Nissan/D44 Steering Question

Lurch830

Lurch830

messin' with sasquatch
Joined
Mar 1, 2007
Location
Albemarle, NC
Did a SAS with an '89 Grand Wagoneer D44 on my '97 Nissan Hardbody. Setup works pretty well except that I can't turn. I can turn my steering wheel from lock to lock and I don't even come close to getting the axle to go from lock to lock.

I think I need a longer pitman arm (not a dropped arm, just a longer one), but can't find one.....any other opinions? All the threads I can find on the web say to get a shop to extend it or extend it yourself.....is that a safe way to go?

Just looking for some options so I don't have to 5-point turn for every 90* bend on the trails!

TIA,
Brandon
 
Ok, for starters, you don't have a steering stabilzer bottoming out do ya? if not, we are probably going to need some info about your draglink, like where it's attached and what angle is it at now. If your draglink is at a pretty steep angle and you put a drop pitman arm on it,it will allow for more steering. A pic or info would better help us.
 
I don't think the stabilizer is bottoming out, but I'll definately check that when I snap a pic tonight.
 
... or go crossover steering. Many of the high steer arms will require less throw on your pitman arm.
 
I'm pretty darn sure he has a high steer arm on the passenger side. If i yota arm will fit I'd roll that way. If you need the reamer let me know.
 
Alex is right, I've got high steer arms and spacers on both knuckles.

I can turn the steering wheel 3.75 times from wheel-lock to wheel-lock with the stabilizer connected & disconnected, so I don't think the stabilizer is bottoming out.

I was able to snap some pics last night......
passenger wheel-lock
View attachment ai55.tinypic.com_iml468.jpg

passenger wheel-lock, driver tire
ai54.tinypic.com_fy0qqa.jpg


passenger wheel-lock, passenger tire
ai56.tinypic.com_x5rt50.jpg


driver wheel-lock
ai54.tinypic.com_160270y.jpg


driver wheel-lock, driver tire
View attachment ai56.tinypic.com_30vmywx.jpg

driver wheel-lock, pitman arm
ai54.tinypic.com_2a5myrb.jpg


driver wheel-lock, passenger tire
ai55.tinypic.com_2li93km.jpg


driver wheel-lock, stabilizer
ai55.tinypic.com_o541fs.jpg


passenger wheel-lock, stabilizer
ai56.tinypic.com_1178kes.jpg


I've got a yota arm I'll see if I can file out the splines to fit over the Nissan keyed shaft
 
hopefully not....only one way to find out!
 
Update:
Researched the Chevy 1-ton reamers a bit, the snap-on version is for hand use to basically debur an already reamed hole and they say should NOT be used in a drill press. I bought the XKUT version, part number is #5952 (~$80 on ebay). Make sure you have the capability to turn the reamer at around 100 rpm. At 280 & 200rpm, the bit would grab and stall the drill press!

Overall, with ballistic fab steering arms and moving the axle back 1", I gained 0.5" in each direction which roughly measures 1.5" at the tires (with 36" iroks). Very happy with it so far on the street, and no contact issues as of yet...
 
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