Question for anyone anyone that works with wood

Close enough, just looking for a ballpark. Based on the 62 Rockwell hardness they list, they are probably some type of cobalt alloy bimetal tool steel. Woodmizer has a similar one (67 Rockwell), and they are $41/ea for my 13'2" blades.

I think the ripper 37 prices have gone up recently since they are out of stock. I think they may be closer to $32 each now.

Since buying this mill, I’m anxious to try out each of the different blades and performance. I have some woodlands blades, some from Cooks And Jerry’s, and the ripper 37. I’ve heard mixed reviews on the ripper 37, so I’m curious what all the hype has been.
 
Close enough, just looking for a ballpark. Based on the 62 Rockwell hardness they list, they are probably some type of cobalt alloy bimetal tool steel. Woodmizer has a similar one (67 Rockwell), and they are $41/ea for my 13'2" blades.

I think the ripper 37 prices have gone up recently since they are out of stock. I think they may be closer to $32 each now.

Since buying this mill, I’m anxious to try out each of the different blades and performance. I have some woodlands blades, some from Cooks And Jerry’s, and the ripper 37. I’ve heard mixed reviews on the ripper 37, so I’m curious what all the hype has been.
Seems at some point there could be a cost savings buying a bulk roll, cut to length, and weld?
 
Seems at some point there could be a cost savings buying a bulk roll, cut to length, and weld?
Certainly, if you're going through hundreds of blades a year it probably starts to make sense. But in order to do it properly, you have to buy blade stock (assume 50% of the cost is material), measure, shear, grind to length, clamp, weld, grind smooth, and anneal. That takes time and equipment, so even if I'm doing 50 blades a year at a cost of $20 instead of $40, I'm only saving $1000, and now I have many hours and many dollars invested in time and equipment. And that's for the high dollar bimetal blades. I run the $15-20 blades because most blades usually get killed by a rock or nail instead of flat out wear. So in that case, the savings would be even less. You have to anneal the blades properly because of the constant flex every rotation (they will break if too brittle), and you have to weld it straight and smooth to avoid uneven tension and poor cuts.
 
You have to anneal the blades properly because of the constant flex every rotation (they will break if too brittle), and you have to weld it straight and smooth to avoid uneven tension and poor cuts.
I assumed it wasn't that involved...
Was thinking of the old (OK, ancient) metal cutting bandsaw we had in the plant that included provisions for making blades: square first end, measure, cut second end, insert into clamp, punch the "weld" button, remove from clamp, and clean-up to remove weld crown... less than 5 minutes (first time took me 20 :flipoff2:). IIRC, that was Morse(?) bi-metal stock and at the time (late '80s), a 100' of stock was 1/5th the cost of 50' worth of pre-made blades...
 
The only way I see that it would make sense is if A. you were milling full time, or B. making them and selling them, which opens another can of worms being that you'd have to stock several different widths of blade material.

What I see now is if a man set himself up to sharpen blades for those who do have a mill and want to get as big of a bang for their buck out of all the new blades they have bought.
 
I assumed it wasn't that involved...
Was thinking of the old (OK, ancient) metal cutting bandsaw we had in the plant that included provisions for making blades: square first end, measure, cut second end, insert into clamp, punch the "weld" button, remove from clamp, and clean-up to remove weld crown... less than 5 minutes (first time took me 20 :flipoff2:). IIRC, that was Morse(?) bi-metal stock and at the time (late '80s), a 100' of stock was 1/5th the cost of 50' worth of pre-made blades...
Its that simple just short of the annealing. All this talk I have been lightly researching a band welder. It seems after the i inch wide threshold they go up a good bit. The other thing is a lot of bulk vendor stock is in short supply. My great uncle made blades, at 14-15 years old I was too helping for cheap.
 
Many Sawyer’s have tried welding broken blades back together. Most, if not all, give up and buy blades, even the guys going through hundreds a year. It’s just not worth the time. Many of those guys are also not sharpening their own blades. They understand their time is best spend making $ by sawing and keeping that equipment running and not standing around spending hours sharpening blades.

And, sharpening is just one aspect of the process. You also have to set the tooth angle for clean and consistent cuts with a kerf that remains consistent with your scale.
And performance and productivity isn’t lineal. You may get 1,000 bd ft from a mew blade, but after sharpening and adjusting the foot set, you may only get 600-800, and less and less every time it’s sharpened. And remember, that blade may break at any time too, so your productivity and bd ft per blade goes to shit then.

Good sharpening equipment is not cheap. I’d have to mill a lot of lumber to save a notable amount of $ on my own resharp equipment that’s reliable.
 
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