Ox vs ARB

1stgenxxx

1stgenxxx

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2005
Location
Hudson
Steering sucks with a welded front diff so I'm looking at Locker options. It pretty much comes down between an ARB and an OX cable locker.
I google searched a came up with some numbers
Ox locker- comes with diff cover and lever but no cable
$980
ox locker cable $125
ARB- There is an Ebay vender selling them for 890
Arb compressors run about $130ish
Which one of the two do yaul run? Likes and dislikes?

I've heard about o-ring problems with the ARB.
 
I dont have either, so I cant say with experience. I would like an OX. I have seen to many compressors quit while out riding with others who have ARBs.
 
OX all the way except.....

The fill plug location. Depending on how high your pinion is in relation to the oil line - it could create pinion bearing oil starvation.

It may be re tapped in another place, I haven't had a look at the inside of the cover.

If it's not a high pinion diff, don't worry about it.
 
It's a low pinion chevy 60
 
I have an ARB and love it. It was in my 03 f250 for almost two years with electric harbor frieght compressors. The arb worked great but the compressors sucked. I dont know how the actual arb compressors hold up. I used it almost every weekend at the local mud pit and once at ure. Then I got my 78 f150 and wheeled it for two years, never even engaging the hubs or 4wd at all on the f250 (the arb was just sitting there not even spinning). I even removed the electric compressor from the f250 after it quit working.

I swapped one ton axles (78 kingpin hp60, and 14bolt gm rear) into my f150 and swapped the arb from the f250 into the f150 and it still works flawlessly. I am running it with a york compressor and an 11 gallon tank on the 78 ford so there are no problems with compressors, and I can run air tools and fill tires on the trail.
 
I have no experience with the ox locker at all. But, I did have an ARB before I went to one ton's. My front leaked, and the ARB compressor run the whole time I had it engaged, but it never failed to lock in. I didn't have a reservoir at all, just straight to the compressor.
There are many alternatives to the ARB compressor. It is weak, and by it's self it takes a long time to pump up a tire.
A stock AC compressor will do the job a long with a reservoir tank. What ever come stock on your engine will work. Some better than others, but using what come on it makes brackets and such a lot easier.
The better electric compressors will work also. A tank is recommended.
I have seen some folks run a Co2 tank to power it.
I know mid 80's full size GM wagons had what was called levelers. Basically a compressor that pumped up air shocks. Looks very similar to an ARB compressor and if found at a auto salvage yard can be had cheap.
 
Thanks for the info
 
For the coin I'd like the Locker to be selectable. Then I could add line locks and drive it like a skid steer:driver:
 
I ran an Ox in both front and rear axles under my TJ for awhile. The only issue I had was the cable getting mis-alligned in my rear axle. This kept the rear locker from fully engaging (which is how I broke it).

Never had any issues with my front locker though.
 
I have ran ARB's for years. Never had one let me down, not had any compressor issues. Although slow, have even aired up tires with it. I did replace a copper air line in the diff once when a ring gear bolt backed out and caught the tubing. On the ARB, installation and air line routing is key. The folks I know with OX hated then due to the ongoing cable adjustments and not engaging properly.
 
Thanks for the input man.
 
I've ran an ARB in my front and rear axle for over 4 years without a single locker related problem to date and I've wheeled all over the country. As long as they are set up correctly, I'd say you should never have a problem with it. Mine has never leaked down or lost pressure.... when engaging the locker the compressor runs for less than 3 seconds. I also run the ARB mini compressor for space issues (I use Co2 for inflating tires, so if you have a secondary air system for tires, the mini compressor should work just fine for you). I clean the compressor's filter regularly, and all the wiring is done with marine connectors and heat shrink so I can't see the compressor ever giving me to much of a problem with such a small amount of run time.

I am a "on and off " locker guy, so I am constantly turning them on and off again for certain obstacles with no problem surfacing to date. The ease of use with an ARB is fantastic, the durability is widely known, and the thing is a work of art when you get to looking at it. During this one ton swap, it was enough of a difference for me to purchase them once again for this new build.

