Pulled out the diff, now it won't turn

VortecJeep

VortecJeep

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Joined
Aug 24, 2005
Location
Concord, NC
Lock-Rite wasn't engaging properly, so I pulled the carrier out and replaced the springs and pins in the locker. Now when I put put the carrier back in and get the bearing cap bolts tight (but not torqued), it will not turn. What the heck have I done wrong?! I'm wondering if I got the bearing caps on the wrong side?
By the way, it is a High Pinion Dana 44 front axle from a 78 Bronco, 4.88 gears, Lock-Rite.
 
The bearing caps should be stamped on that axle. Match up the markings.

Not sure what you could have done wrong unless the carrier is not in there all the way and the ring and pinion are binding in some way. Either that or you got something behind the ring gear if you pulled it off the carrier.
 
Granny sees it... but, duh... zubz has about got it covered. I'm close enough to you if you don't get it figured out... let me know. :)
 
Bring it by the shop Matthew and I'll check it out. I'd say Andy is right the locker shouldn't be your issue, more than likely its an issue with the ring and pinion. I'm assuming you're trying to turn it without the axle shafts in? Did you have the ring gear off the carrier while it was out? If not something behind the ring gear it sounds like maybe it's shimmed wrong. Can you turn the pinion by hand but not the ring gear? Make sure the bearing caps are all the way tight so that the carrier is completely seated. If they feel tight but aren't you may not have the carrier seated all the way and its cocked a little.
 
MarsFab said:
Bring it by the shop Matthew and I'll check it out. I'd say Andy is right the locker shouldn't be your issue, more than likely its an issue with the ring and pinion. I'm assuming you're trying to turn it without the axle shafts in? Did you have the ring gear off the carrier while it was out? If not something behind the ring gear it sounds like maybe it's shimmed wrong. Can you turn the pinion by hand but not the ring gear? Make sure the bearing caps are all the way tight so that the carrier is completely seated. If they feel tight but aren't you may not have the carrier seated all the way and its cocked a little.
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The axle shafts are not in. I had to take the ring gear off to take the locker out to swap springs and pins, so maybe I didn't get the ring gear all the way on the carrier. I don't think its a problem with the locker. I matched up the match marks with the bearing caps and when I tighten the bolts, the carrier won't turn. I haven't tried completely torquing them. When I pulled it out I wasn't careful enough and all the shims fell out, so I was going off memory as to what shims goes on which side, maybe my memory on the shims was wrong.
 
If you did over shim it and way over reduce the back lash it definately wont turn. At least external shims are easy. If your unsure pull the shims and rebolt without shims just enough to seat it. Take a small prying tool and don't gouge the machined surfaces and pry the carier away from the pinion. If it turns you definately found the issue. Next take the bearing caps off and leave the carrier in (easier when its on a bench). Replace shims and try swapping them until you get a small amount of back lash. I prefer a dail indicator and use my randy's pinion book for the spec. After you get the backlash take the remaining shims (you should have small ones you cant put in with out alot of effort) and divide them in half. This sets the preload on the carrier. Carefully pull out the thickest shim you can and put the thin (left over) ones in first. Take a non marring drift ( I have a shim driving tool) and drive the thick shim back in without folding or disrupting the thinner flimsy ones. Repeat on the other side to preload the other side. This work really well when you don't on a carrier spreader. Randy's actually prefers alot of preload on the carrier and states he's never seen a failure due to over preloading the carrier bearings. I always get my backlash and pattern down and then add equal shims to each side to preload new bearings.
 
THANK YOU EVERYONE! I had the shims on the wrong sides. Went out this morning and swapped them and it is perfect.

This is me doing my happy dance :bounce:
 
I am interested why the shims fell out.............a Bronco HP 44 should shim behind the carrier bearings, not outside them. Did you change the carrier bearings when you had it out?

Glad you worked it out.
 
zubz said:
I am interested why the shims fell out.............a Bronco HP 44 should shim behind the carrier bearings, not outside them. Did you change the carrier bearings when you had it out?

Glad you worked it out.
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Really? I didn't set up the 4.56 gears originally (a vendor that I don't think is around anymore did a few years ago), but the shims that were in it when I originally installed the locker in December were on the outside of the carrier bearings. Haven't had any issues out of the gears or bearings and didn't see any signs of unusual wear...Do you think it could be a problem?
 
Doubt it will be a problem, just not sure why they are there. D44 stuff did not start shimming outside the bearing regularly (from what I have seen) until somewhere around 2003 in the TJ era. I haven't ever seen an old D44 or HP44 that shimmed outside the carrier unless there was an issue with the housing (like a carrier race severely spun in the housing) and it had to have a new race seat machined (something we do to fix housings sometimes). Then you would need to have the outside shims similar to the new axles to make up the difference.

Should be fine, just was interested in why it was like that......
 
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