Pressure washer help

BigBody79

BigBody79

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2005
Location
Lumberton
I picked up a hot water pressure washer and need some help.

It's got a 2hp electric motor and a general t9961 pump.

Also has a kerosene fed blower flame thrower for the heater.

I have a few issues:

Not getting full pressure from the pump. I can turn the bypass valve all the way tight and it doesn't change anything. Yesterday, I had it up and running and it ran for a good long while. Today, i try and run it and I'm not getting any water out at all. Disconnect the hose near the pump and it is 100% blocked with something black and hard. Had to work at it with a screw driver to loosen it up. Right before i discovered the blockage i turn the bypass valve to see if a bit more pressure would clear the line. It created enough pressure to make the belt slip on the pulley. Get the line cleared and water flowing again. But, now there is little pressure again and the bypass valve doesn't make a difference. Any thoughts, things to check?

I had to rewire the pump motor to 220v to handle the amps. I kept popping the breaker on 120v motor is rated at 24amp on 120 and 12amp on 240.
The blower motor is 120v. I'd like to use just one drop cord if possible plugged into my 50amp welding(shop)/dryer(house) outlet. Both are 3 prong. Would like to have individual switches on each. Is that possible?

The heating element is a large canister that sits over the flame. It has 3/4" copper or steel pipe coiled inside. It is very heavy. But, there is a clog some where in the coil. How to i find it and clean it?

Question 1: Why am I not getting full pressure from pump?

Question 2: how can I wire a 220v & 120v motor on same drop cord?

Question 3: How do you clean the inside of a coiled tube?
 
I've run a few, never worked on them. Sounds like it sat & rusted in the piping. Now the rust or crud has broken loose & clogged the system. Probably will have to disassemble mots of it, & clean it out, or rod it out, like radiators. That coil is probably not copper, or Pure copper.
 
More than likely the hard black stuff is the washers that go around the pump cylinders in the pump usually haooeba when run with no water i can send you pics of disassembly of that pump if you like it's really easy tho to fix just pita bc you'll have to order washers! If you pull the brass head off of pump you'll probably see the washers missing hopefully it didn't do damage to pump cylinders
 
^ answer to question 1
 
Question 2 is you don't make a cord buy a generater for your machine that will run off the belt to supply your heater I can also send you pics of my setup for commercial pressure washing Tom for visual reference!
 
And 3 I've been washing for 5 years commercially and never cleaned inside of coil tube pressure alone should keep it cleaned out!
 
Hope this helps I can send you more info if ya need it I rebuild all our junk I usually replace pump washers once a year. It I run my machines harder than most probably would! 10 hour days not turning off machines during work day, 275 days a year!
 
Why do you think there is a clog? Sorry I missed that part! What model burner is it? Two I run are landa
 
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Inside of tank. I ran a clothes hanger into the inlet as far as it would go. This seemed to loosen up something. After putting some compressed air on it. There was a bunch of black nasty liquid that came out. Where it wasn't flowing at all before.
 
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The coil is not copper. Its very magnetic. So I'm going with steel. That's really a secondary issue to the pump not putting out pressure.

@C.Berry thanks for the input. Can you point me in the right direction for parts?
 
No problem in the pic of your pump the washers that I think are causing your issue are behind the circles in the head their a pita to get out be careful not to damage the housing it'll cost you a head I been there! Envirospec.com is where I get all my comet and general pump rebuild stuff I've also ordered just washers off of eBay I believe for the t9961 general there 30$ but that's not o rings and cylinder sleeves!! the black stuff doesn't seem like it'll cause you a issue if you can get pressure to clean it on out, your burner has good flame also so your good there the coil may need replaced mine is over 12 years old and it has some black stuff in it when I start back up after winter but usually doesn't affect pressure! Are you running a unloader to a tank?
 
Nice rig btw! I have a few general pumps for parts if you need anything in a pinch gimme a yell i can ship out to ya a lot of the general heads are swappable if you find used ones anywhere FYI! Also if your getting into cleaning houses or hell anything I suggest a chemical called limonine from envirospec it's a all. Natural acid with a activating agent It cleans black gutters to white with light brushing and I use it to degrease dump trucks also it has a bite to it and if you get it on your skin it will burn you 1st degree burns in high amounts but it's eco friendly and doesn't kill plants and animals! Good luck let me know if you get it going we got snow last night so my trailer is covered right now I'll snap pics of my generater setup soon as it melts off for ya
 
Oh and if you get serious into it if your running kerosene on burner convert it to diesel it seems to heat up much better and burns it slower than kerosene did for me!
 
T9961 Diagram.png


This is what I found for the T9961. It looks like part #17 is the round circle as seen in the above pictures. How does it come out?

That kit isn't cheap looks like it's 27.42 per cylinder from envriospec.

Should I replace the O-Rings as well (#9, #4)?

I know for sure that this pump was run dry at least once or twice. Partially my fault but it is what it is.

I do have a bypass valve on it, it that the same as an unloader?
 
I think this vid is the one I used on my first time rebuilding a general
 
On the pic of the video you can see the round piece in his right hand that's where the trouble washers are the others you just unbolt the ceramic rods but those shouldn't be your issue only ones I ever have to replace is #17 & 16 the o rings #9 & 4 if not ripped should be fine!
 
DB26C695-7518-4302-A8AB-188590B7272C-320-0000007536B1319F_tmp.jpg
This is the unloader I run with bypass it allows load to be taken off the rig while not pulling trigger. I use channel locks to get round piece out of head that's where the washers are! Hope this helps!
 
If using heat unloader is a must bc if bypass doesn't work you basically have a 350 degree bomb that will find a weak link! I've had one blow from the unloader with heat and it shot my unloader 50' ft in the air and shot steam into air 30'! The heaters are dangerous but well worth learning how they work bc boy do they make ya some money!'
 
Not sure what ya mean Bypass is before tank I have it coming out of pump then unloader before heat coil
 
IMG_0405.JPG
This is my oldest machine but it shows ya how I have unloader setup the tank is to the right in pic pressure relief valve and bypass all one part of this unloader
 
Took the pump head completely apart. Rust and tarnish on the inside. The tubes feeding the pump are pipe. They are all very rusty.

I'm not sure I'm thinking right on unloader vs bypass.

Took the packing out. Visable damage on the seals. Will need to order some more.
 
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