I'd say poor set up is probably the number 1 reason for most ARB difficulties. When they are done right, I'd say you'd be hard pressed to find anything better. IMO
 
You can run C02 instead of a compressor if you wish. It requires very little volume to engage.

I think you should consider a lockright or similar. They work amazingly well.
 
Lockrights are a simple design and cheap to boot, but they can still be problematic as well... ask Foreman1063 on how aggravating his lockright was out West when we went to Moab. He became another selectable convert :lol: soon after. Maybe for throttle heavy hill climb stuff it would be just fine, but on technical obstacles and side hilling where you don't want the locker engaged, a fully selectable locker is the way to go.

I don't know your rig, so I can only speak from my experience.

If you were asking what is the cheapest durable locker you can buy, I'd say go with a lunchbox locker such as the lockright. But since your wanting selectable, especially since your already complaining of steering troubles, the ARB would be my first choice.

Be prepared for some differing opinions!
 
I have an ox front and i like it. Ox now offers an air actuator if you're scared of cables. Once i got my cable adjusted i never had problems.
 
every ARB I've had sucked...it either leaked, or the side gear teeth stripped off. I'd like to have a selectable locker, but I hated spending that amount of cash for something that always seemed to have problems.
 
honestly I bet Chase could beat that ARB price once you pay for shipping and I'll bet you the ebay guy won't answer any phone calls telling you how to fix it
 
Looks like Chase is 910. WELL worth the $20 if you get an ARB, and he's cheaper on the ox.

I would buy a lockrite if it's for the front.
 
ARB's front and rear...and flawless performance...

ARB compressor...no problems...wired it to run the lockers independently (the factory wiring forces the rear to be locked before the front will engage)...

only "problems", as HANO said, have been installation...not on the lockers themselves (Andy @ CRS did them), but on the running of the air lines...got one pinched in suspension once (first run out after wheelbase stretch and 3-link rear), and one had extra slack and burned on the exhaust manifold...

Greg
 
thats $910 shipped and I have 2 on my shelf, but its cool my kid does not need to eat :flipoff2:

ARB's and OX's are both sweet in my opinion.

ARB's absolutely need to be set up correctly or problems will arise. If the inside diff work is done clean and correctly then all you have to do is route the line out of harms way. Not that difficult. ARB's scream for attention to detail and they work flawlessly. the exception to his rule is toy 8'' and ford 9'' the design of these suck and although we have done many with no issues. they are very easy to screw up. and the 9 inch one has a weak ring in no matter which chromoly one you get.

A properly set-up ARB and mini compressor will not cycle for at a minimum of every 15 minutes. I have had them hold for as long as 40 minutes. they really don't leak unless there is a problem.

they are faster and easier to shift then an OX and switches can be mounted in very convienient places.


The OX is strong and simple, easier to set up. A properly routed cable is crucial if it gets anywhere near a heat source the sheath acts like heat shrink and siezes the cable. the cables are very stiff and not that easy to route and find a good spot for for easy shifting. Added to that like any cable it will want to sieze b/c of its nature, it needs to be oiled and used. in an offroad truck that sits alot the cables just get stuck cause they are not used alot. the cable mechanism i think is in harms way on the front of the cover.

If it were mine i would put an ARB in it. If someone gave me an ox i would use it versus selling it. and i would mount the shifter on th dash or somewhere high east to reach aroung the t-case shifter.

both are great products most issues that have arrised in use are iinstallation errors not the products fault. both require more attention to detail then a regular locker set-up. the ARB more so.
 
I don't know your rig or it's use but you could go full hydro for less than the arb and have no issues with steering a welded diff.
 
I love my ARB's though I have had a couple air line problems. Which were my fault for not routing better. As for air I use a york w/ a 3 gallon tank and have had no problems.
 
marvilusone said:
I don't know your rig or it's use but you could go full hydro for less than the arb and have no issues with steering a welded diff.
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