Pics of the 68 Camaro I'm building

Blaze

The Jeeper Reaper
Joined
Aug 9, 2005
Location
Wake Forest, NC
I know some of you guys know about this and have helped with it, thought I'd share it with you.

I started building the car when Shawn left for Iraq a little over a year and a half ago. I started a webpage for it, http://www.patriotdream.org, and donations started pouring in for it. A few guys on here have given some parts, Clifford gave us the engine, and lots of guys on a bunch of other boards I post on have hooked us up as well.

Work has been a bit slow on it, but it is coming along. The guy doing the metal work had some other work he had to get out, but he's been working on the Camaro as he has time to. He's finished up a ton of it. The trunk floor is fabbed and installed, the rear has been minitubbed 3", the rear seat area has been all fixed up, and he's now getting into finishing up the final welds, cleaning up some of the welds, filling in some seams, fixing a bunch of the gaps and things on the car, and basically getting it ready for me to start getting it ready for paint once it gets back to my shop.

Here are the pics!
ai97.photobucket.com_albums_l201_Birdman79_Patriot_20Dream_20Camaro_CIMG0238.jpg

ai97.photobucket.com_albums_l201_Birdman79_Patriot_20Dream_20Camaro_CIMG0236.jpg

ai97.photobucket.com_albums_l201_Birdman79_Patriot_20Dream_20Camaro_CIMG0235.jpg

ai97.photobucket.com_albums_l201_Birdman79_Patriot_20Dream_20Camaro_CIMG0234.jpg

ai97.photobucket.com_albums_l201_Birdman79_Patriot_20Dream_20Camaro_CIMG0233.jpg


And a picture from when I gave the car to Shawn
ai97.photobucket.com_albums_l201_Birdman79_Patriot_20Dream_20Camaro_IMG_3172.jpg


For a quick rundown of the setup:
350 roller motor - 307 crank (to make it a 327) with forged Speed Pro .03 pistons, big Comp roller cam/springs/locks/retainers/etc, L98 heads resized with 2.02/1.80 stainless valves, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, Edelbrock carb, MSD distributor/wires/6AL+ ignition box, 125 shot of ZEX nitrous. Built by HRT Performance in Durham.

Super T-10 4-spd out of a 2nd gen Camaro. SPEC Stage 2 clutch and billet steel flywheel, Hurst Competition Plus shifter. Built by Tick Performance in Mooresville.

Suspension: VBC 2" drop rear springs, Hotchkis 2" drop front coils, Bilstein shocks spec'd for the ride height.

Brakes: LS1 brakes on all 4 corners, RotorsOnline.com rotors and Axxis pads.

Steering: IROC box with all new steering parts up front, Flaming River column and billet u-joint, Grant wheel

Interior: All new black standard interior (I like the look better than the deluxe) with Autometer Ultralite II gauges, LED indicator lights, hopefully a killer stereo.

Wheels are Bullit replicas with Toyo Proxes 4 tires.

Rear axle is a 12-bolt with a 3.55 gear, Auburn posi, and Superior axle shafts.

I'll keep you guys posted as the project progresses. Once it gets to my shop, We're going to be spraying the interior with Al's Sound Deadener and spraying the underside and firewall with color matched Scorpion.
 
Why 1/4 skins and not full quarters?

You've obviously got most of your sheetmetal but if there is anything you still need I'd reccomend Auto Metal Direct; their products are probably the best out there right now.

If you need help tracking anything down feel free to give me a shout.

-Steve
 
Because that's the way I bought it. :lol:

The guy I got it from replaced the floor pans, full passenger's quarter, driver's quarter skin, inner and outer rockers, lower cowl, upper dash panel, tail panel, outer wheelhouses, and the piece between the trunk and rear window.

Most of the car is new metal. This thing was RUSTED!

I replaced both doors, front fenders, both front inner fenders, inner wheelhouses, radiator support, cowl panel, header panel, hood, and lower valence panel.

Basically the transmission tunnel and the roof is all that is left. :lol:

If I need anything, I'll let you know! Thanks man!
 
The biggest mistake I see on a daily basis is guys thinking only part of the way through metal and rust replacement. (Meaning they don't take the time to fixture and cross reference the body when replacing floors and 1/4's etc. on a unibody car.) I have a customers car in right now, from a local shop which I won't be naming, that had the floors replaced, 1/4's, tail panel, inner and outter wheelhouses etc. after the shop painted the car and reassembled it they found the wheel base off by 1 & 7/8" side to side. Needless to say that particular '67 Mustang had to be completely stripped and fixtured because someone didn't know what they were doing.

Seriously though let me know when your going to get some of the basic parts coming in and I'll guide you to the right manufacturers (keeps you from dropping money on the crap parts).

-Steve
 
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