Piddlin'

I think this will be the preliminary ride height. It now has a full Rears Up Front pack with the overload. Best I can measure, wheel base is right at 110-111”. Rear drive shaft at ride height should be about 45”. Front is about 34”. I don’t plan to bob the bed. But hopefully can trim the fenders enough to make it look less ridiculous. As always, I’m open to suggestions.
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Pulled the radiator to access the back side of the front spring hanger. Was really hoping to get it welded in tomorrow but doesn’t look like weather is going to cooperate. I’m considering moving rear axle forward to center it in the wheel well vs hacking the back of the wheel well off to fit the stretched wheel base. I’d like some input. @cgm147 been looking for your old black trucks build thread.
 
Got the readi sleeve installed on the yoke and a new pinion seal. Had a heck of a time getting the cotterpin that locks the pinion nut out of the hole. Probably spent over an hour between drilling, punching, oiling, cussing. Got the nut on and back to its location from 1960 something. Can anyone give me the center to center bolt hole measurement for the pinion cartridge on a 14 bolt? I’m curious if the Barnes pinion guard will work with my
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Pulled the bed off to further head scratch, and maybe change up the leaf spring hanger locations. Hopefully weld some of the front parts tomorrow afternoon.
If anyone has a trail gear winch mount for a pickup, and is willing to pull a measurement or two, let me know.
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ProbablyBroke said:
Got the readi sleeve installed on the yoke and a new pinion seal. Had a heck of a time getting the cotterpin that locks the pinion nut out of the hole. Probably spent over an hour between drilling, punching, oiling, cussing. Got the nut on and back to its location from 1960 something. Can anyone give me the center to center bolt hole measurement for the pinion cartridge on a 14 bolt? I’m curious if the Barnes pinion guard will work with myView attachment 342589View attachment 342590
Pulled the bed off to further head scratch, and maybe change up the leaf spring hanger locations. Hopefully weld some of the front parts tomorrow afternoon.
If anyone has a trail gear winch mount for a pickup, and is willing to pull a measurement or two, let me know. View attachment 342591
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I have a tg winch mount for my 1st gen 4runner, prettty sure its the same as the truck. Let me know what measurements you need and I'll grab them for you
 
@YotaOnRocks
I’m looking for the length of the right angle legs that make up the winch mount. I’m guessing it’s 5-7 inches for each leg. Measure as if the fair lead mount was not there. I have access to a bunch of heavy gauge angle iron and am trying to get an idea of what size to look for.
 
ProbablyBroke said:
@YotaOnRocks
I’m looking for the length of the right angle legs that make up the winch mount. I’m guessing it’s 5-7 inches for each leg. Measure as if the fair lead mount was not there. I have access to a bunch of heavy gauge angle iron and am trying to get an idea of what size to look for.
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Copy that, I'll grab the measurements when I get home from work tonight.
 
Had to pull the pinion cartridge and yoke again last night. Came apart 1 million times easier than the first time. I must have got a bad batch of Permatex Ultra Grey, because the rtv never hardened after almost 24 hours.

@YotaOnRocks thanks for the measurements.
 
Got busy on it these past two days. Pulled the diff covers, resealed with rtv and new gear oil. Went ahead and finish welded the frame tubes for the front shackles, and front spring hanger to the frame. Measured for tie rod length and tack welded the bungs in. Going to need to knock the excess off the u bolts once I decide on the spring pack.
next order of business is to move the rear axle forward about 5 inches, plate the frame for the ifs steering box, mock up drag link. Waiting on @DannyH to stop being such an adult so I can pawn some of the stuff that takes thinking and experience on him.
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Been working really hard on this truck here lately. Everything seems to take me about 3 times longer than most folks, but it’s nice to be getting it done. I’d say a 1/4 of my day is spent taking off and putting on PPE.
-pulled the diff cover for the 3rd time because of leaks through the rtv. Made a gasket. Been dry so far.
- plated and sleeved the ifs steering box mount today. Next time, I’ll buy the darn kit for 45 dollars. Spent a while drilling the frame rails with HSS bits before I went to harbor freight and bought a 7/8” hole saw.
Certainly going to need some good bump stops to keep from smacking the pitman or frame .
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- I thought I would have 1350 joints at the front and rear yokes. Front 60 is 1310 and HO72 is 1350. Ordered a Toyota to 1310 I joint from Oliver’s and bolted up a spare long spline from an old Yota part out. I about ruined the joint 4 times with the ball joint press, but luckily had some spare u joint caps that fit.
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how do most folks make up the distance between the steering shaft rag joint and the steering shaft when you move the steering box forward?
I have about 1.25” I need to make up. Hoping to get the steering hooked back up tomorrow and weld in the rear leaf spring hangers.
 
