Preference: Auto or manual trans

Totally depends on application.

I actually like have an A/T for offroad. Yes it sucks power, can overheat and be more disastraous if it breaks on teh trail - however I love the fact that I can drive slowly w/o having to do the 3-legged dance. Also getting high gears so you can crawl is less of a problem.
However for towing and street use, 5-spd gives you more control and better reliability IMHO.
 
Auto, auto, and (properly built) auto. If you said sports car I would say stick. (unless it's a straight-line car). Anymore, the only excuse not to run an auto is to make yourself feel more manly or add more challenge.
 
I think theres your group of AT and MT people depending on what kind of wheeling they do. I would prefer a AT over a MT though just for the ease on the trail.
 
manual sm465
 
Auto

I drive a crapper straight drive all day. Auto is a Okay. Let me enjoy the trail, and focus on the course ahead.
 
I've

I've heard rumours about people experiencing less breakage of axles, joints, drive shafts when using an auto. It seems plausible.
 
atblis said:
I've heard rumours about people experiencing less breakage of axles, joints, drive shafts when using an auto. It seems plausible.
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Its kinda like you can run 4-5 hundred hp on a 7.5 inch 10 bolt in a camaro with an auto, but with 6 speeds on STOCK setups, drop that clutch once and BOOM, its broke.
 
dweymer said:
For a truck/suv, and a buggy what trans do you prefer and why?
Edit: off-road only
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I run manuals on everything, you gotta row the boat! nv45oo on the trail and richmond stuff on the street
I like the control and the better gear selection of the manuals.

I like Coke better than Pepsi too

bcammons21 said:
Its kinda like you can run 4-5 hundred hp on a 7.5 inch 10 bolt in a camaro with an auto,
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Until you figure out how to make it hook then, :eek:
 
I run a 465 on my trail rig and I've been a straigh drive wheeler all along, but like green ford said, autos are nice for when stopped on a hill. When I'm in a verticle pinch, nothing gets me more puckerd up than knowing I have to do the three pedal dance, and if I fuck up it could mean a flop.

Maybe hydrostatic is the way to go, like on a john deere skidder.

I tow with a 1/2 ton chev 4.3 5-speed. I've towed cross country and over to murphy, i just don't get there to fast. I would like to see someone take a 4.3 auto to crawford's camp.
 
Manual, it has nothing to do with feeling manly or the challenge of using one. I still think its fun and have a handfull of other reason why. They both have pros and cons on the trail. I'm not sure which would outweigh the other though.
 
I have a manual T-176 in my Heep. had 240K on it when it quit counting, I changed out the front bearing during one engine change.
Bottom line. if it gives issue, it's $125 worth of clutch, release bearing and Pressure plate. Unless you have a 3 speed auto and can rebuild it yourself, it's not gonna be as cheap to fix.

Enough gear, start in gear as Greg said. Up hill, it keeps going while sometimes a slush box will starve for ATF. Down hill, use gears as breaks, and on autos, but autos could build too much pressure and blow seals or front pump.

that's about it as to the whys for me
 
Manuals are fun for a general purpose off road rig.
But if you're gonna get serious into rockcrawling, and auto is *the* only way to go.
*- You can stop and then go again anywhere you want to (no third foot needed)
*- you have better control i.e. you can go at any speed you want without worrying about killing the engine
*- it's easier on all axle, driveline, and t-case parts.
*- you don't lose all momentum when you shift from 1st to second on a steep incline.

People who claim that autos starve for fluid on steep inclines, etc.. weren't seeing one that was setup right. I run mine about 1.5 quarts over, and it'll still pull when I have no oil pressure in the engine. BTDT.

CHip - build too much pressure and blow seals? What POS transmissions are you seeing? :lol:
 
Ok, I'm in simular situation. I have a 465 and a T 350. Choices, choices. I'm leaning toward the auto, which I was told it has been rebuilt.

Questions:
What are the tricks to building a good off road auto?
What mods. someone could DIY?
 
When I first bought my rig ('72 EB,302,3spd) the first thing I did was to swap for a NP435. With 4.56's I could I'd over most obstacles using the stock 30yr 302 with 90K. Basically what the engine lacked in torque, the granny made up for in mechanical advantage.

Then I build a 393W. The rig didn't need the granny except for when you wanted to creep. And on the street it didn't seem to put tho power to the pavement (drove like a dump truck). I built a C4 and totally change my rig. It drives much smoother on the trail and street with the new engine.

I believe every application and requirement are different different.
 
For rock crawling I like what Broncomania did with his EB; he rebuilt his C4 auto with a manual valve body. It has all the advantages of an auto, but with the ability to hold any gear as long as you want.
 
Rich said:
CHip - build too much pressure and blow seals? What POS transmissions are you seeing? :lol:
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One was a T350 and it blew front seals or pump, not sure which on atomic ridge at Windrock
The other was a C-4 and it did the same thing on a hill, (not sure of name) at Mnt city
And the 3rd was a tubo 400 in my Dads old Jeep truck, coming down 321 from Boone, in the snow, low range, driven by my little bro many years ago
 
Bishop said:
Questions:
What are the tricks to building a good off road auto?
What mods. someone could DIY?
Click to expand...

Any of the normal "beef up" parts are a good idea, and a GOOD cooler. IMO it can't be too big.

I like the auto even more with the manual valvebody, but that's certainly not necessary.

And, don't go with a 2000+rpm stall torque converter.. they build lots of heat.
 
When I installed my Vortec, I went with the 4L60E auto and welded the clutch pedal to the brake pedal so I have 1 big@ss brake pedal.
 
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