Painting the inside of a house

Keith1138

Keith1138

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 18, 2015
Location
Harrisburg NC
Anyone ever used valspar ultra paint?
I have ran into so many issues with it. It is chipping when I take painters tape off of it when I gave it 4hrs to dry with good air flow before i put the tape on. It looks good and even but once it drys random spots of the previous paint pops through. It is also drying really fast like with in minutes it is tacky.
I'm using a woven style roller.

Any advice to avoid having to do a second coat on all of the walls.
It is suppose to cover in one coat. I'm gonna put a second coat on the two walls I have already done so they will look good.

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Kiltz it then paint, there's not a color in the world that'll fade through a good coat of kiltz. It can even be tinted to aid in the top coat color.

Also painters tape is supposed to be pulled off while its still wet, or just don't use it and learn to cut in with a good brush.
 
Yeah, pull the tape off while still wet. Otherwise where the paint bridges between the wall and the paint and it’s dried, you are trying to tear the paint on that seam and it sometimes chips and peels off irregularly.
 
I don't have any advice on tape since I always freehand cut everything with a 2.5 angled and roll the rest. I love SW acrylic latex.
 
Chris_Keziah said:
Kiltz it then paint, there's not a color in the world that'll fade through a good coat of kiltz. It can even be tinted to aid in the top coat color.
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Fuck Kilz. Kilz sucks. If you need a cover primer (I doubt it, but if you do), get oil-based Zinsser.
Keith Odom said:
Anyone ever used valspar ultra paint?
I have ran into so many issues with it. It is chipping when I take painters tape off of it when I gave it 4hrs to dry with good air flow before i put the tape on. It looks good and even but once it drys random spots of the previous paint pops through. It is also drying really fast like with in minutes it is tacky.
I'm using a woven style roller.
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Sounds like a low/zero VOC latex. They dry super fast. They're all going to act like that, and will require a minimum of 2 coats to get consistent coverage.

I'm pretty sure we used a bunch of Valspar at our house. SW is also good.
 
Okay so I'm using the tape because I'm repainting the baseboards and trim. And to help avoid mess ups on the floor and wall. I'm gonna try to use the tape on the floor and a piece of thin card board on the top of the base board as I go

Looks like I'm just going to use two coats every where then.

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Cutting in?

What I'm doing is painting about 5inches from all edges with a brush then rolling the rest of the wall.

Is there a better technique?

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shawn said:
Hire my buddy Sebastien.
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If my mom wanted to hire somebody she would have. But since I did a decent job on my room a few years ago she wanted me to paint to save some money.

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I've been using Benjamin Moore Sure Seal and 2 coats of their paint. Works great, and that's over top of old paint that's been sanded flat and lots of drywall touchups and faired-out areas where I've added that last coat of compound that should have been there when the house was built. I'm doing bodywork to my house.
Someday I'll get good at cutting in. There's always that one spot that I royally fuck up, even with a quality brush and proper paint load.
 
Chris_Keziah said:
Kiltz it then paint, there's not a color in the world that'll fade through a good coat of kiltz. It can even be tinted to aid in the top coat color.

Also painters tape is supposed to be pulled off while its still wet, or just don't use it and learn to cut in with a good brush.
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This.
I always use primer (Typically Kilz) if covering anything other than a perfect white. And especially mud/spackle patches so the shimmer doesn't shine through.
Also w/ the tape, if you don't peel it immediately, you need to wait a really long time, like a day, for it to be completely hardened. I've had the same problem as you when I get antsy and peel too soon.
 
RatLabGuy said:
This.
I always use primer (Typically Kilz) if covering anything other than a perfect white. And especially mud/spackle patches so the shimmer doesn't shine through.
Also w/ the tape, if you don't peel it immediately, you need to wait a really long time, like a day, for it to be completely hardened. I've had the same problem as you when I get antsy and peel too soon.
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Like pulling the paint off the wall behind the tap is the problem

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Keith Odom said:
If my mom wanted to hire somebody she would have. But since I did a decent job on my room a few years ago she wanted me to paint to save some money.

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That’s where you screwed up. I’m decent at painting. Not the speed of a pro but OCD enough about it to make it look reasonably good.

*Except when painting something I get roped into doing, i.e., painting my living room and bedroom and kitchen for the wife. When I do this, i procastonate as much as possible and do a shit job when it gets done. Now my wife just bugs me about who I’m calling to paint the house instead of bugging me to do it. Pressure washing also falls into this category.
 
Keith Odom said:
Cutting in?

What I'm doing is painting about 5inches from all edges with a brush then rolling the rest of the wall.

Is there a better technique?

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That is technically the definition of cutting in except if you're rolling I wouldn't go as far as to give it five inches just for that. All you really need there is 2 or 3 in. if I'm cutting in an area from the ceiling down to the top of door frames I'll just hand brush what's left in the middle. Where the real skill comes in is avoiding paint burn. It takes a lot of time and practice and staging to avoid that.
 
I usually cut in the width of a sash brush and roll the rest, forgot the tape, waste of time and money. If you need practice, I always practiced on corners of walls with matching colors, if you screw up, no problem, it gets covered anyway. I actually like valspar paint, but the last time I used it was probably a decade ago. Olympic paint sucks. So does Behr & color place. Valspar had good coverage, even going to a dark shade, but I rolled it pretty thick and used a 3/8" nap roller iirc. Just your typical roller cover.
 
Glidden, Valspar, Behr, etc are all decent paints. If you notice, most of the pros use either Sherwin Williams or Benjamin Moore. These are better paints...coverage, durability, ease of application, etc. Like so many others, I started with blue tape...moved to the green stuff (Frog tape) and now I just cut it with a brush.
 
I'm using the tape to keep the baseboard paint from getting on the walls doing that tiny top edge of the base boards

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just-call-the-man.jpg
 
A piece of flashing works as a cutting guide/shield as well. They actually sell something like it but with a handle and it's for cutting edges.. just keep a rag handy to wipe it every now and again.
 
ponykilr said:
There is one paint and Sherwin Williams is its name.
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That can start a fist fight among painters as quickly as a Ford vs. Chevy argument among car guys. :D
A lot of painters use both SW and BM (not usually at the same time) because both brands have advantages for certain stuff.

I wish I had the painting talent of a few of my extended family, who are paint pros but sadly live in the wrong part of the country to paint my house.
 
a_kelley said:
A piece of flashing works as a cutting guide/shield as well. They actually sell something like it but with a handle and it's for cutting edges.. just keep a rag handy to wipe it every now and again.
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I use a wide mud taping knife
 
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