Next toyota mod

cumminsdzl said:
Where are you located, you said you were close by?
If i decide to go with a winch instead of the locker, i'll let you build me a nice set of tube bumpers to hold that new winch, hows that?

I had considered putting on a winch but hadn't given it a lot of thought. But, i guess a winch will get you out of places a locker won't, so its something to think about. Thanks for the help guys.
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In the next 2 weeks the cube will be set, then its some wire and fire that junk up. I live over on the darkside of 96 near 96 and Pocomoke Rd. Do you weld? The thing is, you design it, I'll help you plan it and cut it, you either tack it and I'll weld it or you tack it and weld it. My notcher blows ass so I normally notch with the plasma cutter and grinder. This is a redneck tube shop at its finest. :D No point in building the garage as the house will be getting sold in the next 12 months anyway.
 
Gotcha, i work right down the road from you. Im the parts manager at CCS Equipment Sales at 96 and #1. Im not a welder, but i can come up with the design. Thanks for the input. I'll get with you in the near future.
 
Ratman said:
Plus, on a rig that gets street driven a locked front is a scarey mofo in the snowyicey chit we get around here. He did say he drives it on occassion.
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Please excuse my slight veer off-topic, but it does seem relevant here.
On a toy w/ manual hubs and a front locker, you *could* choose to only engage one hub along w/ 4wd. This would give you power to that one front wheel but not the other, yes? I have heard of guys doing this in the snow to avoid the forced-slippage that may happen w/ the auto-lockers, so when turning wheels can spin differently but 1 still has some power.
Is it crazy?
 
I did just that, and though it works, it seemed to pull to one side under power..
 
It doesn't "seem" to pull to one side, it pulls to one side like a MF, even with stock backspaced wheels. Been there done that, got over it with a selectable. That being said, I got lots of service in the snow and ice with the Lock-Right in the front, yes, it was a pain in the ass because it required every bit of your attention, but the ARB stopped several of those bad traits, and had the effect of extending the life of my front end components because the front was locked only when it needed to be locked. In fact, after I went with the ARB, there have been no further axle piecesparts purchases.

Anything you put in the front can be reliable as long as you know the limits and characteristics, and you learn how to drive it within those limits and characteristics. The ARB does require internal maintenance from time to time, and that's an undertaking you need to be aware of. An E-locker might be a better choice, but there are external components on some that are vulnerable. My choice would be to start and stick with the Lock-Right if you aren't going for more radical upgrades.
 
Get a detriot if the lockright scares you..selectable lockers are great when they work. 3 ARBs and they all leaked eventually which really sux on the trail along with pressurizing the case and pushing gear oil out of the vent. I'm sure someone will chime in and go on about how they've had one and it's the pooh and all that, I've had three, they all leaked and the one in my D44 ripped all the side gears off of it. I put lockright in my front 60 and haven't broken it yet and I'm not easy on the gas.
 
I say I'd do t-case gears or r&p first. But that's just me. Yes if you lock the front it will probably make the biggest difference offroad but you are going to break birfs. Not saying it will be imediate but you will break them.
 
Winch is a good idea.

Once you start building your crap to be real hardcore it will only take you to more dangerous places that a winch can save your ars with.

i like the detroit up front and spool in the rear but i only drive mine onto the trailer. keep your 4.10's and go duals with 4.7's in the rear case eventually.
super birfs or the 30 spliners will make the day more fun but trail repair is cool too. below is thread from PBB for front case and adapter $410 shipped thats a good deal.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=407016
 
My opinion...

4.7 gears for the case
Front locker (lockright...espeical if you are going to stay with a smaller tire)
chromoly 27 spline longs
then duals...etc....

The 5.29s are nice if you DD your rig...but the 4.7 gears will take you father in the woods. The lower gears give you a lot more control.

As far as strength....i am running 5.29s and have broken then yet. Broke several inner shafts...and some lockright pins
 
I would say winch and get the kind that is removable so you can use front or back. but you have to get a winch mount brush gaurd or winch mount bumper or the reese hitch mount for the front.

One too many times, I was the only rig in a group to have a winch, and I went first. found I needed the winch in the rear. luckily I have been able to strap out of all of these situations except one. it took us nearly nine hours of digging and tugging and 2.5 ton come alonging to get it back out of there.

When I finally get mine back together, it will have an interchangable mount on it.

but I would go with a winch first if you can afford it.
then the locker
then the t case gears
then the 5:29's cause by that time you'll want bigger tires anyway

the winch has been the handiest asset on my rig.
 
I agree with going with a winch first. A winch will take you wherever you want to go,it just won't be as fun.

A front locker is also a good idea. I do not think you have to upgrade your birfs just b/c you put a locker in it. I ran stock birfs and 36'a for a year without breaking one. I finally got tired of having to pull cable b/c i was scared to give it some hell and upgraded to 30 spline longs.

If you don't mind the way your truck drives on the road now, I know a couple of guys who are running stock ring and pinions and dual cases or 4.7s. They have pleny of gearing off-road.
 
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