end that doesnt break, and is cheap. For my setup, the stock toy axle is probably as close as im gonna get.
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Got rockwell? :flipoff2:



Seriously, its all about technique. Most birfs bust when you bind 'em and the bind increases with a locker. The main reason I'm not a big front auto locker fan is it locking when you dont want it too. (like when your already bound some and need to steer at the same time.) I've only run one rig locked in the front and the times I was denied locking the front didn't help. :lol: Dont plan your rig around 33's, its almost a given that you'll want 35's or so at one point. (like when your shit is bald and someone has one hell of a deal on 35's) My rule of thumb building is for 37's, I can always pull a leaf or otherwise lower it for the smaller rubber.
 
Ratman said:
Want some lockrite parts? :flipoff2: It's all about how bound it is when you pop that birf. Without chrome inners, odds are the inner would let go first tho'. Dollar for dollar you get better performance out of a selectable anyway and the upfront cost difference aint that great. I guess if you like wierd noises in your front go for it. :beer:
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not trying to start a pissing match, but how bound up do you think you have to be to break a LONGFIELD... sometimes they break, sometimes they don't... obviously your experience has been different than mine but you can't put out a blanket statement like that... ive seen plenty of stuff break but ive seen more lockrites hold up when something happened than i have seen explode...

and the cost difference is several hundred dollars between selectable and non selectable... just for the unit, then you have to add in the compressor (for ARB) or the wiring (e-locker)... plus install is gonna be a lot more intense whereas a lockrite runs ~$150-$200 and can be put in my the average person in a few leisurely hours from start to finish

just my .02 ;) and like i said, not trying to start an arguement, these are just the facts as I see them
 
Ratman said:
I'd do transfer gears and a selectable front locker. The problem with the lunchbox lockers is they will blow if you lose a birf or a inner. The stock e-locker or a arb will hold when that happens. The nice thing about the selectables is you can actually turn the damn thing.
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I've 5-6 busted Newfieds under my cruiser, and I've only broken 1 set of spring and pins, which is a 10-minute job to replace.

The main reason I'm not a big front auto locker fan is it locking when you dont want it too. (like when your already bound some and need to steer at the same time.)
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If you're bound up, chances are, your selectable locker won't unlock either, until the tension is released off the locking splines... ;)

and then, when you do let off, steer, then hammer the throttle needing traction again, the auto locker is back to work.. otherwise you've got to re-hit the switch, wait for the actuator to do its thing, and then the splines to line up, and lock.. and if you've got one tire spinning, trying to lock it is not good for the selectable locker's guts..
 
I'm gonna swim upstream.

Note: A lot of my business is gears, lockers and axle conversions/mods. So it goes hard for me to give the following advice.

Get a Winch first.

Everything else will just get you farther from home before you get stuck.
A winch will get you back.
:D

You already have a decent rig that will take you most places with a little sense and picking a good line.
:driver:

Next would be decision time.


If you never plan to regear. Go with a lunchbox locker in the front.
That is a cheap date. You can install it yourself with basic hand tools.

If you do plan to regear any time in the forseable future, hold out on the locker until you regear. And go for a detroit or a selectable. About the same time think hard about upgrading the shafts.

Once your axles are the way you want them. If you decide to go bigger, you will already have a good foundation to build around.
But there really aren't many places you will go often that you can't handle with 33's and lockers. And those you can tackle with a winch.
 
wbcarver said:
I'm gonna swim upstream.





If you never plan to regear. Go with a lunchbox locker in the front.
That is a cheap date. You can install it yourself with basic hand tools.

If you do plan to regear any time in the forseable future, hold out on the locker until you regear. And go for a detroit or a selectable. About the same time think hard about upgrading the shafts.

Once your axles are the way you want them. If you decide to go bigger, you will already have a good foundation to build around.
But there really aren't many places you will go often that you can't handle with 33's and lockers. And those you can tackle with a winch.
Click to expand...




We have a winner. And I figured he already had a winch, good point.


My only lunchbox locker in the front experience was a 44 HP in a full size bronco. Every shaft explosion was followed by a locker repair. That and a couple of knuckles. :D I've just gotten to where halveassing something because your cheap doesn't cut in anymore. 200.00 bucks difference between the pretender and the real thing just doesn't seem like much in the long run. Plus, on a rig that gets street driven a locked front is a scarey mofo in the snowyicey chit we get around here. He did say he drives it on occassion. I keep my junk street legal and tagged/insured and build accordingly.


I've broken 2 birfs and 1 marfield in my Toy experience. Neither was a Long. All 3 were with the front bound pretty badly. From everything I've read, the stock inner will let go before the Long in most cases, hence my comment about pig chromo inners. When your bound, your bound, a selectable wont help that much, ARB adds another link in the chain for failure, air, all your rigs already have dc eletricity on 'em. A 10 minite spring and pin is posible on a 40 front, it has a removable cover, try that on a mini housing. :flipoff2: Think about this stuff like fuses, you upgrade one part and the weak link moves down the chain, birf to inner to pinion to hub to c/v shaft and so on. You'll never find the end if you keep hammering harder. I guess my whole point is simple, either nut up and do the whole ball of wax at once, or build, break and upgrade the busted shit. Plus, the selectable adds the bonus of driveablity in 4hi and allows you to see just how far you can go before you need that 4th wheel pulling. Ok, I think I've pissed on enough shoes for one thread. :beer:


Dont forget, when you decide to tube that thing out, look me up. Its cheap enough, you buy the tube and replace consumables and we'll make that thing look like a rolling junglegym.
 
Ratman said:
We have a winner. And I figured he already had a winch, good point.


Dont forget, when you decide to tube that thing out, look me up. Its cheap enough, you buy the tube and replace consumables and we'll make that thing look like a rolling junglegym.
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Where are you located, you said you were close by?
If i decide to go with a winch instead of the locker, i'll let you build me a nice set of tube bumpers to hold that new winch, hows that?

I had considered putting on a winch but hadn't given it a lot of thought. But, i guess a winch will get you out of places a locker won't, so its something to think about. Thanks for the help guys.
 
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