Oil Filter Thoughts? Jeep 4.0

NickMaul

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 4, 2009
Location
Norfolk, VA
Not sure if this has really been covered. I know 4.0s will run on any oil what so ever. For those running synthetic though, what is your interval?

I am using rotella t6 with an stp "XL" filter. This jeep probably sees 10k a year. Filter claims 10,000 miles but have my doubts since it is the same size as the mopar filter I picked up from Walmart before.

Should I do a 5k interval? Or 10k and change filter half way through?

Here is the filter box.
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Run a bigger filter. I ran a FL1A on my jeep. Or whatever high dollar version of the Ford fl1a you like

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A bigger filter would be better, but I have a really hard time running oil over 5k miles. Sure it doesn't break down, but with a Jeep we all know how bad they are at leaking so not like it is really a closed system any more. Just peace of mind, I change all my cars at 5k.

Just don't run a Fram filter. Seriously. Don't.
 
I've got an FL-1A on one, and a Fram (that was free) on the other. Normally FL-1A on both.
 
The XP filters are supposedly a slightly higher micron rating filter media, so the same filter media surface area will flow longer without getting clogged. I'm not sure that lower filtration is a great tradeoff for longer life, and I'm not a believer in getting every last ounce of performance out of oil until it's flopping on the floor dying, so I don't use the XP filters or do crazy long intervals.

I use Wix almost exclusively, or the NAPA Gold which are made by Wix. Don't know where the Jeep model Wix filters are made, but everything I've used has been either made in the Gastonia NC plant, or sometimes in Poland. You can never go wrong with Wix/PureOne/Mann/Hastings/Bosch for quality.

I don't own a Jeep, but I've heard that Purolator and Wix make the OEM Mopar filters, depending on region/country.
 
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Great info guys. I came across a wix filter that is the larger ford filter. Wix 51515 I will look for the FL-1A or wix next time I am out :)
 
Great info guys. I came across a wix filter that is the larger ford filter. Wix 51515 I will look for the FL-1A or wix next time I am out :)

The 51515 is the cross ref to FL-1A, either should work great. The FL-1A is apparently made by Purolator for Motorcraft, and is highly regarded.

The Wix 51515 is the NAPA Gold 1515, if you have a local NAPA.
 
A bigger filter would be better, but I have a really hard time running oil over 5k miles. Sure it doesn't break down, but with a Jeep we all know how bad they are at leaking so not like it is really a closed system any more. Just peace of mind, I change all my cars at 5k.

Just don't run a Fram filter. Seriously. Don't.
I completely understand where you're coming from, but...
Newer engines have less blowby, are built 'tighter' and have less crap get into the oil to break it down. 7-10k drain intervals are common, and on my wife's honda, the oil isn't even black when I drain it. Sent off a sample once @10k, specs, we're still acceptable.

Also, hours run and type of running are way more important than miles.

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1 factor not mentioned.
If a vehicle sits un-driven for long periods of time. Temp cycles and less than perfect oil seals can lead to condensation produced moisture accumulation in oil.
That is why most equipment has a miles or time spec.
 
1 factor not mentioned.
If a vehicle sits un-driven for long periods of time. Temp cycles and less than perfect oil seals can lead to condensation produced moisture accumulation in oil.
That is why most equipment has a miles or time spec.

Part of that is fuel dilution too, for the same reasons of short thermal cycles and no real mileage accumulation. Turbo cars tend to be a bit bad for that with their conservative air:fuel ratios that are slightly silly when cold.
 
I only run Wix or Purolator filters. Our DD vehicles get oil changes at 5000 miles with 1/2 quart of Lucas Oil Stabilizer. My 92 Yota gets its oil changed every year. I run Rotella and Lucas in it. I maybe put 500 miles a year on it.
 
I only run Wix or Purolator filters. Our DD vehicles get oil changes at 5000 miles with 1/2 quart of Lucas Oil Stabilizer. My 92 Yota gets its oil changed every year. I run Rotella and Lucas in it. I maybe put 500 miles a year on it.

Just out of curiosity, why are you adding oil stabilizer (thickener?) to good quality oil...?
 
Just out of curiosity, why are you adding oil stabilizer (thickener?) to good quality oil...?

Cause I like it. It may not do much, but as tacky as it is, it may help the oil stick better for cold starts. Im not an engineer, so I may be completely flawed.
 
The FL-1A is apparently made by Purolator for Motorcraft, and is highly regarded.

