Piping for rear radiator?

ORV design and fab

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Joined
Jul 11, 2009
Location
Raleigh area, NC
What's are you guys Piping the rear radiators with? I know some use various metal tubing, even through the chassis, but I'm on a Toyota chassis and was thinking of routing inside the chassis, I'm out of room mostly with the floor being right on top of the frame and 3 link on the front, Exhaust, etc. So I was thinking of cutting a hole in the side of my frame at an angle and routing some sort of rubber or plastic tubing in my frame well to keep it safe and utilize the wasted space. What y'all think?
 
Use a marine grade reinforced rubber hose. They are made for differing heats, long spans, coolant, and are pretty durable.
 
@stuntmanautoworks used a vynl (sp?) hose on his firewall buggy, seemed to work pretty good from what I seen.

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Use a marine grade reinforced rubber hose. They are made for differing heats, long spans, coolant, and are pretty durable.
Where do I get these and what do they look like? Thanks for the help!
 
I used steel pipe from lowes when i did a rear radiator in my Ranger cab truck. It was cheap and easy to get. I think i would try and find something better though.
 
Aluminum works well, and you can roll a bead on the ends to retain the hose at any couplings. Most of the rear radiator race cars and rear engine race cars with front mount radiators use a similar setup. Low weight, and smooth internal walls for low pressure drop.
 
Where do I get these and what do they look like? Thanks for the help!


I'd start by looking at your local marine repair shop or even West Marine as a starting point.

My local hydraulic shop has some really nice reinforced hose for reasonable. Maybe fund yours and see what they have as well.
 
Aluminum works well, and you can roll a bead on the ends to retain the hose at any couplings. Most of the rear radiator race cars and rear engine race cars with front mount radiators use a similar setup. Low weight, and smooth internal walls for low pressure drop.
Where would one find this? I like this idea for my buggy. It currently has aluminized exhaust tubing.

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Dillon supply or any metal supply should have the aluminum tubing. I have aluminum tubing, but I am wanting to run it in my factory frame, I have no room outside of the frame, so I am going to try and see if the reinforced marine tubing will work for me,
 
Emt conduit?

First, when using an ethylene glycol based heat transfer fluid, one must always use a heat transfer fluid that contains a corrosion inhibitor. Uninhibited ethylene glycol heat transfer fluids can decompose into various organic acids such as glycolic, glyoxylic, formic, carbonic, and oxalic acids. The decomposition is accelerated by high temperatures and these acids can be quite corrosive to many materials. Second, according to Dow Chemical (a manufacturer of ethylene glycol based heat transfer fluids), galvanized steel is not recommended for use with ethylene glycol heat transfer fluids, even if they are inhibited and especially if the temperature goes above 120 degrees F. The zinc coating of galvanized steel is designed to protect against atmospheric corrosion. At slightly elevated temperatures, zinc becomes cathodic to iron or steel reversing the galvanic series. Thus, the iron or steel will protect the zinc by corroding. In addition, phosphates in the inhibitor will react with the zinc, precipitating an insoluble material that can foul the system and encourage under-deposit corrosion. It would seem that galvanized steel is not a good material of construction choice for your application.
 
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This guy understands the science of fluids and stuff. I would listen to him. Or you could become a self proclaimed master of the science of fluids too and argue you know better.
 
First, when using an ethylene glycol based heat transfer fluid, one must always use a heat transfer fluid that contains a corrosion inhibitor. Uninhibited ethylene glycol heat transfer fluids can decompose into various organic acids such as glycolic, glyoxylic, formic, carbonic, and oxalic acids. The decomposition is accelerated by high temperatures and these acids can be quite corrosive to many materials. Second, according to Dow Chemical (a manufacturer of ethylene glycol based heat transfer fluids), galvanized steel is not recommended for use with ethylene glycol heat transfer fluids, even if they are inhibited and especially if the temperature goes above 120 degrees F. The zinc coating of galvanized steel is designed to protect against atmospheric corrosion. At slightly elevated temperatures, zinc becomes cathodic to iron or steel reversing the galvanic series. Thus, the iron or steel will protect the zinc by corroding. In addition, phosphates in the inhibitor will react with the zinc, precipitating an insoluble material that can foul the system and encourage under-deposit corrosion. It would seem that galvanized steel is not a good material of construction choice for your application.


Most automotive glycol is now propolyene;)
 
/\
This guy understands the science of fluids and stuff. I would listen to him. Or you could become a self proclaimed master of the science of fluids too and argue you know better.
I can bait a hook really good, probably be considered a master by most. Now I don't know how much in demand a self proclaimed master baiter is, most likely about as much as a fluid master.

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/\
This guy understands the science of fluids and stuff. I would listen to him. Or you could become a self proclaimed master of the science of fluids too and argue you know better.


Nope that guy knows Google and ctrl+c and ctrl+v I knew way back in my mind something about ANTIFREEZE and galvanized not playing well but that post is a copy and paste
 
BTW science of fluids much better than science of metals
 
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