Plumbers in W-S?

Caver Dave

Just holdin' it down here in BFV
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My wifes new business will require some additional plumbing work. Hoping to tie into some of the existing bathroom work (H/C water & drain) from the opposite side of the wall.

While I'm capable of doing it, I'll likely be busy doing the rest of the "upfit" and after 45 years have come to the conclusion I SUCK at sweating copper (along with bodywork & drywall finishing :( )...

So, anyone do plumbing work here in W-S and feel like doing the job?
 
sweating copper onto existing lines can be a real pain, especially if there's any residual water in them...
that being said, there are other options. One of the (licensed) plumbers at my last job recommended the 2 part copper epoxy for such an application, and while I was a bit leery, it has held up drip-free for 5+ years now...I've used it a few times since then problem-free as well...
but anyway, I can't recommend anyone in the area though...good luck...
 
two words.... Pex Pipe, look it up!
one word... illegal.:flipoff2: this is a commercial application. no pex allowed.

that said, it wouldn't matter that the existing lines are copper. you can get sweat to pex adapters.

One of the (licensed) plumbers at my last job recommended the 2 part copper epoxy
wow, i shudder the think about the people they give licenses to. i sure wouldn't be trusting the well being of my home/office to epoxy. there are several tricks, tools, etc. that can be used to keep water off your joint while you solder.
 
What about good ol' compression fittings? Not popular, but I've used them with good success on my copper pipes.
Only sweating involved comes from your own ugly mug when turning the wrench...
 
Residential in the basement/garage. :flipoff2:
ah, i just ASSumed he was talking about an office space since he mentioned business. disregard then, pex would be fine and the adapters i mentioned above would work on the transition.

RatLabGuy said:
What about good ol' compression fittings?
imo, they fall under the same category as the epoxy mentioned above. especially when you're talking about putting them on hard copper. i've heard of and personally seen too many leak or fail completely. to me, it's just not worth the little bit of time and effort saved compared to the risk of flooding your house. then there's also the risk of damage that can go un noticed until it's too late by a small drip/leak. trashed insulation, mold, rotten framing, and electrical issues are all of concern.
 
there are several tricks, tools, etc. that can be used to keep water off your joint while you solder.
do tell - what the average homeowner who can solder can do, not like some of the ridiculous freezing tools, etc...
That problem came up when I was replacing a main valve, and the city valve wouldn't shut off all the way, so there was a tiny drip that kept coming back to cool the pipe, wash away the flux, etc...
 
geez, i can't give away all my tricks... this is my livelihood.:lol:

for that situation, the best thing is really to just put a compression valve on it and tell the municipality to come fix their shit. solder a fresh valve in afterwards.

however, if you've got to get it done here's a few things that can be tried (in no particular order). obviously exact location, how the pipe runs, and just how bad the meter is leaking will affect these working and/or determine which one might work best.

1. go back down the pipe a foot or two and heat it well. this can boil out/evaporate enough water to make the joint. after you heat a spot down a ways, run the torch back up to the end of the pipe a few times at a medium pace... this helps push the boiling water out.

2. take a smaller length of pipe, a straw, or whatever and stick it down the pipe. hold your finger over the end to capture the water, and pull out as much as you can. you can also try rigging something up to a shop vac or air compressor to siphon/blow water out.

3. stuff something down the pipe to absorb the water like some bread, paper towel, piece of a sponge, etc. you can blow it out easily with the water pressure when you're done or hook it with a piece of wire or a coat hanger.

4. crack open the mechanical connection at the meter if you can get to it and let the water bleed off. a lot of meters even have boiler drains already tapped into them you can open. many have a check valve for preventing backflow that can be dismantled also. just be careful you don't lose the spring and check. some guys will tap in a saddle valve to get similar results like is used for an icemaker or dishwasher, but to me that's not really any better than using a compression fitting.

that's about your best "free" options and the ones that are the most successful. there are also tools called "jet swet" that are specifically made for doing this. they're a little expensive for a one time repair, but worth it if you think you'll be doing similar repairs in the future. i haven't priced them in a long while, but i think i payed about $200 or so for my full kit a few years ago. it does everything from 1/2"-2". however, i believe individual sizes are only $30-40 and they also sell smaller combination kits. all you really need for your "average" residential stuff is 1/2" and 3/4". a clever wheeler might even be able to fabricate his own similar tool with some all thread, nuts, washers, and a rubber bushing. there might even be some cheap china made knock off out there too that would be good enough for diy work.

there's also the freezing machines you mentioned, but they are definitely not in the budget for a homeowner at $2k+. plus, they're more for situations where you can't or don't want to cut the water off at all. for example, if you need to cut in a valve to isolate a certain area of an office building, but don't want to shut the whole building down. keeps all the people happy, keeps the flush valves happy, the health department, etc.

hope this helps, please pm your address for the bill.:flipoff2:
 
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