Possible problems switching from SPOA to SPUA

1983Bronco

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Apr 10, 2005
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On your mom in Winston Salem NC
Bought a CJ-7 recently 76 model, its got a D44 D30 combo, PO did a spring over with 4" lift springs, too tall for my taste, so I was thinking about going back to a a sprung under setup. The perches appear to still be there. Any issues I should consider before doin the swap over. Thanks:beer:
 
Shock and driveshaft length come to mind

Figured I could shorten the shafts if neccesary, just curious if anyone else has ever done this, or should I just get some stock cj springs
 
Did the PO do anything to the steering with the SOA...anything you might have to undo?

You mention going to stock springs...would that be SOA or SUA? CJ-7's are pretty small SUA with stock springs. When people do SOA on CJ's they usually use YJ springs, since they are flatter than a stock CJ spring, and 2.5" wide up front.

I'm curious, what size tire was on there with 4" lift +SOA?
 
Personally I'd just get some stock springs...
:rolleyes:




Depends on what you plan tire wise...
30"-32" are doable on *decent* OEM leafs/AALs
33"-35" are doable on moderate lift springs (maybe some light trimming
36" + are just asking for issues with those axles

I'd just flip the center pins and spin everything over the leafs. Chances are the PO didn't change the shocks from OEM length (IOW, the spring plates end up within an inch of where they were) or modify the driveshafts...
 
Tire size right now is 36" and there is room for much more, looks pretty stupid really, I figure you could easily fit 34 or 35"s of I went back to SPUA. I "think" I could use the steering setup now or slightly modify it. I've seen the YJ spring deal(just wanted to try not and buy anything), this thing just looks f'ing retarded with the SPOA and the lift springs, oh yeah and about a 1" body lift
 
I'm trying to figure out exactly what you have...
76 CJ-7, should have had narrowtrack D30/AMC20 from the factory.
You have D44/D30 with SUA perches in place, and PO-installed SOA perches currently being used. Assuming the SUA perches are factory, this would mean your D44 is from an 86 CJ-7, that would be widetrack.
You might be fine running 4" SUA with the 36" tires on widetrack axles. I was running that same setup, minus the body lift, plus a lil fender trimming to fit 35 BFG ATs. When I added 36" SX's, that involved a whole lot of fender trimming.

And yeah, I bet it looks just dandy with all that lift on there now :lol:
 
I'm trying to figure out exactly what you have...
76 CJ-7, should have had narrowtrack D30/AMC20 from the factory.
You have D44/D30 with SUA perches in place, and PO-installed SOA perches currently being used. Assuming the SUA perches are factory, this would mean your D44 is from an 86 CJ-7, that would be widetrack.
You might be fine running 4" SUA with the 36" tires on widetrack axles. I was running that same setup, minus the body lift, plus a lil fender trimming to fit 35 BFG ATs. When I added 36" SX's, that involved a whole lot of fender trimming.
And yeah, I bet it looks just dandy with all that lift on there now :lol:


I think the rear is a narrowtrack, didnt some CJ's have 44 rears in 1975 and before, reason I say narrow track is because of the wheel spacers, yeah the jeep looks like one of those mud buggies that has all the running gear on the ground and the seats 12 feet in the air
 
i vote for leaving it spring over and changing springs to YJ ones...much better ride than stiff ass 4" lift springs, better flex.
 
I think the rear is a narrowtrack, didnt some CJ's have 44 rears in 1975 and before, reason I say narrow track is because of the wheel spacers, yeah the jeep looks like one of those mud buggies that has all the running gear on the ground and the seats 12 feet in the air
pre-76 CJ's did come with 44's in rear (and front too, optional I think). If that's what you have, check the spring perch width because pre-76 CJ rear leafs are 2" wide compared to the 2.5" wide used 76+.
 
pre-76 CJ's did come with 44's in rear (and front too, optional I think). If that's what you have, check the spring perch width because pre-76 CJ rear leafs are 2" wide compared to the 2.5" wide used 76+.

Yep they are 2"
 
pre-76 CJ's did come with 44's in rear (and front too, optional I think).
Rear, yes. Front, no.
First factory front 44 in a short wheelbase Jeep was the first Rubicon.

My vote would be to sell the 4" lift springs and pick up a set of stock ones.
 
OK I went with the SUA, changover went pretty good, no major issues puttin the leafs back under the axle. It has the perfect stance, and alot less vibration. The only problem is now I have death wobble at about 30-40mph. Any ideas, some of the TRE look worn, any ideas?
 
The worst wobbles I got on my CJ was whne the front wheel bearings loosened up. The CJ uses some goofy flat washer folded outward over the outer wheel bearing nut, not the best system.

Wait a minute, the worst I ever had was when I put lift shackles on the front. That took out too much caster and the CJ would dart all over the road. Do you have stock shackles on your CJ?

One other thing I have learned about CJ's is that mine steers much better with a steering box brace. It ties the PS box to the passenger side rail. I have left it off after working on it, and notice a huge differnece when I put it back on.
 
The worst wobbles I got on my CJ was whne the front wheel bearings loosened up. The CJ uses some goofy flat washer folded outward over the outer wheel bearing nut, not the best system.
Wait a minute, the worst I ever had was when I put lift shackles on the front. That took out too much caster and the CJ would dart all over the road. Do you have stock shackles on your CJ?
One other thing I have learned about CJ's is that mine steers much better with a steering box brace. It ties the PS box to the passenger side rail. I have left it off after working on it, and notice a huge differnece when I put it back on.

I made some shackles in the front to replace the bending old ones, but I put them at stock height, bushings look good, also it does has the steering box brace, has a good feel to it steering wise, just gets a bad case of the shakes around 35 mph. Ball joints felt OK, but there was a little bit of play in the drivers side wheel bearing, not alot but a little, passenger side seemed good. Do I need to shim the front axle or something or am I barking up the wrong tree.
 
I made some shackles in the front to replace the bending old ones, but I put them at stock height, bushings look good, also it does has the steering box brace, has a good feel to it steering wise, just gets a bad case of the shakes around 35 mph. Ball joints felt OK, but there was a little bit of play in the drivers side wheel bearing, not alot but a little, passenger side seemed good. Do I need to shim the front axle or something or am I barking up the wrong tree.

Also if I shim it, which way do I go to get more caster?
 
you shouldnt need to shim it... but if you are to get better caster, you will want to tip the pinion down...

have to checked to make sure it isnt the tires that are giving the shakes?
 
Swap the tires front to rear and see if it helps.\Then adjust the front wheel bearings. You can find lots of write ups from a quick Google search. If there is any play, they are worn or out of adjustment. A tiny amount of movement at the bearing translates into quite a bit at the end of a 36...
 
Ok did all the TRE's and tightened up the front wheel bearings, anyway I found the left rear axle is bent. So it was bunny hoppin down the road causing the bad vibes. Anybody got a driver's side rear axle shaft for a narrowtrack D44?
 
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