Oil suggestions...

Which would you use....

  • Amsoil

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Royal Purple

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Other "off the shelf" brand

    Votes: 4 100.0%
  • Total voters
    4
RobMcBee

RobMcBee

Slow n easy when you're not gettin greasy....
Joined
Jan 12, 2009
Location
Fort Mill / Indian Land SC
Heres the situation. We have a 2011 Jeep Liberty that we bought brand new. When we bought it, the dealer gave us a free service plan that has just expired. I plan on starting to do the service work myself from now own but want make sure I'm not doing anything to void my warranty. Seems simple enough, but I've read of these engines spinning the bearings pretty easy.


What say you mechanical gurus?
 
Does the manual call for full synthetic? Buy whatever they say and replace it on their interval. I say buy whatever is cheap.

Don't the Libbys drop valve seats?
 
I can't see going wrong with a good 5w30 full syn. regardless of brand.
 
Supertech from Walmart. It's cheap, and the independent tests and analysis numbers I've seen people pull with it make it seem like it's a pretty damn good oil! If it's been fed synthetic, I'd probably stick with that. Putting high-dollar oil in a motor that's likely going to see a catastrophic failure regardless of what you feed it seems like money down the drain to me. I know the Libbos are fraught with problems. I don't like 'em, so I haven't read much on them, but hear a lot about them having big motor issues. Does oil really seem to make a difference in people's results?
 
Infamous1 said:
What oil does the fill cap say? Just make sure you change it regularly, most failures I see are from neglect.
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I've stayed with the manufacturer recommended intervals and plan to keep doing so. That's one thing I can say is that I've always maintained my vehicles. EDIT : reading into the manual, the manufacturer only recommends changing the oil every 8k miles... I've been doing it at 3k or close to it.

catfishblues said:
Does oil really seem to make a difference in people's results?
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Haven't really read anything on whether it had or not, that's kind of why I was asking if it'd be worth it to spend the extra coin and go synthetic to make it last longer.

shawn said:
Does the manual call for full synthetic? Buy whatever they say and replace it on their interval. I say buy whatever is cheap.
Don't the Libbys drop valve seats?
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Haven't heard that one, I'll have to look more into it. Manual only states the grade. 5w-20.


This one has the factory towing package also which is supposed to include an oil cooler. (There's an extra radiator in front of the ac condenser) I'm hoping that will also keep the problems a bit lower.
 
SuperTech is repackaged Penzoil, so it's decent stuff. I ran Havoline dino oil and now Mobil-1 synthetic. Amsoil is good stuff, but it's not usually on the shelves near me. I absolutely won't give any consideration to Royal Purple. I want to be able to see the color of my oil when I change it, plus I've seen a few vehicles that had bad experiences with it. Their gear oil is terrible, btw.
 
No need to church up the oil in a 3.7. Run any API certified 5w20 and call it done.
Wanna know what kind of oil your local dealership uses in bulk? Call around and see what oil the nearest distributor sells cheapest. We used Kendall, Pennzoil, Valvoline among others over my 14 years at the dealer.
 
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thanks guys, great info. I'm just gonna run an off the shelf brand in it and call it a day. This thing is 4 years old and just broke 40k. It doesn't get driven much. It is what it is a baby hauling grocery getter but want it to last a few years after we pay it off.

I use rotella t in my older engines. I've always heard the zddp would kill a cat but have never had it happen yet.
 
RobMcBee said:
EDIT : reading into the manual, the manufacturer only recommends changing the oil every 8k miles... I've been doing it at 3k or close to it.
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Yeah, that's a waste of money. Just do it on their interval. New cars are doing anywhere from 5-10k typically. Hell, even my CTD gets 7,500 between changes on the "severe service" interval.
 
Zddp is a must for flat tappet lifters.

Most newer engines with roller lifters aren't hurt as bad without having the zddp.

Also, most extended service diesel oils should be changed on gas engines at normal service intervals.
 
I have been using Rotela in all my old trucks now for 15-20 years now. Even ones with cats and no problems at all.
 
These 3.7s utilize roller tip rockers and typical (just small) hydraulic lifters. Friction isn't an issue with them. Too bad nobody make an oil that lubricates AND adheres the valve seat to the head better...
 
It's a roller cam, run whatever synthetic that tickles your fancy.
 
You may need pick a better filter when going to longer to change intervals. Basic filters are intended more frequent changes. Parts stores salesperson was unaware of this when I purchased synthetic oil and filter
 
For normal commuter and highway use, pick any of the brand name synthetics and be done with it. Mobil1, Castrol, Pennzoil, Valvoline, etc., are all good choices, and I likely wouldnt change rated viscosity if you have a stock engine under normal driving conditions. Fuel economy will often suffer if you do. Amsoil is great but is quite expensive to put in a commuter car for normal driving.

Base your oil change interval on the type of driving that you do. If you do mostly short trips, change at lower mileage because you might have problems with fuel dilution. Oil is cheap but oil condition is important, and I don't care about squeezing every last mile out of it by stretching the oil change interval out as far as possible. Plus, oil changes are easy and give me warm fuzzy feelings about proper vehicle maintenance.

If you want to make your head swim with information, visit Bob Is The Oil Guy (BITOG) forums.
 
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