Yup. Supposed to be made by Purolator, and it's like $3. Maybe $4 or $5 nowadays, but always one of the cheapest ones on the shelf.
 
A bigger filter would be better, but I have a really hard time running oil over 5k miles. Sure it doesn't break down, but with a Jeep we all know how bad they are at leaking so not like it is really a closed system any more. Just peace of mind, I change all my cars at 5k.

Just don't run a Fram filter. Seriously. Don't.

I run the high zinc content amsoil and their filter. Change it once a year which is less than 10k miles and it doesn't leak a drop (of engine oil, trans is another story). It spends 99.9% of its time in a climate controlled garage so moisture and condensation from temp change isn't a concern.
 
Yup. Supposed to be made by Purolator, and it's like $3. Maybe $4 or $5 nowadays, but always one of the cheapest ones on the shelf.

You'd be surprised how many filters are made by Purolator, just a different colored can. :lol:
 
Just don't run a Fram filter. Seriously. Don't.

Seriously, I would like to hear/see a factual explanation to back that statement up. I've used Fram filters for the past 50+ years. My father used them before that. I've never had a problem... and don't remember Dad ever having a problem. And that's not hearsay... it's experience. For the record, I don't own stock in Fram, and I don't stand to gain a cent for defending them. Fram been around for many, many years and if they were as bad as some people say I seriously doubt they would have survived this long. Just another opinion. :driver:
 
Seriously, I would like to hear/see a factual explanation to back that statement up. I've used Fram filters for the past 50+ years. My father used them before that. I've never had a problem... and don't remember Dad ever having a problem. And that's not hearsay... it's experience. For the record, I don't own stock in Fram, and I don't stand to gain a cent for defending them. Fram been around for many, many years and if they were as bad as some people say I seriously doubt they would have survived this long. Just another opinion. :driver:

It's not that they're all bad, it's that there are much better filters for very little price difference. Some of the Fram lines are complete garbage, some are better (ToughGuard for example), some are very good (Extended Guard). Even crap oil filters work, they just don't work nearly as well as better filters.
Using a classic Fram instead of a Mann or Wix or whatever doesn't mean your engine is going to blow up, it just won't have the best protection possible. That doesn't prove that Fram is as good as other filters. Lack of a failure doesn't prove good relative performance. I'm just stating the obvious.

Theres a lot of factual information about why some Fram lines are poor, and info about why ToughGuard are better, and why Extended Guard is a good filter. There is a very large forum dedicated to such nerdy pursuits as oil chemistry and filter testing. The orange Frams have poor manufacturing quality, the smallest amount of filter media of most/all filters you can buy, it goes on and on.

The regular orange Extra Guard are a low-end filter and are traditionally the targets... We've all heard the stories of separating cardboard end caps, leaks, and collapsing/disintegrating filter media, but they still sell millions of them every year. The ToughGuard is a better filter, but still uses cardboard/phenolic end caps. It's internally a better product than the orange Extra Guard, just going by the specs and the internal dissections I've seen.

I'm not anti-Fram, I just have model lines I'd rather use instead based on research I've done. I'd use a Extended Guard with little hesitation, and trust their quality control has improved as much as it's reported to be.

That's mostly based on price and quality. If a cheaply made filter is $3-4 online, and a very good filter is $5-6, why would I ever mess with the cheaply made filter? They're both cheap, relatively speaking. It's the lowest quality name brand filter you can generally buy, and often not even the least expensive. I've seen orange Fram filters in stores for more money than Purolator, which is just totally wrong.

Seriously though, if you care about the oil filter on your engine, the orange Fram is probably the last filter I'd use when compared to the other options out there.
 
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Seriously, I would like to hear/see a factual explanation to back that statement up. I've used Fram filters for the past 50+ years. My father used them before that. I've never had a problem... and don't remember Dad ever having a problem. And that's not hearsay... it's experience. For the record, I don't own stock in Fram, and I don't stand to gain a cent for defending them. Fram been around for many, many years and if they were as bad as some people say I seriously doubt they would have survived this long. Just another opinion. :driver:

I used to work in the test lab for Purolator. I could make a Fram filter fail with very minimal dirt add. They have these really crappy seals that fail with the slightest pressure. The Purolator filters could take a ton of dirt before failing. I have also had a few Frams fail on me in cars before I realized how crappy they were.

And this is not a biased opinion. I absolutely hate Purolator as a company and it was the worst job I have ever had, but I still use their filters. That should say something.
 
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