Oil Cooler

etjeep

etjeep

New Member
Joined
Apr 20, 2005
Location
Cary, NC
OK Motorheads,
Anyone running an oil cooler? If you were installing a temp sender, would you monitor the "hot" oil to the cooler or the cooled oil returning. I chose the latter because it was a cleaner installation with less fittings, etc. Is this a screw-up?
The motor is an AMC V-8. Here is the temp guage I am using http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1466021410069564115zBiBFs
Thanks for any input.
 
my new (2me) truck has a factory oil cooler its got the 7.4 (454) ill take a peek in the next few days and see where on the block the lines come from.. I think its just a pressure feed out and dumps it back into the pan.. I think the oil temp is more consistent vs spikes like a tranny.. Mine seems like its very hot compared to other vehicles i've had... Ill be considering some good quality oil...
 
Thanks Mike, I would appreciate that. The geek in me wants the capability to monitor every conceivable parameter, but in this case a cleaner installation has more appeal.

In my case, I have a pancake at the filter, so the oil flows from the pump through the pancake, diverting flow to the cooler. Return from the cooler goes back into the pancake, through the filter, then back into the pan. I believe this is fairly typical.
 
Also, not that it matters, but the pancake is thermostatically controlled, so the flow is diverted to the cooler when the temp exceeds 180 or 190 for faster heat up IIRC.
 
Yag, the oil cooler feeds and dumps at the filter boss. it is an adapter that bolts in place of a regular filter adapter.

Cooler lines feed into the left side of the rad side tank.

Be very watchful of those cooler lines, if they are seeping, REPLACE them, they have been known to blow off at the crimp.
Also watch the connections at the rad. The exchangers inside the tanks have been known to crack as well, they are aluminum, and only expand/contract so much before they crack.

Big blocks in those bodies ran hot, 210* is not abnormal

I fought a dually a few years ago, damn thing would heat up if you rode with the AC on around town, or were driving at freeway speed. I checked everything, TIming, water pump (repalced) fan clutch, checked for blown/cracked head had a new radiator in it BUT, it was a LARGE core three row rad, factory was a 4 core small tube. that made the differance. Physically they were the same size, the core body same thickness tank size all that.

Put a new factory rad in it, and it stayed cool, rode right at 210 most of the time.
Some of those trucks had an airdam under the bumper to push air up into the grille, and yes it makes a differance.
 
I think I used the wrong technical term in an earlier post. I called it a pancake and I think its a actually called a sandwhich.....damn I'm gettin hungry.
You got the idea of what I was saying Kevin, it goes where the oil filter mounts. I had to use a standard spin on oil filter instead of the premium filter, theres about an inch difference and the sandwhich took away some of my clearance for the filter.
You know this all started when I was going to install the "oil cooler" heat exchanger I picked up at the BMC yard sale as a PS cooler. When I opened the box, the sandwhich was the right size and it had all the lines and fittings. I used 1/2" Al tubing from the sandwhich out just to keep it neat.
BTW I picked up a neato tubing bender for $3 at Northern. My little bender would not do 1/2" w/o crimping. Worked like a charm.
My yard sale find came with an extra GM style sandwhich plate (brand new) that is too big for my AMC. I would be willing to sell it for $20. They are more on Summit.
 
Eric, I may be interested in that adapter, I'll get with you after Xmas and see if it'll work for my app.
 
I have zero experience with an oil cooler. I am curious as to how well it works. I would love to see numbers comparing before(in the engine) temps, vs after going through the cooler temps. I have often wondered about this. I know the worse thing for conventional oil is temp, and contamination, ultimately leading to viscosity breakdown. Any thoughts and or experience with this?
Sorry if this is too unrelated, but it did spark my curiosity
 
Ridgerunner said:
Eric, did you install the Starter to D60 proximity Sensor? :driver:
Click to expand...

Thanks Carl....
I have everything to do the spring over instead, but not going to start that until i get the motor fired. I need some new wiring and various other misc things to do, but I am close.:popcorn:
 
upnover said:
I have zero experience with an oil cooler. I am curious as to how well it works. I would love to see numbers comparing before(in the engine) temps, vs after going through the cooler temps. I have often wondered about this. I know the worse thing for conventional oil is temp, and contamination, ultimately leading to viscosity breakdown. Any thoughts and or experience with this?
Sorry if this is too unrelated, but it did spark my curiosity
Click to expand...

I did mine because
1. I already had the stuff.
2. No EGR means hotter combustion temps
3. 180K motor (rebuilt by PO at 120), no sense pushing it.
 
sprinkler1228 said:
Look at this
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=2679
Click to expand...

That link is for a pre-luber (which oils your engine prior to ignition), and probably would make your engine last a very long time. I already added the oiling improvement for the AMC to the rear bearing and timing chain, which may add some life (time will tell). http://rides.webshots.com/album/465886715Mjdxjx?start=60 (sheet 6 in Oiling Improvements).

Good thought, but lets stay on topic, this thread is about oil cooling installations.
 
Got all my coolers installed last night. I added the oil cooler in addition to the tranny cooler and power steering (just another smaller tranny cooler). Here are a few shots in my album:
http://community.webshots.com/album/556534971OdxrYj
I had to rework a few things so I could get some clearance around my alternator. The hoses tuck up nice under the battery tray. I sleeved everything going through the body.
Enjoy...
 
Looking at the pic's be careful where you install the aux. coolers they can cause pre heated air into your radiator above the ambient air & ultimately cause a heating issue
 
Well,the heat has to be rejected somewhere. In all honesty I have not had any problems with my radiator overheating just running the tranny cooler. In addition, I deleted the AC condenser from the stack, so if anything I should get more air flow to counter the newly configured stacked coolers. Thanks for your input.
 
I too will be interested to hear what it does "normal" (trail) temps. I'd be interested to find out both WHO made the adapter & WHERE could I get one... Or maybe a remote filter adapter, which could be run through a cooler?

Your install is clean, but one thing that comes to mind... the engine will be subject to considerable side-side movement and vibration. With the hardlines out of the adapter being unsupported, I'd look for the AL tube to crack/break/leak pretty soon. IMO, you'd have been better off running hose from the adapter to hardline routed through the grill to hose on the cooler end. The hardlines could then be cinched down so they don't move/flex & break... OTOH, the constant wiggling/vibration of the hose will probably cause the same thing...

Keep us in the loop bro! :beer:
 
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