Porch roof

a_kelley

a_kelley

mechanical fixer
Joined
Jan 26, 2010
Location
Rutherfordton
OK so I'm building a covered roof on my existing 8x16 deck off our manufacturerd home. Planning on going in plane with the existing roof but would like to go with a flatter pitch to keep height, since the roof edge is about 92" off the deck surface. Installed plenty of metal roofing on barns in my prior occupation.. never any that are 1/12 though. Manufacturer recommends 2.5/12.. (height at inside would end up at 71", not counting the rafters!!) but since it's not a finished area, will it really matter? (I don't foresee any ponding unless it's snow or ice or leaves on the roof). My other thought was to start the roof just over the gutter, leaving it so if the roof were to back up it would go in the gutter, but would prefer the roofs to be tied in (existing is asphalt, thinking flash from under the starter over onto the metal roof). Anyone done anything similar, experiences? Oh and the closest tree is fifty feet away, so it's not too close. And it's not so high I couldn't blow it off once in awhile.
 
Use high temperature ice and water shield as underlayment if it's low pitch and slap the roof up and you should be fine. Just make sure you get high temp or you will have a mess when that metal heats up.
 
frankenyoter said:
Use high temperature ice and water shield as underlayment if it's low pitch and slap the roof up and you should be fine. Just make sure you get high temp or you will have a mess when that metal heats up.
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Right, but what's the consensus on tying it into the existing roof versus beginning over the gutter? My concern tying it in to the existing roof is it backing up and dumping under the flashing along the exterior wall..
 
Can't advise on tying in, but for a low pitch, I'd use a either a rubber roof, or wide roll roofing. I had a low pitch shingled back porch that never leaked, until I had the whole house re-roofed.
No idea what happened, but a contractor applied a rubber roof on the porch, to fix it. Later I built a storage building with a low pitch roof. Laid about 4 strips of the roll roofing, overlapping, & it Never leaked.That Tin is going to be pretty Loud, in the rain!
 
Part of why we want tin is because we plan to reroof the whole place with tin later and we lived at a place with a tin roof porch and we must be southern at heart since we loved s good afternoon thunder shower and sitting on the porch under the awning (12w x16l there) listening to it beat down. Good times in the dry listening to the rain. This will have OSB under the tin with felt so it'll be a little quieter. Not too concerned with leaking over the porch, just mostly to the house side, if it's tied in or just over the gutter..
 
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Poor picture due to lack of day light, but this is what I'm working with. I'd love to do a gable off the ridge, but that's not in the wallet.. friend suggested going off higher on the roof but still takes more material. Yeah, buy once, cry once.. just need to get like 3-5 years out of it to redo whole roof in tin. Tarring the tin to the asphalt is not out of the question.. was hoping there was more carpenters/roofers/home owners/mobile home installers with tips/experience.. i maybe counted the forum diversity card wider than it is. This isn't anything I'm going to point fingers and say well you said it would be OK., I'm doing it anyway just looking for tips or tricks. If you don't want your suggestion public, you can pm me or call or text me at 8286744O38. And I'm looking to finish it off by/on Monday, so rafters are going up Sunday, the handrails are what's on the saw horses. (I was a rough & finish carpenter years ago, so I'm just dusting off my tools.. been long enough I forgot why I like my pants legs to cover my boots!!)
 
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Tie it in on the roof not the gutter. It will give you a little more pitch and not look like a whapon. Ice and water beneath a metal transition. Stepflash along the side of the new rafter and have a kickout flashing where the gutter is.
 
I have a shed roof over my deck (stick built ranch home) that is about 1.5/12.

It is "short shingled" in that the shingles are on 3" lines insted of 5".
I flashed well where the roof of the house transitions and it has never leaked.
Snow, ice and hurricanes, never a drop. Tin could, depending on ridge height, get a drip through a fastener hole.
Underlayment choice will be key for you.
 
Decided to go with shingles. Almost ready to start shingles.

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Yeah, I didn't get to remove those rails on the porch yet, it is getting narrowed for a screen door in the future and it looks like a horses ass since it's all weathered and then the stairs will be too wide.. never ends d-:
 
RobMcBee said:
lol I would have fixed them steps first!
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I think some back woods nail bender put the stair stringers in backwards, they seem too steep/ wrong hand rail angle... Back porch stairs are the same way.. going to have to do a gable roof on the rear because it's 12' wide. Front was only 8'.

Got the rest of the plywood and fascia up. Roofing fun starts when this explorer tabs rebuild leaves.

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