Opened NP231 and now I can't steer

loki_racer

loki_racer

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 7, 2005
Location
Pittsburgh, PA
I'll do my best to describe the situation. My NP231 was rebuilt and had a SYE installed. The guy that did the install didn't cut down the shift rod so it wouldn't shift in to 4wd.

Today I removed the rear driveshaft. Removed the SYE housing from the transfer case. I cut the rod down so roughly one inch was exposed. Reinstalled the SYE housing and the rear driveshaft.

I pulled the XJ off the lift, and it drove fine in a straight line. However, it will not turn.

If I lift the front end off the ground, it will turn fine.

With the tcase in N and transmission in N, and the front end off the ground, I can not spin either of the front wheels forward, only in reverse. Maybe I didn't try hard enough, but I thought I should be able to freely spin the front wheels.

I'm fairly sure I have the shift level adjusted correctly. With the jeep in R or D, and the tcase in N, I can roll the jeep forward and backwards, which I assume means the tcase is in neutral.

With the little amount of steering that I could do, I never heard the locker unload.

Any ideas?
 
Ok. So I guess I learned something new. You can't "steer" on dry roads in 4wd. I have never driven on pavement with 4wd, so wasn't aware what it felt like.

The tcase is the issue. It won't exit 4wd.

See video for explination:


I tried reversing and driving forward 20 feet or so to see if that would release the 4wd. No luck. When I pulled the SYE housing off, is there something I could have jacked up inside to stop 2Hi from working? 2Hi was working before I opened the housing. When I leave 4Hi and enter 2Hi the part-time light goes off.
 
Did you have the linkage apart for the shifter? If you dropped the whole unit this would be the case. Maybe check the linkage for proper motion. If you can jack all fours up and hand spin the drive shafts while manipulating the shift rail assymbly before tearing into the case. This will show how its opperating, had your previous installer done this on the bench or under the vehicle you wouldn't be in this mess.
 
After a call to Rides of Conover (by the way Brandon and Scott are straight up the pimpin'est guys I know), they told me the shift rod is likely snagging on the inside of the SYE housing. I didn't bevel the rod when I ground it down, so what they were saying made sense.

I popped the SYE housing off again. Low and behold, the shift rod, even when the shifter is in 2wd, the rod is in 4wd. Check the video:



The rod slides so well that if I push it to 2wd, roll the Jeep out of the shop, start it, put it in drive and accelerate, shift rod floats backwards engaging 4wd.

I guess I have two options. I'm considering finding a bolt that is hollow (will hold a spring) that fits in the SYE housing. The spring would simply push the mode rod forward when I move to 2wd and hold it there. The other option is cracking the case open. I guess it can be done without pulling the entire thing out of the Jeep, but I'm not sure at this point.

awww.drivetrain.com_images_stories_product_imgs_large_np231d_large.jpg


#48 in this image is what I need. Anyone sell them?
 
There is no reason to pull the case to repair this issue. Just unbolt the rear case half and do what ya gotta do.
Really easy at this point.
Good luck Buddy!
 
Lee said:
make sure the spring is on the back of the shift rod also! (#48 in your diagram)
Click to expand...
That's what I'm betting is missing.
Someone I know might have done this with his tcase. :lol:

Exact same symptom.
Cept I "could" steer, just wasn't easy, but had to drive it anyway cause i was starving.
I mean, the guy I know had to. :shaking:

Good luck.
 
Where you are talking about taking the bolt out, & pushing the rod in; could you stick a spring in there, to keep it pushed in, & have enough coil space, for it to shift to 4?
 
yep, I'm thinking #48 fell out is broke or plain missing. I've done those kits in and out of the vehicle. Just make sure the pump pickup tube and related stay put on re assymbly or else you'll cook the bearings real quick like. Even stock height laying on the ground isn't to bad on one of these. Its pretty darn light weight.
 
rodney eppes said:
Where you are talking about taking the bolt out, & pushing the rod in; could you stick a spring in there, to keep it pushed in, & have enough coil space, for it to shift to 4?
Click to expand...
This is what I was going to try until I can find a company that will sell me a #48.


WARRIORWELDING said:
yep, I'm thinking #48 fell out is broke or plain missing. I've done those kits in and out of the vehicle. Just make sure the pump pickup tube and related stay put on re assymbly or else you'll cook the bearings real quick like. Even stock height laying on the ground isn't to bad on one of these. Its pretty darn light weight.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the pointers. Once I can get that spring purchased, I guess I'll be learning how to open the transfer case. Everyone says it can be done leaving it in the Jeep. We'll see.
 
we hardly ever take the case out of the jeep... if there are hardware type stores in italy i bet u can find a generic spring to replace #48
 
hey, I had your front drive shaft out when I was searchng for your vibration. We already had the skid in too. Losen the axle end first to make it easier to get at the rear hardware by rotating it as needed. Its a real pain in the !@@ but it can be done. If you can't get a steelership to work call me I'll buy it and get it shipped.
 
you do not need to mess with the front ds or yoke to replace the spring. just pull the rear case half off and replace the spring. You are not messing with the chain or main shaft so no need to unbolt the front.
 
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