protecting wheel valve stems

RenegadeT

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I have aluminum wheels and the valve stems point outward, would like ideas on protecting them better so they don't rip out when rubbing obstacles, etc.

Found these flush mount mount valve stems, but the one review has me concerned.
Unfortunately the filling extension tube which must be threaded into the recessed valve is very inefficient at conveying air. Now I'm not sure how well this filling method may work on a wheel and tire combo with a smaller cavity, such as low profile tires perhaps. I will say my 33x12.50s took excrutiatingly long to fill. So much so, that I deemed the system impractical

aluminum weld-on rock rings? I checked Trail Ready and Copperhead Fab websites, didnt find anything. I'm sure I could contact any number of vendors though and get something quoted. Would 1/4" thick be about right?

any other ideas? I don't want to invest much, would like to use my existing wheels.
 
You mean they point outward as in, they are L-shaped and stick out from the wheel, or they are straight, and the mounting flange on teh wheel is such that they point a bit outward?
I'd think the easiest thing would be to get some that are L-shaped and twist them around facing inward. Could make filling difficult if you don't have the right chuck but the price-point would be right up your alley ;-). Bad a bit of gorilla glue on the side to keep them from turning back.

http://www.trendtimes.com/bent-valv...m=shopping+engine&utm_campaign=googleproducts
 
My valve stem mounts on a surface that is close to vertical, so the stem points outward. I already have short stems, just over 1", I don't think those bent ones would gain me much.

Had I not read that bad review on Amazon, I probably would've ordered the flush mounts and not even made this post...well, maybe until after I found out for myself that they suck to fill.
 
Ah.
So I have to wonder, then - if you put on rock rings, would they cover those valve stems to it wasn't accessible?
In my limited reading it seems most rings are intended for a certain wheel, not sure you can just grab any and weld on. But there may be some solution there.

May be easier/cheaper to just buy some different rims that have a better mounting place for the valve stem - e.g. more inside the wheel.

Or - buy those and just be patient ;-)
 
I was thinking the rock rings would need a cutout or hole to access the valve stem, but those bent stems would be the ticket.

Didnt think about welding a plug in, then drilling a new hole. Thanks, I'll have to see if there's room.
 
might be room...
003_2.jpg
 
Drill the new stem hole on the flat of the wheel as already discussed. I had to do this when I did my DIY beadlocks on steel wheels. Easy peasy. I just welded the old holes closed, but alum, not everyone has the ability to do, myself included. So for the existing holes, how about putting in a bolt (head out) with those bolt in valve stem gaskets that come in the kit to seal them up? I see no reason why this wouldn't work very well.
 
Don't try and fawk with welding those wheels. This is what I would suggest...

awww.alltiresupply.com_Merchant2_graphics_00000001_44_188.jpg


http://www.alltiresupply.com/p-44-188.html

Bolts in and is only .75" tall.

:edit: Or they might just break off.

They sell these too.

awww.alltiresupply.com_Merchant2_graphics_00000001_44_412.jpg


Are you filling up the tires often enough for the time it takes to matter?
That top pic is the "bolt in" valve I was talking about. Buy 8 of those things, redrill the valve holes on the inside flats of the wheels, use 4 of those for the valves and use the other 4 for their gaskets. Take the gaskets and use bolts to plug the outer, now unused stem holes. Drill the new holes in the wheels 180 degrees from the old holes and you might not even mess up the wheel balance by much.
 
I don't fill the tires too often, the flush mounts might work, just wanted to see what alternatives are out there.
A few potential problems I see with drilling a new hole might be the thickness of the aluminum and maybe a draft angle on the surface. The existing hole is counterbored, I guess for 2 reasons, to provide a flat surfce for the valve stem to seal on, and also a "standard" thickness to work with tpyical rubber stems.
Found this system, looks interesting...Surevalve
 
I had to re-drill new holes for my weld on beadlocks(steel) if thickness is an issue you may be able to redrill on the inside of the wheel??
 
Tony,
The flush mount ones have one major draw back as far as I can tell.
If the threads get damaged you can't screw the extension on.
 
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