ProbablyBroke said:
Been working really hard on this truck here lately. Everything seems to take me about 3 times longer than most folks, but it’s nice to be getting it done. I’d say a 1/4 of my day is spent taking off and putting on PPE.
-pulled the diff cover for the 3rd time because of leaks through the rtv. Made a gasket. Been dry so far.
- plated and sleeved the ifs steering box mount today. Next time, I’ll buy the darn kit for 45 dollars. Spent a while drilling the frame rails with HSS bits before I went to harbor freight and bought a 7/8” hole saw.
Certainly going to need some good bump stops to keep from smacking the pitman or frame .
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- I thought I would have 1350 joints at the front and rear yokes. Front 60 is 1310 and HO72 is 1350. Ordered a Toyota to 1310 I joint from Oliver’s and bolted up a spare long spline from an old Yota part out. I about ruined the joint 4 times with the ball joint press, but luckily had some spare u joint caps that fit.
View attachment 344224View attachment 344225

how do most folks make up the distance between the steering shaft rag joint and the steering shaft when you move the steering box forward?
I have about 1.25” I need to make up. Hoping to get the steering hooked back up tomorrow and weld in the rear leaf spring hangers.
Click to expand...
When I did my 4runner I was able to extend the factory slip joint In the steering shaft and still have plenty of engagement between the male and female. I can't remember but I had to drill or grind something to get them to slide apart.
 
Welded in a new spring hanger for the rear, forward 5 inches from stock. Moved the rear shackle hanger back to stock position. Hoping that the shackle angle will correct itself once I put the bed back on. This took my wheelbase from 110 to 105 and should center the tire in the wheel well. Waiting on new bushings to arrive so I can torque everything down and put the bed back on.
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When is this one going up for sale? I might be interested. :flipoff2:
 
Scored some .25” plate at the junkyard and took the dimensions from @YotaOnRocks to build a winch mount similar to the trail gear one. As usual, took me all day, but I feel accomplished and it was satisfying to burn some .25” on the bench. I tried to take plenty of pics along the way.
I had to weld the back side of the gussets from inside the engine bay. Hope to the radiator and fan installed tomorrow so I can bleed the steering.
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got the pinion angle set and rear spring perches welded on yesterday. Hated to do it in my unlevel gravel driveway, but it needed to get done. Couldn’t afford to have Oliver’s do my rear shaft, so I cut the slip section out and sent it to Taylor driveline in Monroe.
 
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Drilled some .25” angle to mount the fairlead to the winch mount. Uses the same two front bolts as the winch. I like this look, so hopefully I can stash the contactor in the engine bay. Picked up 24’ of 1.5” HREW. Hoping @hurt4x4 can bend up something similar or cooler than the low profile trail gear bumper. I need to ditch the steel cable and roller fairlead, especially since synthetic is so cheap these days.
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Decided to make some jack stands for when the f-250 gets sas and tall enough to set under frame rails on my buggy or the green Toyota. Haven’t found the right piece of steel for the top. Cut all the .25 plate with a 7” inch angle grinder, which was a delight. My plasma cutter is working intermittently.
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Got my rear driveshaft back from Taylor Driveline out of Monroe, NC. James is a good ol boy that builds a nice driveshaft for a reasonable price. I will definitely be going back just because of customer service alone. We will see how long I can keep it balanced. It’s a 1350 at the Eaton and Toyota slip, joint and flange at the t case.
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ProbablyBroke said:
Got my rear driveshaft back from Taylor Driveline out of Monroe, NC. James is a good ol boy that builds a nice driveshaft for a reasonable price. I will definitely be going back just because of customer service alone. We will see how long I can keep it balanced. It’s a 1350 at the Eaton and Toyota slip, joint and flange at the t case. View attachment 346605
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Nice, I've been trying to figure out where to get my driveshafts made.
 
He supplied the .100 wall tube and weld yoke. Cost me 265$ and had it done in two days from the time I gave him my measurements. To have the same shaft made in .250 wall would have been $400 with his material and additional machine work. Send me a PM if you want his number. @YotaOnRocks
 
Got a little more realistic about the ride height and shackle angle in the front. I added a short leaf to each side from a pack I had laying around.
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Welded in a rear cross bar and 2 lower shock mounts. Got the rear shocks located and welded the tabs in. Up travel isn’t going to be her strong suit with those shocks. They are 12” .
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When I bought the truck, it came with all new in box brake parts. I just placed a 130$ order for a bunch of soft rubber brake lines and a rotor from rock auto. Hopefully I can have it plumbed in the next week.
I cracked a brand new rotor hammering in wheel studs without grinding the shoulders down. So one side of the truck is on Jackstands till my order comes through .
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