Plasma fume (table)

WARRIORWELDING

Owner opperator Of WarriorWelding LLC.
Joined
Jan 6, 2008
Location
Chillin, Hwy 64 Mocksville NC
Any of you fellas running a table got suggestions on DIY down draft.
Looking for specifics on failures of design or components. Or the opposite.

The concept is not foreign. I just don't want to build to low of cfm, or purchase a crappy fan(blower).

HIGHLY Considering building a unit capable of filtration, cyclonic, with large particle dump. I want to preserve conditioned/heated air in the future.
 
I don’t have down draft table, but I do have about 1.5” deep water table. Minimal smoke only from long repetitive cuts.

Only thing I would recommend is doing some sort of water table, then the crm requirements are much less to evacuate and filter the air between the plate and water surface.


I want to build a dedicated grinding table with fume extraction.

Thinking of making the air flow come down from surface, then turn 180 back up vertically around a partition before entering the filters.

Probably use a salvaged blower from an indoor air handler for the fan.

Hopefully most of the heavy particles don’t make the 180° turn and stay in the “trap”. Thought about a water tray in This also after seeing how well the water tray in my plasma table works.

If I knew I had a fan that could pull decent static pressure without sacrificing a ton of efficiency, I’d actually suck the air through the water to filter it. That route may be possible with a big shop vac, but that is definitely less cfm.
 
I don’t have down draft table, but I do have about 1.5” deep water table. Minimal smoke only from long repetitive cuts.

Only thing I would recommend is doing some sort of water table, then the crm requirements are much less to evacuate and filter the air between the plate and water surface.


I want to build a dedicated grinding table with fume extraction.

Thinking of making the air flow come down from surface, then turn 180 back up vertically around a partition before entering the filters.

Probably use a salvaged blower from an indoor air handler for the fan.

Hopefully most of the heavy particles don’t make the 180° turn and stay in the “trap”. Thought about a water tray in This also after seeing how well the water tray in my plasma table works.

If I knew I had a fan that could pull decent static pressure without sacrificing a ton of efficiency, I’d actually suck the air through the water to filter it. That route may be possible with a big shop vac, but that is definitely less cfm.

My slats are very tall. How much are you submerging? I am also worried about excessive evap inside the building. I have also read a lot on cut quality and speed while using water. Biggest hurdle is my shop has no water supply. Being a noob I am not sure how often I will cut. Thought about completely draining after each use and some sort of bladder. A pump that will handle sediment is also high.

The down draft design would mimic, some very large tables. Central duct, covered by a deflector with a pull out slag tray. I think this will reduce wasted air pulling from a huge square shape. I plan on improvising draft measures from above as well.

I need to get the table under power and do some testing. If I bought a lemon the particular brand and age may dictate a lot. Reading on Plasmaspider has left me concerned about follow up support and bleeding cash.
 
My slats are very tall. How much are you submerging? I am also worried about excessive evap inside the building. I have also read a lot on cut quality and speed while using water. Biggest hurdle is my shop has no water supply. Being a noob I am not sure how often I will cut. Thought about completely draining after each use and some sort of bladder. A pump that will handle sediment is also high.

The down draft design would mimic, some very large tables. Central duct, covered by a deflector with a pull out slag tray. I think this will reduce wasted air pulling from a huge square shape. I plan on improvising draft measures from above as well.

I need to get the table under power and do some testing. If I bought a lemon the particular brand and age may dictate a lot. Reading on Plasmaspider has left me concerned about follow up support and bleeding cash.



My slats are roughly 2” tall. About 1.25” of water depth, roughly .75” air gap.


Takes about 10-15 gallons to fill up. I just fill up a 5 gal bucket and keep under table to either cool parts that come off the table to handle, or to top off the table.


I have to add 3/4 gallons every 2 weeks or so in a non conditioned shop.

I add a little borax to the water to keep it from being funky or rusting.

Can easily do a tank under the table with a couple valves. Hook air line to the tank.

Gravity drains the tank, increase air to tank to push water up into table.

Ideally drain it after the use, let it dry then shop vac out what settles before filling it for next time.

Chicken wire, screen, and scotchbrite pads work great to filter the water.

I’m going to build a setup like that eventually, for now, my table has been running since April, and I’ve added water 3 times. I’ll shop vac and clean it out once it gets real bad.


I had way too much borax to start with, I found it doesn’t take much at all.

I’ll probably also add essentially a framing square shape piece of material to act as a hard stop in one corner for squaring up plate. This will close off most of the open area, and allow me to use a bigger spare shop vac to pull vacuum on the space between the plate and water.

If you are worried about excessive evap in building, just find something to cover the table when not in use, like the size of a sheet of material, to slow down the air exchange rate on the water surface.

It’s hard to get water to phase change without some heat input.

Not as much evaporates off surface inside a climate controlled building even if the air is dry. Some yes, but not nearly as much as an ambient temp shop.
 
My plasmacam had metal skirts around the table frame and used a attic exhaust fan to suck out the smoke. You need something to cover up the empty space as you cut and remove pieces off the table. It also had a tray below the grates I could put water in, this helped if I cut alot at once or when it was hot. had to scrape the drops and slag out every so often. If you enclose the bottom, you'll want some kind of tray to catch parts that fall through. If your space is heated and cooled, you are just blowing the warm/cold air out and sucking cold/warm air in.
 
My plasmacam had metal skirts around the table frame and used a attic exhaust fan to suck out the smoke. You need something to cover up the empty space as you cut and remove pieces off the table. It also had a tray below the grates I could put water in, this helped if I cut alot at once or when it was hot. had to scrape the drops and slag out every so often. If you enclose the bottom, you'll want some kind of tray to catch parts that fall through. If your space is heated and cooled, you are just blowing the warm/cold air out and sucking cold/warm air in.
My table is a DHC Plasmacam.
So your tray didn't allow water to stay on your grate, and it helped? Being two sides they are tall.
@Mac5005. Heard of baking soda, not borax. Borax is probably cheaper.
I'm combating moisture a bit now. I need to get my gutters ran away from my building edges. It has a moisture barrier in the slab. My shear, break, table, and table saw have kept me busy fighting rust.
 
My table is a DHC Plasmacam.
So your tray didn't allow water to stay on your grate, and it helped? Being two sides they are tall.
@Mac5005. Heard of baking soda, not borax. Borax is probably cheaper.
I'm combating moisture a bit now. I need to get my gutters ran away from my building edges. It has a moisture barrier in the slab. My shear, break, table, and table saw have kept me busy fighting rust.

It just hangs a few inches below the bottom of the grates, pan is about 2" deep.
 
A non submerged grate makes me check up some on my thinking. Never liked the idea of the grate constantly in the muck. I know Mud's grate got packed with mess over time and does require some maintenance.

I wonder how a fan above pushing the lighter suspended flume down into the tray would help?
I see where @rockmafia you ran both. I assume the tray was narrower than the grid or the way you hung it made an air gap. I was sold on a submerged water tray at one time. Until I read some on cut quality and speed. The biggest factor was my memories of working on water stoves.

My initial plan was dropping the factory base down as a support and building slat/water tray in one shot. Doing this leaves no air gap. And a flooded grid.

Hmmmmm. Narrow tray suspended by all thread. Small air gap with draft. Best of both worlds and more complicated. Sounds like crap I dream up regularly. At least the complicated part.
 
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